climbingcoastie

Look into possibly joining your local Search and Rescue team. Once a member in good standing most will offer courses for free or drastically reduced prices, plus you get to serve your community.

Trip: 8 Days on the East Side - Date: 11/9/2013 Trip Report: Day 1 Josh picked me up in his rig Saturday morning for a week on the East Side. Josh’s rig With 120 being open through the park we decided on climbing in Tuolumne along the way. Two of the climbs right off the road I that have been on my to do list, but never got the chance due to crowds in the summer Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway and The Great White Book. As we pulled into the parking area there was a party on the flake and another standing at the base waiting their turn. Decision was easy so we jumped on Great White Book (5.6 R). I’m not sure if we climbed higher than most before belaying or what but we ended up doing it in four pitches. The first pitch was a fun corner with decent protection that you lie backed/stemmed your way up. The second pitch continues the stem/chimney and is where the “R” comes into place. I ended up climbing to the bolts without ever placing a piece. The other two pitches were pretty runout also, but I at least got a couple pieces in. After the exposed walk off we went to check out the ice in Lee Vining then to Saddlebag Lake for the night. Josh approaching the first belay Me at the first belay A French climber on The Boltway with Tenaya Lake below Run out forth pitch Half Dome from the summit Day 2 We woke up a little before 0500, had breakfast, and then started hiking towards North Peak as the sun was starting to come up. We followed the well-established trail around the lake and followed an old road for a bit before turning off and heading cross-country. We tried picking our way around snow patches and lakes to the base of the Northeast Couloir of North Peak. The last ¼ mile took almost an hour with the thigh deep powder snow over boulders. We kept looking at the line to the left of the Northeast Couloir as it was a very striking line, but as our first ice climb of the season we settled on the our original objective. A few hours later we were topping out on the couloir and forwent the summit due to time. We made it back to the truck s the sun was going down. North Peak Northeast Couloir Josh climbing the second pitch Dreaming it was taller and thicker Day 3 We slept in a little then headed back up to Toulomne and climbed Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4) to the Boltway (5.8). Josh lead the tunnel-through variation which was fun, but a bit awkward as I had a pack hanging from my harness. I got the lead on the next two pitches that were fun climbing in a great location. Once we were done and had a quick lunch we headed over to Lembert Dome and climbed Left Water Crack (5.7R). The Supertopo book pretty much sums it up, “Awkward, strange, weird, and runout”. Not sure how this is such a popular route and don’t know if I’ll do it again. We drove to June Lake for dinner at the Tiger Bar then to Parker Lake trailhead for the night. Josh on the last pitch of the Boltway Josh on top of the Water Cracks with Cathedral behind him Day 4 We headed out at 0540 and followed beautiful trail to the east side of Parker Lake. This is where we lost the trail and I started questioning my sanity! We checked the weather the night before and it was suppose to be 70* in The Valley that day. With a lifetime of routes within minutes of the car just an hour away, why in the hell was I doing a steep three-hour approach to freeze my ass off. After hearing that solid “thunk” every ice climber searches for it all made since. We decided to climb the left side of the right hand flow first. Josh cut a deal with me and got the first lead (I get the first lead on our trip to Alaska in February). He made easy work of the lower angled section down low. I could tell he had some issues as he was trying to clear the lip of the climb, it wasn’t until I followed him that I realized why. Our first water fall ice of the season, the ice on top of the lip was breaking up leaving slick slab exposed with nothing to use the ice tools on. I was a little nervous on top rope, so I could only imagine what was going through his head on lead. Once down, I picked a line just to the right of what he climbed and lead up to a 15’ vertical curtain. I drove a screw in at the base of it and headed up. I was thinking “November 12th, in California, and I’m climbing water ice. Who would have thought?” We decided to rap off a V-thread and headed to the left hand flow for one lead each. We lost the trail heading back down so it put us at the truck right as it was getting dark. We drove to Mammoth for pizza and gas while trying to figure out a plan. I texted a couple friends and asked about hot springs in the area. With directions in hand we headed out. I opted to freeze that night walking to/from the hot springs, but enjoyed the nice soak. View back down canyon from about half way. Worth every step. First water ice of the season! Getting ready to climb the left hand flow. Day 5 Another lazy morning starting off with breakfast then another soak in the hot springs. Once we got ourselves motivated to hit the road we headed further south to Owens River Gorge. I started off on a short 5.5 route to get use to the rock having never been there before. I’d always heard ORG was soft in their ratings, but after climbing that I thought there’s no way I am going to be able to climb harder than 5.8. We went around the corner and climbed a couple more routes then moved to an area called The Warm Up Wall. We climbed several routes in the 5.7-5.9 range here, then headed back towards the truck stopping to climb another 5.7 & 5.9. At the base of the 5.9 there was a wooden plaque honoring someone that died climbing the route. This messed with my head the first half of the route. Once I finished that we headed back up to the truck via moonlight. We