corvallisclimb

I've done a couple aid pitches and what Joseph posested is by far the best advice ever. Aid climbing is pretty fucking simple, I don't get why some people think there is some huge learning curve. Most of the systems you suss out are what works best for you. I still just use regular daisys with a fifi while it seems 90% of guys these days do that whole adjustble thing. I'm not going to change, but I'm not going to reccomend either. Its for YOU to figure out. You like 2, 3 or 4 aiders etc etc. Get some gear together, don't fuck around and I'm sure you will figure it out in no time. Summitchaser and rocketparrot you guys definatly need to refine your skills and seriously do need to look at FOH or How to climb BWs to work on your basic aid system. Like most people pointed out is totally fucked and summitchasers excuses as to why just dont jive. My how to aid climb steps 1. Figure out your basic aid system, and aquire the proper basic aid tools (ladders, daisys, fifi, jugs). 2. Go practice. 3. Go practice. 4. Go practice. 5. Go practice. 6. Go do a route on the UTW. 7. Go practice. 8. Go practice. 9. Go do a route on Washington Column or Leaning Tower with a bivy. 10. Now you have gained the rights to spray about your aid climbing ability on cc.com Your guys' problem? You put step 10 before all others. Other bits of advice... -Filming aid climbing is retarded unless its on a nailing route. Put the camera a way and save your belayer some time. -Aid climbing is most definatly not "cool". Nor bad ass, so if thats your goal, give it up now. -Listen to Ammon, seriously "commit to a peice, dont fuck around and stand up as high as you can" -Think about this... say your doing a big wall and its windy. So every time you have to reach for your aider and grab it because its blowing sideways, adds about 10 seconds you your aid sequence. Well each pitch you gotta reach for the aiders 100 times or so. Thats an extra 17 minnutes per pitch. Say its a 20 pitch route your doing a push on, you could spend an extra 5 hours just grabbing your aidier. Little things add up. So again, dont fuck around! -Lastly, have fun, cuz as we all know aid climbing is NOT fun. PS: Aww bigwallings not trying to be a douche, he just acctually knows how to aid climb(harder than you ever will... seriously), and likes to drink sometimes so don't mind him.

Are the rusty chains on the right from Rooster Rock in the Menage? Ya Rooster or Hen or any one of those pinnacles. The classic Anglin budget anchor sans hangers. Jim's budget hangers pictured to the left. Two orange one blue.

what up topo bitches!

Meh okay I'll bite... my friend Brian and I did the FA of the Platypus, a crazy tower out there off HW 20 somewhere. Probably like II 5.4 A2 or something. This in my opinon has the coolest aid climbing on a route I've ever done. If any one cares for beta I'll drop it. We named it the Platypus to keep with the animal theme of the area. It's beetween Wolf and the Menagerie, with rock unlike anyhting I've seen in Oregon, its kinda like a mammal that lays eggs! Tomahawk!!! Specter!!! Wheres the crack? Your god damn right I'm going to put three into this shit!! The route follows the obvious groove in the shadow.

Jeeze tough crowd here... Any one climb a pinnacle in Oregon the past 6 months and take a picture of it? And no Eric, no further than going to Steins or some such. Straight forward as well. Slog down I5 then jam East along the Umpqua and find one of the MANY crags.

You should take a trip down the the Umpqua go bag Old Man/Woman, Eagle Rock etc... I'm sure would would love it down there.

Anyone tag any cool summits this summer?!?!

Kirk- My point has nothing to do with managing our public lands/campground etc. But thanks for trying to call me out on my ignorance in that aspect. My point is the Grasslands/Skullhollow turned into a shit hole becoming over run with squatters who try and live their lives on public lands in their RV's. Shit was getting stolen, and it became a worry to leave your tent and stove up for the day. The place was on a downward spiral. Something needed to happen, and now it looks like that something is happening. And obviously it doesnt jive with the climbing community, hey when does it? Plain and simple. Yes it sucks, I definatly had some fun partying there from time to time for sure. But you wouldnt catch me dead out there the past few years due to it's sad state of affairs. It's great you have the time and energy to fight such causes, and I applaud you for your efforts. I personally don't have the time nor energy to worry about such things. And I wish you the best of luck with your quest to make a difference and fight for those of us that can't. As we all know this is never an easy task.

