corvallisclimb

funny you mention it thats in the plans for the next month or so, then possibly abraxas.

gave the monkey some love... will return to work on last bolt ladder pitch when its not raining

Yes, but I belive your thinking of Lankin dome? Some awsome mulit pitch slab routes. Great dritbagging/camping out there too. Lankin Dome: Bigger images on page 3 of my gallery. We did a route with the odd rating of 5.7+R, and I got to lead every pitch, one of the best routes I've ever done. No more than 4 bolts a pitch, but perfect granite! I found the sweet water rocks to be more moderate, and a better place to hang out than wild iris.

if you make it to wild iris, why not drive another 50 miles to the sweet water rocks. some great easy granite dome routes as well as some harder stuff. one of the cooler places iver climbed in the usa.

ya i think we will set up a live streaming web feed of what ever goes down, mabey helmet cam too. so you can climb with us from the comfort of your own home. let me know when life (marrige, kids, work all that good stuff) stops holding you back, well climb some bolted crack n stuff.

any one up for smith this week? usually i like climbing obscure routes, aid, or bolting. weathers been great and should stay that way for the most part. any day works for me.

Hanger farm!!! now where is that?

And mods mabey you could make this a sticky since its kidna an ongoing project?

haha no! Pete missed being my partner for the weekend by 15 min.

Not exactly sure how he fell. To me it was perfect frozen snow, mabey coulda been a little softer for kicking steps at that point. I was up and left of him so I didnt exactly see what happend. But I think we where above all the avi debris, but mabey there was one frozen chunk still that he missteped or something, caught a crampon, who knows! How do all those other people fall? We had just put on crampons and helmets mabey 300ft below where it steepend to 45/50 degrees. And both where useing just one technical tool. It appeared as if he tryed to arrest, but lost his axe mabey 50 feet into the fall. Not sure if he had his leash on or not. He then broke a crampon, probably where he sprained his ankle. We where about 50 feet below the ice step where there was small ledge where we where going to pull the rope out.

Usually as I understand its saftey/liability reasons. It sounds like most rescues take place in more popular areas, where the SAR folks generally know the area. I guess this wasnt the case this time.

Oregons rock climbing routes sport many old rusty bolts in need of replacement. With a generous a donation from ASCA I was given many a bolts do do some replacement work. I figured I would start a thread to let people know whats been replaced, and for people to shout out what they think should be replaced. Most bolts at smith are realaced with 1/2x3.75 or 1/2x3.25 RAWL 5 peice. In the menagerie or areas where hand drilled, I use 3/8x2.25 RAWL 5 peice. All with Fixe hangers, some with rap rings where needed. Post up or PM me if you want to help out and go climb some stuff! Smith Rock State Park: Monkey Face - East Face 2 anchor bolts atop P2 w/ Jim Anglin 2/10/07 Picnic Lunch Wall - Original Picnic Lunch Wall aid route: 2 anchor bolts below the roof on p4 w/ Jim Anglin & Cody Peterson Jan 07 Mesa Verde Wall - Palo Verde: 4 anchor bolts on top of the 4th class ledge Jan 07 Staender Ridge - Bettes Needle: 4 rap anchors w/ Cathrine Power Oct 06 Staender Ridge - The Dinosuar: 2 anchor bolts w/ Jake Hector Oct 06 Menagere Wilderness: Panorama Point - Essential Reality: 4 lead bolts on P1 w/ Jim Anglin Nov 06 North Rabbit Ear - Dod Route: Most lead and anchor bolts done by KB 2006 South Rabbit Ear - Bauman Route: Most lead and all anchor bolts done by KB 2006 Turkey Monster - Dod Route: 1 belay bolt atop P2 w/ Nick Dolceck Apr 05 Wolf Rock: Barad-Dur: Many lead and anchor bolts done by CF & JR Fall '06 Note: Not all of these where replaced with ASCA hardware some where done with personal bolts.

Oh and my partner is doing okay, he spent two nights in the hospital to make sure his lung re-inflated. But now is back home and just extremely sore. Thanks for your kind words!

Ya I'm a trained EMT though I've never worked as one, that I felt definatly helped me that day. I had given him all of my extra clothes and food before I left. I was most worried about him as it was getting closer to dark, knowing his personality hes the last one to want a rescue, luckly he stayed put. He was probably sitting there for 6 or so hours by him self, with no clue as to what I was doing!