headed into Bishop to for a couple things and then to the famous “Pit” campground for the night. On our way down into the Lower Gorge Almost to the climbs One way to fill the water tank without a spicket. We had to hand pump the water into the jug then fill the camper. The famous “Pit” campground. Not bad for $2 a night! Day 6 After heading back into Bishop for a few things and stopping at the bakery we headed back to Owens River Gorge. This time we took a trad rack as we seen a couple cracks the day before that intrigued us. The first route I lead was a 5.4 fairing crack that had loose rock all the way up it. I felt it was very sketchy for a 5.4 and it reminded me of a 5.5 at the Leap called the Farce. Once Josh climbed it we did a beautiful 5.8 called Mile High Crack . I’d say this was probably the single best rock pitch of the whole trip! You probably could have lead it with triples of .5 & .75 and nothing else. It had good feet on the outside and decent jamming where there wasn’t face holds to climb. Feeding off the high I got from it I jumped on Wowie Zowie, my first 5.10a lead! Josh liked Mile High Crack so much that he decided to lead it afterwards. We then headed further into the gorge and climbed several routes including another 10a lead for me and a 10c clean on toprope. Overall it was a long day of hard (for me anyways) climbing and my fingers we raw. We had sushi on our way through Bishop heading down to Alabama hills. The 5.4 to the left of the chimney. And the awesome 5.8 to the right. From the base Josh cleaning Mile High Crack Can’t get enough of fall colors Day 7 It was a little windy when we woke up and chilly in the shade. We climbed a couple easier routes one was bolted and the other was bolts with gear. We then walked to an area called The Corridors and climbed a couple more routes up to 5.10a. We tried one climb but didn’t know how hard it was and neither of us could make it to the top. Josh climbed the route next to it to retrieve our bail draw. I couldn’t make it up that route so he had to re-climb it to get our gear. We walked over to Paul’s Paradise area and climbed Ted Shread (5.9 but Mountain Project consensus is 5.7+). It would have been a fun little climb except my fingers were so raw I could barely hold on to anything. Josh cleaned it in his approach shoes and we hiked over to The Shark's Fin . A friend told me that if I’m ever in Alabama Hills that I needed to climb it, if for nothing else the views and photo op. I lead Shark’s Fin Arête (5.7), though it had great views of Mt. Whitney I thought it was anticlimactic when I reached the top. If we would have had a third to get a picture of me climbing it I might feel a little differently about it. I climbed the other 5.7 on the Fin and called it quits. Seven days of climbing with so many climbs at/near my limit yesterday really had me hurting. Josh climbed the 5.7 and moved the rope to another climb (5.10ish) and I belayed him while laying on the ground. We laid in the sun relaxing until the sun ducked behind the mountains and headed back to the truck for dinner. After dinner we headed back up to Bishop and stayed at the Pit again. The long approaches in Alabama Hills The Shark's Fin with Mt. Whitney in the background Day 8 With my fingers being so sore and with a tired body I wasn’t sure how much climbing I would have in me today. We headed back to ORG, this time we went to the upper gorge while toting a trad rack. We went to All You Can Eat Wall and climbed a fun 5.7 trad route called Fine Dining. It had a couple tricky sections in it but great gear all the way. The shunts at the top were very worn and made me a little nervous being lowered on them. Once Josh cleaned it we mover over to Alfred Hitchcrack (5.8) which was a fun lead. There was plenty of jamming broken up by nice face holds. Cinderella (5.9), a four star bolted route was next. It looked like a nice finger crack all the way up a dihedral. When I was back on the ground all I told Josh was “that’s not what I expected from that climb” he asked what I meant and I told him “you’ll see”. Once he climbed it he agreed. All You Can Eat Wall the 5.7 to the left of the rope. 5.8 the crack to the right, and Cinderella is the corner just left of the grass We moved across the canyon to a climb called Silence of the Poodles (5.8). I started to get a pit in my stomach while I was gearing up and fought it the whole way up this climb. Not sure if it was the climb or me but it felt really hard. Come to find out it’s one of the hardest 5.8’s in the gorge. We moved over to My Favorite Animal is a Ligar (5.10b) where Josh lead it. He cleaned everything on the way down as I wasn’t sure if I was going to lead it, toprope it, or pull the rope and move on. I decided to give it a go on lead and somehow made it without falling for my first 10b lead! We sat and watched a guy cussing out his partner for taking him up a multi-pitch 10c. He was hanging in free air thrashing around trying to get back on the rock. Turns out it was his first multi-pitch climb. Several of us were laughing at the situation and their conversation. We move further up the canyon where I belayed Josh on a 10c. I passed on even attempting it and decided on a short 5.8 crack climb we had passed along the way. I geared up and tried pulling the first move and my arms wouldn’t bare any weight. I stepped off the rock and declared I was done for the day. Josh asked if I wanted to try it again and I declined saying I didn’t want it to piss me off and I’d just save it for next time. I belayed him up it and then on another climb next to it, then we headed out. We grabbed Subway for the road in Bishop and decided to try and get home. I walked in my door at 10:45 after eight days of climbing. Needless to say I was tired and ready for a shower. I didn’t envy Josh as he had another hour and a half drive north to get home. Overall a great trip and I look forward to many more with a great partner. Approach Notes: Really enjoyed the camper!