Over the past couple years the place turned into a shit hole with more people living there in there RV's constantly running generators than people coming in from Seattle/PDX for the weekend. It's no wonder they did what they did. In all honesty I don't think it really has anything to do with climbers. Sometimes change is inevitable and sometimes its for the better. It's funny how much people care about two acres of cow shit and junipers. Public lands abound... so use em. IMO they needed to do something with the place... as it was fucked in its current state.

its semi tight on me so i bet a medium would probably be just what your looking for!

I bet a meduium would be fine. I'm 5'11 almost and about the same weight and I wear a large.

I dig it. I have an R1 as well and have been reaching for the NW Alpine hoody mostly now. I like how when its fully zipped up its more comfortable on your chin than the R1. I find it to be quite well swen. I would highly reccomend this product and the price is just right. in action

I will say this stuff is rad! If you can, buy some threads and support our local economy.

oh snap

hey i was the one that took pics of you... ill post em when im not drunk. nice job you guys crusied it! oh and there is a real trail

shit so now I have to drive an extra 20 min to my house... seriously though... if your going to come and camp the bivy is killer just be super low key sleeping in your cars, most people that travel dont have a parks pass so your parking is included there with your camp fee. and you get a shower. and your camped there. the only reason you cant sleep in your car is because its a county ordinance. a sherrif would have to come give you a ticket as there are no state park leos in the area. if your cool about it youll be fine. ive stayed there 3-4 times the past few years after getting too wasted and always sleep in my truck and never pay... never been hassled. other wise the shit hole of a camp ground the grasslands was/is is still surrounded by thousands of acres of BLM land. camp where ever the fuck you want. also pleantiful blm land even closer 2.5 mi down lower bridge road. and that sets you up for a trip through terrbonne in the morning.

Bill- Just to get the history part straight Brook Sandhal added the bolts to the line in the mid 90's. Brad England replaced almost every bolt on P2. You hardly need any rack for the route as you can back clean everything. Mostly a set of offset nuts and small cams will be all need. P2 is all bolts. P3 is the same 5.4 pitch you climb to the sumit of Brogan when doing the Marsupial Traverse or the West Face. Prolly one of the best routes to practice cleaning traverses as its all bolts. After turning the roof on P2 you would start to get wet though.

Very cool! And a proud effort! I've enjoyed a few days out there this season my self!

Some unknown assholes from Portland where up there about two years ago dropping thousand pound blocks off it in the middle of a Saturday in some lame attempt to clean that thing up. You can see them at the base. They got caught and got a good talking too. I wonder if they are the same people that added the bolts to the second pitch. For some reason this route has been seeing alot of attention latley? Some friends went to climb it yesterday and found you or someone else already on it. Its your average Smith rubble pile untill pitch 5, it will never really clean up. Unless you've got balls like Thomas then considerable amounts of aid will be used to reach P5.

Smith Rock Challengers Lost Pinnacle 3 Lead Bolts 2 Anchor Bolts W/ Adam Cox 5/2010 Menagerie Wilderness The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress 1 Lead Bolt 2 Anchor Bolts W/ Joe Richardson 8/2010 Royal Arch - B&M Route 2 Lead Bolts 2 Anchor Bolts W/ Jonathan Shrock 9/2010 Royal Arch - Telegraph Road 4 Lead Bolts 2 Anchor Bolts 9/2010 Royal Arch - Wintergreen Chasam/Rap Route 2 Anchor Bolts Wolf Rock Black Kettle 7 Lead Bolts 2 Anchor Bolts W/ Chris Fralick 7/2010 Jay Peterson Route 6 Lead Bolts 2 Anchor Bolts W/ Jake Ringold 6/2010

bunny face

comeon ultralight bros! $325

$350 ?

bump $360?