On Sunday Jan 28th, I was attempting the North Face of Mount Kent, when my partner fell about 200ft down the 45/50 degree slope/rough avi debris at the base of the north face. Resulting in a few cracked ribs, collapsed lung, sprained ankle, and a dislocated shoulder. I quickly assessed the situation and kinda realized at that point he would probably need a rescue. Not having cellphones with us, I had to run out to the car at McClellen Butte TH to call the sherrifs. Once SAR arrived they figured the best approach would be from EX 38 so we drove up EX 38 to the Iron Horse Trail(?) where the command would be. Soon enough there where 50 or so people running around and all sorts of SAR support vehicals. Wow I didnt expect all of this. So after talking with the first group of SAR people, they decided it would be best if I led them back there to my partner(usually they said they would never do that), because no one really knew where to go, being that there are no trails back to Mount Kent and such. So we saddled up and waited for a SAR vehical that would take us back up the road as far as we could go. The jeep finally arrived and barley got us anywhere, so we started hiking. We reached my friend right as the sun was setting. I had made the first call at about 1pm. Quickly got him into a litter and by that time more SAR folks had shown up, some snowmobiles had arrived for transport up the road. It took about 2 more hours to get him from the basin at the base of Mount Kent, to the road where the snow cat was waiting. We loaded in the snowcat and cruised down the road to where the command had been set up. He was then transported to another SAR vehical and taken down the road to a waiting ambulance, this time being about 8:30pm. It was an incredible day for me, I'm usually very quiet but I wound up talking to a lot of people that day. Its always intresting when 50 people know your name and you don't know anyones. I want to express my thank you to Seattle Mountain Rescuse, Tacoma Mountain Rescue, King County Search and Rescue, Enumclaw Search and Rescue, King County Sherrifs Dept, and any one else that was involved that day. With out the help of all those non paid and paid individuals, my day would have been a lot different. The dedication of those involved really showed that day. I am extremely greatful to have people like that out there waiting to help. Its an incredible feeling knowing that. So again thank you all! So with all that said the conditions on the North Face of Mount Kent looked perfect, we where aiming for the middle gully, Dallas Kolke 1994 route I guess. Looked to be in prime conditions, the begining looked like a fat WI2/3 step to some more WI then the rest was hidden. So I suggest any one trying to get off the beaten path check it out. Also staying west of alice creek during the approach seems like the better way to go.

good eye! I was so captivated with the south west face, I forgot you could even look at at the SE face... What a rad shot!

I'd chop it, if its your route. You aided and freed with out bolts, thats proud, leave it that way!

There is a good pitch at index called skin graph or something its on the right side of the LTW its a steep arch to a rivet ladder. Its a Blair Williams route, Im not sure where it goes after the rivets thats the only part I've done. But you get to nail, so it will prepare you for the worst aid on zodiac.

do you use spurs or not? non the less wicked send dude!

i think there is a party some where on RNWF of HD, then some bags hanging somewhere on the tripple direct traverse

hanks timmy, do you remeber the name of the book you had? id like to pick up a copy if its still availible. where those the last of the easily accessable caves? the odd thing about the cave that we went to was tho it was gated off there was still a sign that noted the seasonal closure. i could probably show you to the dug out on if your ever intrested, or im sure my friend could get me directions if youd like.

i went to one cave out on china hat i belive. no trails to it or anything, mabey a half mile to a mile from the road but it was gated like that. people had dug their way under it tho. the cave was extremely awsome, probably went on for a mile or so then ended with an extremely narrow passage that left 2 of the larger of our group unable to make it as far as my self and the leader. really cool cave, wish i knew the name of it. anyone know?

nice job but this is a tough one. the nose, although a bit contrived, is much more classic in my opinion. then again, the bottom of the nose does not compare to 'free blast'... A bit contrived?? Should the route be a continuous, 3,000' crack to the top to be legit? I didnt think the first route up el cap was considerd contrived... mabey you where thinking of the real nose wich might be considerd that

nice pictures, really makes me want to visit next time i'm down that way.

I guess we will never know. It was said in this thread earlier. Brooke Sandahl and Alan Watts sometime during the 90's