My mistake, you are correct Jason.

Jason, I'm pretty sure its the Trifthorn. Over 1000m of 60+ degree rock hard ice.

Trip: Another two weeks in France and Switzerland - several Date: 9/16/2013 Trip Report: For those that don’t know or have forgotten here is the back story: First Trip to Europe This trip started last fall when Alke asked if I was interested in climbing Kilimanjaro this year. Of course I was intrigued and agreed on the trip. I looked into it a little and realized that it was going to cost a small fortune for airfare and for the climb. I wasn’t all that excited about the finical side of it due to medical bills we are having to pay, but I agreed so I wasn’t going to back out. Around February I mentioned to Alke that we needed to start planning our dates and mentioned the financial burden a trip to Kilimanjaro was going to have. He agreed and said I should just come and visit him, as it would be much cheaper for the both of us. After discussing it over with my wife, I had tickets bought within 24hrs!! Day 1 After leaving Sacramento around noon the day before I arrived in Geneva at 1620 where Alke picked me up and drove me to his hotel. Needless to say after the flight and dinner I was ready for bed. Day 2 Woke up to this view from my bed! One of Alke’s friends met us at the hotel and we headed to Mont Chauffé to do a little cragging. The climbing was all bolted on nice limestone that was super textured. I lead my first 6a+ (10a) not knowing the “+” sign was another grade altogether and not just a hard 6a. Alke climbing at Mont Chauffe Loebas watching Alke climb View from the base of the crag. Day 3 Alke, Monique, and I headed to an area above Champoussin, Switzerland called Portes du Soleil. Alke said several times that the views were beautiful from this crag, and he wasn’t lying. We started off on some easier routes and worked up to climb a couple 6a. The rock looked and felt like it was going to come off in your hand, but surprisingly ended up being very solid. The whole time listing to the sounds of cow bells from below. From the base of the crag One of the routes we climbed. Day 4 Pure HELL!! About two months before my trip Alke asked if I wanted to compete in a “Vertical K” race. He explained to me that it is a staggered start race that climbs 1000m in just over 2km in distance. Not knowing any better I agreed, but told Alke I wasn’t in as good of shape as last time I visited and wouldn’t do that great. Within the first five minutes of the race I knew it wasn’t going to be good. Alke started 12 minutes after I did and ended up passing me by the 500m mark. I was hurting so bad I thought about quitting at the 700m mark and again at the 800m mark. I did so poorly that I even disappointed myself. I’m too embarrassed to tell everyone my time but I’ll just say I solidified the “fat, lazy, out of shape American” stereotype. I knew I wasn’t in the best of shape, but I’m sure the jet lag, change in diet, and lack of sleep the previous three days added to my problems. We started in the field in the lower left and followed the drainage up and right until above tree line. Then up to the flat shoulder to the left of the main peak. Day 5 I woke up still not recovered from the day before, but luckily we had a drive to get to where we were going. We headed towards Passy, France for a few days to do some alpine ridge climbs. When we got there we hiked up the Refuge de Tre la Tete. It was a nice hike that took just shy of two and a half hours. I kept thinking that night that I’d do that hike 10 times with a pack before I’d do another one of those races. This was my first experience with a hut that wasn’t closed for the winter. I must say it’s nice to have dinner and breakfast cooked for you. Monique on the hike up to Refuge de Tre la Tete. Looking down at Les Contamines-Montjoie where we parked Refuge de Tre la Tete Day 6 We left the Tre la Tete hut around 0830 to hike up to the Refuge des Conscrits. It was a nice four hour hike that included a Himalayan bridge. Beautiful scenery the whole day. Once we got the Conscrits hut we dropped most of our gear and hiked the approach for the route we would be doing the next morning in the dark. The alternate route to the Conscrits goes up the glacier. We