corvallisclimb

Damn! Looks like EVERYONE was aiding on the LTW, aid is back! Hmm not too sure last time I was there in 08 they were all fixed. Its a lot of circle heads in horizontal pods. Did some other FA in 07 thats super fun high quality a direct variation to Avenging the Goddess Kring on the Rattle Tale, A2 beaks, 4 of each size I think and a LA or two maybe an angle. #2 cam in a pod to start. Called "Shitty Park" since it looks a lot like City Park but thinner. Good beginner nailing route. Super straight forward took like 20 min to do the FA. KBs work too but maybe harder?

I suggest Narrow Arrow Direct as a better aid option. Everyone seems to do the overhang while the direct is still an aid pitch. The C3 varition from the direct to the overhang in that area makes for a fun aid pitch as well. Edit: Oh that also reminds me for all those aid climbers at the LTW with a hammer. We did some silly FA one day beween Narrow Arrow Direct and the A4 heads variation. It was prolly only 50' of new climbing but some cool A3+/A4 beaks n shit to some of the heads and the up the C3 varition. Narrow Arrow Super Direct.

heres a new one....

I dont know the name of it. Its between the Hills Creek Spires and Shady Creek Spires. We thought we where going to do the FA of it but someone beat us to it by drilling THE MOST poorly crafted bolt ladder I have ever seen. I kinda want to call it Scorpion Spire, because after when I was on the ground trundling, under some of the rocks I found three scorpions one almost 3 inches long. The bolt ladder was one of the most botched routes I have ever seen, who ever you are chop your route and climb that thing in proper style! here is one of the smaller ones

:fahq:

this ones been climbed two or three times

I don't really know what we did haha, Alan put it in the book as this... "Adams/Emde Variation (5.8 X) Mixed to 3 inches. You can make and already bad route much worse by following this dangerous variation. From the anchor atop The Quickie, step left past two bolts before stepping back right to a flake system. Climb a freaky, hollow sounding flake the size of a Boeing 737's wing and traverse left across a crumbling slab, arrange a sketchy belay anchor. Traverse far left on easy rock (5.4) before joining the third pitch of the regular route."

Too add to it all... I thought I was on route the whole time because I thought I was following the natural features. Thomas kept yelling at me wondering why I was throwing so much shit off having to garden every hold while placing gear behind a giant bongo flake. Once I got to my "belay" I look down and 30 ft below and way out on the face I spotted their presumed high point. Brian and company made the right choice of avoiding the choss and making the second pitch a bolted face climb. I thought the opposite, wich well in the end created that mess. We climbed another three pitches to the top, slowly the rock got better.

Wow Bill great story! I'm surprised we continued on too! I'm going to meet up with Brian sometime this upcoming week to pick his brain.

yup definatly an Englund route. My friends GF snapped this pic of me rappin off.

some random spires no one will care to do Vulture Ridge Spire (5.6 R) - Smith Rock

couple of secrets left out there too.... Soft Space (5.8 A2) Horse Cock Rock

Ya, the traverse in that picture is drawn in a bit to low. The variation eliminates the pendi, though its only 5.4ish so if your having difficultys at that point you might as well bail.

No it's just like 30ft to the left of the normal starting corner, not a major variation. Supposedly fun climbing though for all 40' of it.

Did you guys do the new direct start to the 1st pitch that was recently cleaned? Still only 5.8 just eliminates traversing accross the slab for your second.

woah I guess that would be Acker? I have never seen it from that angle before though, it looks huge!

The Rabbit Ears in the Rouge are freaking sweet, thanks Greg!

swell! sucks about the cops i woulda flipped my shit if they hinderd my "big all experince"... next time from dinner do skull queen or souther man, youll enjoy them alot more, the aid being a bit more enetertaining. and less of a chance of having a female cops ass in your face.

Proud! :tup: if only I could have been doing that when I was that young!

well this is what he/she was trying to post..... totally gets you stoaked on the farside eh!!! lol

they are all butt shots of 8 yr old girls..... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

don't know, but based on shade of the choss, I'd guess something on the faces immediately downriver from monument, say little 3fj or london tower?? nice - shows a big sawth of rock but still not clear to me. spot on... since no one has probably done it thats the Adams/Emde Variation to the Victory of the Prolitarian Peoples Ambition Arete. Our variation was extremely dangerous, one of my most dangerous leads ever, the anchor at the end probably wouldnt have held a loaf of bread.

Nope not Treyvor from that one day. Its my bro Randy Rimby from Eugene, on a Bauman route. The name and location though are...

anyone know what this classic 3 pitch route is????

and theres a couple of sets of bunny ears out there as well