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jmace
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Everything posted by jmace
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Labour day weekend: Large VOC party @ Wedgemount
jmace replied to brambo's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Labour Day Weekend = Wet -
I saw that very cool I couldnt find if the new one is out yet though..any idea?
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Trip: Dolomites - Many Date: 7/20/2007 Trip Report: Sepetember of last year my climbing parnter Toby moved to London, over the winter we hatched a plan to meet up and climb in the Italian Alps: The Dolomites. This trip turned out to be one of the best climbing trips I have ever done. The climbing, the scenery and the hut system blew my mind away. The meals and full bar at every hut are just amazing, the people friendly and accomodating, none of the stereo types I heard played out. The gear is always adequate the popular routes are solid and world class. The hardest thing about climbing in the Dolomites is route finding, the rock is always vertical to overhanging and the terrain ambiguous. Getting lost on the big faces is a given and happens to even the most seasoned locals. We climbed at three area's over 12 days and managed 60 pitches over 6 routes, two we bailed from due to weather. We Climbed in the Civetta region, the Tre Cima and out of remote and quiet Boscanero hut. Here is my flikr account if you want to check some photo's, there not in any order youll just have to poke around, ive added some text to them Photo's I then met a close friend who has been living in barcelona and we rode his Africa Twin 750cc and my rented 2007 BMW ST 800cc through 1100 km of the French and Spanish Pyrenees. Amazing terrain and mountians in that area. Photos Biking Of course I spent a week hitting on French and Italian girls on the topless Mediterranean beaches but those photos arent really work safe. Just imagine g strings, topless girls, beer vendors and Moroccans selling..Moroccan If you plan on going give me a shout as I found it difficult in finding all the information but I have a good handle on it now Cheers Trip of a life time
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Hey Matt I have been trying to get access to this archived information for just over a year now..they are Enviroment Canada weather stations and you can get all the info you need but you have to pay for it..just like any archived weather data..it pays to have friends in EC but sometimes its difficult to get the info immediately Hydro runs the other stations and I have made headway there, I have many stations and locations that are sort of public and I have past data for them about a weeks worth. The CAA has or should have access to all the info as they have a relationship with EC You may have noticed in the ice section that I was recording the hourly observations from sites that I wanted to see, duffey,downtown,cayoosh and posting them.. I geuss you mean this site and thought it was MOT but look at the adress http://www.weatheroffice.pyr.ec.gc.ca/icbctravelalert/dtables_e.html http://www.weatheroffice.pyr.ec.gc.ca/rwisfeed/26224_e.htm Basically you just have to be religious about loading up the site each day and getting an idea of the trend IF you have any questions just post them here and ill try and answer them or get answers for you cheers Jesse
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ive been in the dolomites for the last two weeks and id say if you dont like clipping ring pitons youd be in mighty big trouble over here...hahaha no one seems to be dying so maybe you guys are just a tad jaded with the bomber gear on most of our routes..ive done 20 pitch routes over here on only pitons even hanging belays with just one ring piton shimmed in with wood with my ass blowin in the wind 600m above the deck..suck it up boys by the way the climbing here is un fuckin beleivably rad!! ill write a tr at the end of the month when im back off to the pyrenees now adios jesse
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Rotting beef..shit ya it was bad anyways i did the settler from van in a day and walked from the gate so suck it up the fallers shut the machines down and let me walk by you should have no problem good luck
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Ken Nichols convicted and fined for bolt chopping
jmace replied to billcoe's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Fuck ya!!! -
when your 70 those memories are priceless as opposed to im so glad I didnt hit that dirty ass..ya right
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Sounds like you caught onegina (one-Gine-A) with that line..ouch and so young
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Being serious...I have old screws, found screws..id just tossem when I was done on the glacier portion..
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Slesse Glacier has not slid, I would gamble it wont this year, thats ok, its been crappy weather here for all of June and now looking like the last half of July. 3rd week of August is a great time frame to shoot for and if the glacier crossing is not to your liking then there are many routes and mountains off the same road or nearby to aim for E ridges of Rexford, the Nesakwatch spires,the North Rib of Slesse. You could actually climb the E ridges of Rexford carry over then bivy below the spires and climb to your hearts content then come down to your vehicle right past the trail head to slesse..a worthy alternative! With the recent Slesse accident you may want to consider bringing a throw away screw or two "just in case" then toss it once across to minimize weight cheers Have Fun it should be a worthy trip up here
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Jeez I sure need a whole lot less stuff for the 43 pitch route on the NW face of the Civetta..and the 20 odd pitch cima grande.. A set of nuts is recommended and im pretty sure they are big walls..im off in two days wooo fuckn hoo
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I belive the bridge has been pulled once off the hurley.I dont have the book so Icant look up the road on bivouac. But its a much longer walk if your thinking about the ice route
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Coke's too expensive to become a problem..if your doin coke you got the loot so its not a problem...its them crack and meth heads that are the problem.
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The weather is deteriorating rapidly here for the weekend...you can see EC has already changed the forecast for some places on the outer coast...if these trends continue in the models we will see the forecasts change for the mainland soon. Sunday looks the worst http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-17_metric_e.html Cheers Jesse
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The weather is deterioarting rapidly here for the weekend...you can see EC has already changed the forecast for some places on the outer coast...if these trends continue in the models we will see the forecasts change for the mainland soon http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-17_metric_e.html Cheers Jesse
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Saw this movie on Friday and I had no idea..I just thought you guys paid a couple hundred bucks a month and then you got medical. I always figured the complaining was the 200$ you had to cough up not that the coverage was spoty and you had to pay. I geuss as I walk to the clinic by my house to get some free meds for my upcoming trip ill count myself very lucky..and I was kinda pissed that I had to cough up 17$ for 2 weeks of no deductible insurance for my trip, even got mad at my work cause they have free travel insurance but not for mountaineering. I know its not perfect here but I would really hate to worry about an ambulance ride or sumthing. Cheers
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5 Day Trend..The Region Will Remain Under The Influence Of The Ridge Of High Pressure Into The Weekend Resulting In Continued Dry Sunny Weather. However The Ridge Will Move Slowly Eastward Bringing In Slightly Cooler Temperatures By The Weekend. Thursday.. Sunny. Freezing Level 4800 Metres. Friday.. Sunny. Freezing Level 5000 Metres. Saturday.. Sunny. Freezing Level 4400 Metres. Copyright 2007 Environment Canada. Lots of snow up high be wary this weekend, this should help clean it up a tad.
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Cool, id like to see that up close can you buy it here..?
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1) drew is gone 100% 2) drew just posted that the route is not in condition http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/699237/page/1/fpart/2 Keep in mind that most rock routes and especially N face rock routes in bc backcountry are still very snowy.
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Keep in mind conditions in the hills are more like early June than July and the Northern aspects are generally worse. May want a couple more weeks of warm weather as this is the first of any good warm weather we have had cheers J
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Hate generalize...but I do and I'm right Love the photo
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They just say that cause they dont want to "sound" dirty.. whats the quote "being a girl means you just have to look innocent not be innocent.." 8D
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The guy was smokin some weed and drivin his car...what's the problem?