chose the hiking trail that went up the left side out of view. Views along the way. One of the many exposed areas along the trail. Monique making her way along the trail. The Himalayan bridge we got to cross. Refuge des Conscrits The view from our room at the Conscrits. Alke enjoying a $5 Coke. They have to pay for the helicopter somehow as everything is flown in. Alke and Monique enjoying the sun at Refuge des Conscrits Day 7 Me and Alke woke up for an early breakfast and started on our way to Mont Tondu. The glacier wasn’t nearly as steep as we thought it was from the hut and we made decent time up to the col. From there we climbed a snowy slope to the rocky summit ridge. It was a fun, easy, but exposed traverse that we remained roped up for. I remember thinking this would be real easy without crampons on! We went from the hut to the summit and back in seven hours, about what the guide book suggested. Mont Tondu is the snowy peak on the right. Alke along the summit ridge of Mont Tondu The view from the summit. Dome de Miage is the last summit on the left. Day 8 We woke up early again and tried to climb the Dome de Miage Traverse. The weather had moved in and we had clouds around the summits. We decided to continue as two other groups were also pushing on. We got the first col just as the clouds dropped and one of the groups decided to turn around. We continued up in the whiteout following the tracks of those from the day before. We got to the second col when the guided couple decided to turn around. We continued up to the first summit and lost the trail. After a few minutes of searching and then a break we headed down. We stopped by the Conscrits hut to pick up our extra gear and continued all the way down to the truck, parked 8000ft below our high point. My feet were a little sore when we got to the truck. We drove back to Alke’s hotel and had the best French fries I’ve ever had! Alke along the glacier with the clouds above. Taking a break in the whiteout. Locals hanging around the Conscrits hut. Some of the undeveloped areas around Passy, France along the drive back. Day 9 We sort of took a rest day and did the local via ferrata. I had never done one and it was well worth the time. It would be a good way to introduce people to the exposure or a good work out if you couldn’t find a climbing partner. The start of the via ferrata. Walking the plank 20m up. Alke working the safety tethers . Day 10 Rough nights sleep the last couple days. Drove to Morzine, France to climb a 400m route called Vol du Korbé (5c). It was beautiful limestone with the climbing getting easier the higher you climbed. At the top you traverse left below a headwall then climb up the left side of it. The route starts below the black mark, climbs through the swirls, and onto the upper slab. Alke getting to the first belay. Just over half way up. Amazing views from the climb. Only five pitches to go. Day 11 A true rest day, no climbing, no hiking, nothing. Just sitting around and watching it rain outside. I slept about 10 hours and think I finally recovered from the race. Day 12 We got a little later start than we wanted and headed towards Zenal and hiked up to the Cabane du Mountet for an attempt on a few climbs. It was an amazing four and a half hour hike that followed the valley a little bit then climbed up to the hut. It seemed like I was doing better on the hike than previous days. Our plan was to climb Mammouth after the hike, but due to time we decided to hold off. Good thing, because it rained/snowed most of the afternoon. Fall colors along the trail. Growing up in Indiana, I sure do miss fall colors. A views of the valley we hiked up. Alke along the trail about half way there. View from the Cabane du Mountet Day 13 We headed out before daylight to attempt the SW ridge of Besso. It took us a little over an hour to get to the base of the chimney. With all the snow the last few days there was still quite a bit on the route. With the snow covered rock we decided to rope up and pitch out the class 3 scrambling to get to the ridge, which slowed us down considerably. Once we reached the ridge, after four pitches, we tied in short and I lead up the ridge. Great exposed climbing!! After a traversing the ridge for a couple hours we realized we weren’t going to get to the top and back to the base before dark and with clouds moving in we decided to turn around soon. We were on the north side of the ridge and I decided to go up a little more to get us on the correct side before turning around. Once on the right side I found the trail that we were suppose to follow up bypassing the section we just climbed. We followed this trail down to the approach chimney and back to the hut. Once back in the hut we looked in the guidebook and it said to be sure to note where you gain the ridge. If you miss this spot on the way down the climbing is much harder than that on the route. This might explain why it took us so long to traverse the section that we did. Alke approaching the Besso Alke along the ridge Alke on the decent with the section of ridge we climbed in the background. Didn’t make the summit, but views like this make a great consolation prize. The Mammouth ridge is the black rock in the lower right. Of course once we got down the clouds started moving out. Day 14 Again we woke up and were out the door before daylight. This time we were headed towards Zinalrothorn. Seeing it from Besso yesterday we decided there was too much snow-covered rock to try for the summit, so we just settled on just trying to get to the shoulder above the col and left the rock gear at the hut. The perspective of distance is totally different here. Looking at the shoulder from the hut it looked like it we would be there in no time. Several hours latter we were still trying to reach the col below the shoulder. Once on the col we followed the knife edge ridge towards the Zinalrothorn. Just shy of the shoulder we ran into the snow-covered rock. I attempted to get through it, but without rock gear there wasn’t much protection and I decided to down climb and call it a day. As soon as we decided to head down the sun came out and and made for some great views. The Zinalrothorn at sunrise. A picture from about half way to the col. Zinalrothorn and the ridge we tried to climb. Alke from our high point on Zinalrothorn. Over the back side of the ridge. Dent Blanche The possibilities are endless! Another local Day 15 We still had the Mammouth Traverse (3b) to do before we hiked out that afternoon. We hit the trail just as the sun cam up and was climbing up to the ridge shortly after. The hardest part of the beginning was the route finding. Once on the ridge it was straightforward and exposed climbing. Nothing too hard and we were short roped the whole route. It took us about five hours hut to hut. We then packed our stuff up and headed down to the truck. The Mammouth Traverse We did it left to right. Alke along the ridge. I finally gave Alke my camera, so a few pics of me: Besso in the background Obligatory summit shot with the Zinalrothorn in the background. As good of a place as any to take a break. Done with the climbing. Now back to the hotel, and home. Day 16 I learned the last time not to make my return flight too early, so I booked it for 1100. Long trip home! From Amsterdam to Seattle I had a little brat kicking my seat every 2-3 minutes and the parents did nothing to stop him. Finally made it home to Sacramento at 2130 for a 20+ hour travel day. Several people have asked me which trip I enjoyed the most. That’s a hard one to answer. My first trip we had perfect weather and met all our planned objectives. This trip we had to plan around the weather and didn’t summit but two of the five bigger climbs we planned. We also chose bigger objectives this time around and decided to not use a guide at all. Getting shut down is part of climbing in my book, it can’t all go as planned all the time. So I’d do either one of them over again in a blink of an eye. I did learn it isn’t nearly as expensive to live there as I thought. I think I’ve got Ginny talked into living over there for 90 days right after I retire in a couple years!! There is a lifetime of climbing there so not sure if 90 days will be enough. Gear Notes: Light alpine rack, slings, and a few extra quickdraws Approach Notes: KLM is now partners with Delta. I booked my flight on the KLM website because I was impressed with them on my last trip. Unfortunately I got stuck flying Delta across the pond.

