jmace
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Everything posted by jmace
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	Rotting beef..shit ya it was bad anyways i did the settler from van in a day and walked from the gate so suck it up the fallers shut the machines down and let me walk by you should have no problem good luck
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Ken Nichols convicted and fined for bolt chopping
jmace replied to billcoe's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Fuck ya!!! - 
	when your 70 those memories are priceless as opposed to im so glad I didnt hit that dirty ass..ya right
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	Sounds like you caught onegina (one-Gine-A) with that line..ouch and so young
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	Being serious...I have old screws, found screws..id just tossem when I was done on the glacier portion..
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	Slesse Glacier has not slid, I would gamble it wont this year, thats ok, its been crappy weather here for all of June and now looking like the last half of July. 3rd week of August is a great time frame to shoot for and if the glacier crossing is not to your liking then there are many routes and mountains off the same road or nearby to aim for E ridges of Rexford, the Nesakwatch spires,the North Rib of Slesse. You could actually climb the E ridges of Rexford carry over then bivy below the spires and climb to your hearts content then come down to your vehicle right past the trail head to slesse..a worthy alternative! With the recent Slesse accident you may want to consider bringing a throw away screw or two "just in case" then toss it once across to minimize weight cheers Have Fun it should be a worthy trip up here
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	Jeez I sure need a whole lot less stuff for the 43 pitch route on the NW face of the Civetta..and the 20 odd pitch cima grande.. A set of nuts is recommended and im pretty sure they are big walls..im off in two days wooo fuckn hoo
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	I belive the bridge has been pulled once off the hurley.I dont have the book so Icant look up the road on bivouac. But its a much longer walk if your thinking about the ice route
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	Coke's too expensive to become a problem..if your doin coke you got the loot so its not a problem...its them crack and meth heads that are the problem.
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	The weather is deteriorating rapidly here for the weekend...you can see EC has already changed the forecast for some places on the outer coast...if these trends continue in the models we will see the forecasts change for the mainland soon. Sunday looks the worst http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-17_metric_e.html Cheers Jesse
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	The weather is deterioarting rapidly here for the weekend...you can see EC has already changed the forecast for some places on the outer coast...if these trends continue in the models we will see the forecasts change for the mainland soon http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-17_metric_e.html Cheers Jesse
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	Saw this movie on Friday and I had no idea..I just thought you guys paid a couple hundred bucks a month and then you got medical. I always figured the complaining was the 200$ you had to cough up not that the coverage was spoty and you had to pay. I geuss as I walk to the clinic by my house to get some free meds for my upcoming trip ill count myself very lucky..and I was kinda pissed that I had to cough up 17$ for 2 weeks of no deductible insurance for my trip, even got mad at my work cause they have free travel insurance but not for mountaineering. I know its not perfect here but I would really hate to worry about an ambulance ride or sumthing. Cheers
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	5 Day Trend..The Region Will Remain Under The Influence Of The Ridge Of High Pressure Into The Weekend Resulting In Continued Dry Sunny Weather. However The Ridge Will Move Slowly Eastward Bringing In Slightly Cooler Temperatures By The Weekend. Thursday.. Sunny. Freezing Level 4800 Metres. Friday.. Sunny. Freezing Level 5000 Metres. Saturday.. Sunny. Freezing Level 4400 Metres. Copyright 2007 Environment Canada. Lots of snow up high be wary this weekend, this should help clean it up a tad.
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	Cool, id like to see that up close can you buy it here..?
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	1) drew is gone 100% 2) drew just posted that the route is not in condition http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/699237/page/1/fpart/2 Keep in mind that most rock routes and especially N face rock routes in bc backcountry are still very snowy.
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	Keep in mind conditions in the hills are more like early June than July and the Northern aspects are generally worse. May want a couple more weeks of warm weather as this is the first of any good warm weather we have had cheers J
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	Hate generalize...but I do and I'm right Love the photo
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	They just say that cause they dont want to "sound" dirty.. whats the quote "being a girl means you just have to look innocent not be innocent.." 8D
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	The guy was smokin some weed and drivin his car...what's the problem?
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	Trying to get stemalot stoned at the bivy...hahaha always fun
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	Dont you think you should have called the Gene police so they could have taken them out so they didnt pro-create and dilute the gene pool. Some one should take the whole family out before they breed too much
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	Besides Pitch has to do with sound
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	No you pitch a tent with your stiffie...but you dont pitch your stiffie. This implies that there are shades of dark which there are not howerver there is pitch black which would be the correct way of using that term to describe the type of black
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The White Dyke on Edge Peak - Golden Ears park??
jmace replied to pazzo 's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Try this again Ya ive climbed it a couple of times, once going back via golden ears once via edge/blanshard which is in bivouac. Ill describe the approach and the descent via golden ears Head in to the reasonably dry creek bed at alder flats and continue up it until you want to go left and the creek continues straight on. Heading out of the creek on a now steeper bank move into the bush, you may be able to link small scree patches to minimize the bush but there will be times you have to use a little force to continue onwards. Fill your water up at the creek as this is the last place. Just angle yourslef towards the snow below the route..its nice when the snow reaches the rock so you can avoid ascending dangerous mud to the base. The first little bit on the route is the hardest climbing in the upper class 4 range then it angles off and you just meander up the slabs until it stops, here you can head to edge. IF you want go home via Golden Ears then walk back down the slabs heading skiers left until you reach a patch of trees atop of a small wet mossy gulley, down climbing would be doable but rapping is easier..you could avoid rapping by continuing further down unitl you could reach the scree gulley you are trying to rap into from above. rap form trees, possible slings, once off the rap head skiers left immediately and go up and over a small rock "ridge" and then head towards Golden Ears and the scree field, traverse this to the hut and the trail home. Good Luck, its one of my favourite time in the hills!! 
