corvallisclimb

You should be fine, but may have to walk in a mile? Although even that is doubtful. I would call the ranger station to find out exactly what the current snow pack is like: (530) 926-4511 Also consider West Face Gully as a good ski descent. You won't be dodging nearly as many bodies on your way down that side and you can easily cut over Casaval Ridge w/o having to regain if crossing around 11,000ft. Alternatively you could cross around 10,000ft with little gain, maybe 100ft or so. Cool thanks! So Avalanch Gulch is pretty much busy any day I take it? Can't find my Cascades Guide with Shasta in it right now unfortuntaly but will def look into the West Face Gully.

Whos been on this sweet summit?! One of the finest locations to picnic in the gorge, the Alpenjager! Lookin like a fruit on top of the Alpenjager.

nice!!!! that summit sure is sweet!!

Hey I'm planning on skiing Avalanch Gulch with some friends on the 30th or 1st. I don't really know anything about Shasta. Basically my only question is will be be able to skin from car to summit still?

Cragging Humor

Okay... Well since I'm probably the only one thats climbed the route, I'll voice my opinion. Its not that good, and its not horrible either, maybe about 5.7. It was put up by the same climbers who bolted a lot of other new routes on the Red Wall. The only real good thing about it is now you can climb that wall as a 5.7 sport climb using "A Stroke of Brilliance" as the third pitch. You still need a couple of peices for the belay at the end of the second pitch though. Slightly contrived, maybe? Another fine beginner pitch, sure. I anit going to chop it and I aint going to brag about it.

Thats a clear alien! And its mine now!!! Thanks for tha link!

Also my post on here got delted. Nothing new Checat. Some freinds of mine from Eugene put some BOLTED routes up there in the 90's found the rock to be dangerously loose. I love how you just find it on google earth and just assume its never been climbed on. Keep lookin buddy. Oh and for $1000 I'll give you the beta so it can be in your sick new guide.

bumps

DO NOT try to climb there. If you have any more questions you can send me a message, but I don't want to say anything on here. I guarentee what ever Checat told you in a PM is BS... Don't spray about shit you know nothing about.

Wolf was closed in the mid to late 90's due to falcon nesting. Currently there is no official closure but there is a pair of Peregrines nesting on Pooh Corner right next to Barad-Dur. They have been quite active this year so its heavily advised to avoid climbing Barad-Dur for another month or two. The sport routes under the arch and the summit scramble are fine though.

When I TR solo I usually use 4 mini traxions. You should get 4 instead.

Nice. Which one did you get? I think that the night photos (infared) looks sucky and would want something clearer when the lights are off. http://www.amazon.com/8MP-Trophy-Brown-Night-Vision/dp/B0039UW6KU I got that one, I've seen some of the night photos from this model and they don't look too bad. I'm sure you could alot more for some higher quailty, but for $150, I'll take it!

Yup! Just ordered mine, watch out!

thet you tyler? thought you wuz in yo semite. you led it? i sure didn't. crap, i couldn't even pull the first real move. Bill, I'm faaaar from climbing that thing. Which does prove tyler's point. Anyway it seemed much much harder than most if not all 11's i've climbed in this state. Not quite as bad as that blank section next to classic crack, but not that far off. hehe ya, leaving tomorrow, cuz I have to sit around and do nothing for two days before i have my blood drawn again, yippee! I'll see you hopefully sometime the second half of next week!

I think you just need to work less and climb more

you're on i'll bring a big old hunk of junk rope to add a loop to the crazy web of slings round the summit block! What ever you do, do not do it on a day with lots of people hiking. You run a huge chance of knocking lots of shit off on the trail on the second pitch. Surley the hardest 5.7 I've ever done. We knocked a lot of shit off with just the rope, totally out of our controll, luckily was in the middle of winter! Oh and you don't really need a helmet... your already going to die anyways!

lol ya Eric, that wasnt Calebs first lead, but he has not been leading very long. He took off on that pitch like a gut-shot cat! He obviously has the potential to go far if only he could remember his helmet. He'll be way psyched on the pictures though! The rest of that class however did not preform quite as well.

Bruce Birchell and Scott Davis on Barad-Dur 1979 Photo credit: Scott Davis

Bruce Birchell on the last pitch of Soft Shoe Ballet at Smith (5.10 A2), circa 1980. Photo courtesy of Bruce Birchell

another cool old shot... Bruce Birchell and Scott Davis on Abraxas 1977 Photo courtesy of Bruce Birchell

Great stuff! Thanks Gary!!!

I'll bring my rack of bongs.

Tom Baumans got lots of good storys about the cable crossing. Maybe oldmanrock can chime in since he was probably there. But one time BITD they were going accross the cable crossing and had the belay rope laying in the middle of the road, as the cable starts on the opposite side of the road. Needless to say a car came ripping down the highway with the belay line hanging a foot above the road. Well you all can guess what happend, some loud snaps and some pissed off drivers... a couple more stories of using aluminum carabiners on the cable are out there as well.

im going to say not so true on the smith being always nice, this year its been shitty at smith, rain and snow many days. hell it rained today, ive gotten rained on like 4 of the past 8 days of work out there since april. last week we had an epic hail storm with half of the class still on the monkey... its been raining on 40% days there this year but like nate said you can surley get lucky many times as well. there is a webcam at the park http://www.smithrock.com/webcam/index.html this helps a lot!