I figure it's a long shot on here but thought I'd try anyway. I'm headed down to Tuolumne Saturday from Sacramento and will be looking for a partner until Tuesday (a buddy is showing up on wednesday). I'm leading .7's and following 8/9's, have all the gear, and consider myself a safe climber. I prefer the Meadows but will climb in the Valley, doesn't matter, just want to get on the rock. Let me know if your interested. Pat

"Am Limit" aka: The limit

Sorry to hear about the ankle/leg Bill. I read about it on your site, nice job getting out of there. It must have been hell. Hope your getting healed up. I took a fall at work a month back and am now missing the best ice season in the Sierra's in years. Go figure, my first year down here. My cast should come off mid Jan and then the PT begins. Hope I can sneak on some ice this spring.

"Am Limit" on Netflix and is about the Huber brothers trying to break the Nose speed record back in 2005(?).

Get stationed in Sacramento and climb with me!! You have more than enough gear as mentioned. I second (or third,fourth) the idea of hiring a guide. You'll get more out of a couple days with a private guide than a class because they can focus on what you want or need instead of catering to the least experienced. And well worth the money. I'm recovering from a broken wrist/arm but if you want to hit Smith this spring let me know. Pat

Nice job getting yourself out of there. WOW!!

Denali Fatality He was well known in this small town. His family in in our thoughts.

This is what I use. It's from our local board here on Kodiak. How to post pics I have the free flickr, but you are limited on the number of pics total and a monthly limit also. Hope this helps

Trip: 2 weeks in Switzerland and France - Several Date: 9/29/2010 Trip Report: This trip started over two years ago when I met Alke during a 21-day mountaineering course in Alaska. We were both a little disappointed with the lack of technical climbing during the course with “guide training” in the title. We kept in touch and everything lined up for me to visit this fall. We decided two weeks would be the ideal amount of time. Day 1 I arrived in Geneva around1500 and Alke picked me up for the hour drive back to his beautiful hotel, Esprit Montagne , in La Chapelle d’Abondance, France. Hotel Esprit Montagne The view north from the hotel. Day 2 We drove for about an hour to Barme, Switzerland to a nice crag to get reacquainted climbing with each other. We climbed somewhere around 10 single pitch climbs and 3 or 4 two pitch climbs with beautiful surroundings and the sound of cowbells all day. The crag at Barme. The view from the crag. Day 3 We climbed La Marmottons, 5a (the Marmot) on Cornettes de Bise just outside of la Chapelle. It was a steady 400m+ hike to the base. Alke lead the first two pitches, 4c & 5a, that we combined into one on awesome limestone. I got the next two pitches, 4b & 3, that we also combined into one. At our second belay Alke told me to take the next lead, leaving the small overhanging crux pitch for him. Getting to the third belay Alke took the small rack and clipped the first two bolts, 5c. Not seeing how to get up to the third bolt he traversed right and up, somewhere along the way he lost his grip and fell. I tried pulling slack but seen he was headed right for me so I locked off and braced for the impact. Landing on my head and neck just as the rope came tight knocking my sunglasses off. I watched them tumble down the rock and land on a small ledge while we asked each other if we were all right. Alke took a minute or two then completed the climb. On the first rappel the rope didn’t reach the next set of anchors so I swung right and ended up slinging a horn for the next anchor picking up my glasses along the way. Everything was uneventful the rest of the way to the car. Cornettes de Bise Second pitch of La Marmottons The joys of climbing Day 4 Another hour’s drive put us in the parking lot for the Miroir d’ Argentine. We hiked up about an hour to the base of Voie Originale de I’Y (the Normal Route), AD+/II/P2 4c, 400m. I took the first pitch cruising up easy terrain. We swapped leads up until I got off route around pitch four. Instead of following the bolts (that I didn’t see) up the face I saw cord and webbing sticking out of a flake above me so I started up. Realizing I putting in my own gear and wasn’t passing any bolts I began to wonder about being on route. As I went up I was concerned with running out of rope. About 10m from the top of the flake I asked how much rope was left and he said no more than 15m. Thinking there had to be an anchor at the top of the flake I continued up. