corvallisclimb

Here's a shot from the Christian Brothers Traverse where you can tag four or five summits in one route. There really is'nt much loose rock on it and if your carefull you wont knock any off. I soloed the reverse traverse, and didnt even knock anything off with ropes all over and what not. The regular way is 5.7 and the reverse is 5.7 A1, I belive the reverse has had only two ascents both solo. So theres no excuse to not get on the traverse. With highly varied climbing, great position and all the summits, why not? Summit of the Monk, Christian Brothers Traverse, Smith Rock

The "unclimbed" list is getting smaller - slowly but surely...... Hello there Mr. Cramer! Your contributions to the Sky Valley climbing sceene are awsome! I don't belive we've ever met, but I was the one that did the FA of "Shitty Park" on the Rattle Tale Wall thanks to Jake.

hey Geoff nice twig anchor... looks like it would hold a semi

Got to sit down with Alan last week and pick up my copy of the book and all I've gotta say is WOW, this book is the shit. Alan spent so much time making sure not to miss a thing. The topos and pictures are top notch as well as the descriptions. So if you have any interest in Smith climbing go grab a copy and see for your self. So heres to Alan, because with out his dedication we'd still be reading crappy print outs and not climbing routes that now finally deserve some traffic.

nope sadly... my guess would be under 10 ascents though... who knows tho, its hard to say.

Okay heres one scary summit! Shiprock (5.7X) at Smith... This is by far one of the loosest most rotten things I've climbed, but well worth it! It was always hard to find someone to climb it with but finally this guy wanderd up to my friend and I as we where finishing an obscure route at Smith. He said he hadnt roped up yet at Smith but had done a little soloing and really wanted to gut up some summits. So I proposed the Christian Brothers Traverse for the next day, he was in. We wound up swapping leads along it with lazy ass Jake (bigwalling) tagging along. After that I knew this guy was core. So for our next outting we did Shiprock as his second roped climb ever at Smith. This guy is Brian Moore and hes fucking hard core!!! Anyways now some pics from the day, all stolen from Brian.

Nice, welcome to cc.com Greg! Got any pictures of Jurrasic Park or Redmans Tooth? Edit: Or better yet any pictures from your ascent of Big Squaw?

Jason- I'd love too get out there. Lets start planning a trip, I just aquired two IK's.

hell ya Geoff!!

Heres Jim Anglin on Chicken Legs on Chicken Rock in the Menagerie (FA Jim Anglin & Chris Fralick). This is one of the best sport routes there. Jim always said this was his favorite route in the Menagerie. The regular route up Chicken, Rawhide (5.8) is wild for the grade and well worth it. Chicken Legs (5.11a), Chicken Rock, Menagerie

Kurt- Many of the routes in the area went up in the late 50's/early 60's, such as Gary's (oldmanrock) first ascent of Old Man and Eagle Rock. If I recall Gary mentioned an airplane being involved with the approach as the highway had not been pushed that far yet. If you havent seen Greg Orton's Umpqua Rock book, check it out, its a great resource for the area.

Gary- Tell us a story about the FA!

This is a picture looking up "The Prize" on Old Man in the Umpqua area. This is in my opinion one of the more classic sport routes in Oregon. With four pitches of sustained hard climbing, one of 5.10c, two at 5.11b and one 5.11c. I was fortunate to get drug up the hard pitches this route by Chris Fralick after I managed the first. We where rewarded by a tyrolean traverse to Old Woman at the end. The standard route up Old Man goes at 5.9 and is also a great route. If you can climb the grade you must do the route! "The Prize" (5.11c), Old Man Spire, Umpqua Area FA - Joe Chaves and Greg Orton 2000

Radek- I know you've got more!!! Bill- Those look awsome let me know if you want a partner for them, I would be stoaked.

hell ya you did! post up some pics and a story!! the monkeys the classic oregon spire, and damn well we all know the turkeys pretty damn sick! i dont care what it is, as long as its climbing content somehow related to oregon rock summits.

Come'on every one don't be shy. I know theres pleanty of people who could contribute to this thread.

ya ill be goin tom sometime or thursday morning give me a call if you come up for pub club

YA BILLY AND MARCUS!!! you guys are fucking bad ass! see you on Thursday.

Greg Orton snapped these shots of Wilbur Nazarian, Mai Hyman and I on the South Face route, of the South Rabbit Ear in the Menagerie. We cruised up the route that day and replaced the one old bolt on P2 as we rapped down. The first ascent in 1967 by Tom & Bob Bauman was very notable for its time. At only 5.8 this may not sound like much, but if you've ever done it, an all free ascent on the first ascent will seem very impressive. If you've not done it this is a must do Oregon summit. South Rabbit Ear (5.8), Menagerie Wilderness

Ivan snapped this shot of my friend Brian Gilbert and I after our first ascent of The Zebra in the Menagerie. The night before I was telling Ivan how I never fall climbing, sure enough I took a ride the next day on this beast. I whipped a solid 20ft after a sling popped off a knob when I was placing the next sing on a nob. Got caught 5ft off the ground by a #1 beak in some choss. The second sling was still hanging there, so I just free climbed through where I fell got to the sling and drilled a bolt. What would have been A4 with blades and rurps was A2 with beaks. Think the Menageries climbed out... think again The Zebra (5.9 A2), Menagerie Wilderness

Bill- The uphill side where the route is, is only about 70-80ft while the down hill side is much bigger. Have you climbed Needle before?

Little Needle Rock is a great little summit next to the larger Needle Rock in the Detroit area. When I climbed the 5th ascent with Tim Olsen we where still the 2nd and 3rd people on the summit, as Brad Englund had rope soloed it 3 times after his orginal FA. We had no prior info on it but got up it with out hooks, wich Brad had rated it according to his summit register as 5.7 A2 hooks. Little Needle Rock (5.7 A2), Detroit Area

I think Oregon has some of the coolest rock climbing anywhere. Mostly due to the fact of the vast amount or rock pinnacles. Theres tons of them, close to 150 in the Menagerie area alone. So heres a thread for the pinnacles/spires/summits of Oregon. Post your pictures, stories, favorite summits, anything! No spray please! I just want to see some solid content in this thread. I'll kick it off with a small one, and we can grow from there. This is a rad little spire, well worth the hike to bag the summits in the area. Index Finger (5.6), Mendenhall Ridge, Smith Rock

Like fater like son. The best of the best.

Hey Alan. Glad you found the cc.com shit show... Anyways the rap bolt revolution at Smith started with Sky Ridge in the 60's, a route that many trad climbers consider to be classic. 99% of the climbers on this board will never climb as hard as Alan or impact the sport as much as he did. Like he said this thread brings him back to 25 years ago. So shut up and deal with it, Alan was the best of the best. Sport is climbing here to stay and will never go away. Tyler