corvallisclimb

there some cool pinnacles in Oregon that have some weird holes through them....

Bryan- i was not talking about you at all. your situation sucks you have all the right to be pissed and to place those bolts. im on your side 100%

god this is fucking hilarious hahahahahahahah boooo fuckin hooooo two bolts showed up at some peice of shit crag in the gorge (sorry bill et. all you know i love the choss, but it aint nothing to write home to mom about) i mean seriously do you guys think your setting some new standards at the d zone? i've had my fun trying to act hardcore about bolts n shit. but im over it and i realize how fucking selfish we as climbers have become. everyone really just needs to take a step back and look at your selves, i dont know the chopper but it seems like hes been around long enough to realize hes acting like hes in highschool just like half of ya all. i'm not trying to start a fight with any one. i like and respect each and every one of you. i just want you guys to realize im only 24 and i think you guys are acting like abunch of fucking pussys. this is seriously retarted.

i'd say more or less pitch 2 and 3 are both about 80-90' and all aid if your climbingg 5.10 and under. then all free to the top, unless you aid the rotten block.

the first pitch alone is prolly around 150' heres a shot looking up the belays at the top of the piss stain

Nice Eric! Where is that pinnacle in Oregon? looks sick! Way to finally finish her eh? Now I can have a crack?

I'll second that? Time for a second edition Mike, gotta add what ever the hell that is that to the book.

it doesn't suprise me at all that a terrebonnian would need 2.5 hours to make it to smiff Actually I live in Hood River. But I agree that most tear a bone againians would probably take 2.5 hours to make it to Smith. They have to call their parole officer and make sure it is ok, drop off their wife/cousin at high school, and hit up the local meth house and then tweek their way down the trail. Ryan wins! :lmao:

Heh Wayne I'm just bitter my first attempt and Bills second at the Black Spider a couple days prior to your sucess, was thwarted due too wind, or lack of sack to climb in the wind?

fawk well now this is the mt hood fourm formerly the oregon fourm.... anyone?

I agree! For the last couple of years I've been using a Mini Traxion by Petzel. I'll tie the middle of the rope into the anchor and use a gri-gri to descend the free stand. For the end the mini is rigged to I tie my pack off at the end (with stuff in it) as a counter weight. Mini Traxions are prerfect too. I just said a basic since it is acctully intended for ascending a rope where minis are intended for hauling. Either way both work great. I definatly do NOT reccomend a grigri. Unless its 5.6 with tons of no hands stances. More info at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1123050/toprope_solo_setup

OK that is new to me. Please tell me how you rig up a solo Top Rope? Do you do that with a figure 8 to provide the friction in case of fall? Photo? Usually it is done with Gri-Gri A gri gri is the worst for top rop soloing. It is not ment to self feed so i dont know why anyone would use it? A basic ascender rigged with a chest harness and the occasionall back up knot is the way to go. Add a little weight on the bottom end of the rope and your climbing.

NAME THAT ROUTE IN OREGON :lmao: Looks like fun, I know where... but the route name escapes me

shameless bumps for because its rock season already!

this was fun

Bump cuz this shits funny and mt hood is not!

Wow thanks guys! Bump to get hood outta the way!

Bump cuz Mt Hood is FAHKING GEYH! Do people really give a shit about the 1,256,303 ascent of da South Side? Anyways nice one Justin, did you guys climb it?

dood! I have added a kite to my kit recently, definatly a fun toy for long aid belays.

Woops! Sorry Kim... I still think it's a cool bit of trivia. Naw, Kim ain't ugly. Although his ankles are. He's a fairly humble man, especially with all he's been through. Lots of stories--he was at the fore of US climbing here and abroad for many years. He'd likely tell you some of those stories himself: hire him as a guide through Exum next time you're doing the Grand or anything in the Tetons. Yeah, I know, many of you don't need a guide, but to spend a day or two with Kim would be well worth it. Kim Schmitz is a bad ass. FA of East Face of Monkey Face with Gerlad Bjorkman 1964 (hey it was once a hard nail-up) FA of Picnic Lunch Wall with Tom Bauman in 1969 (far fewer bolts, dropped his sleeping bag) FA of Aquarian Wall with Jim Bridwell in 1971 FA of Zenith with Bridwell in 1978 to name a few... damn!

the fa of Liberty Crack took three days that would have made it a grade 6 then

it all V but not when the FA occured Lib Crack had to be a grade 6 in 66 or when ever right?

well no ones said liberty crack or any of that stuff on lib bell have they?

Wayne, that blog would be by Mr. BillAmos him self, my partner in crime. woot finally a solid pin! Thanks to Kira for taking this picture while on Birds in a Rut.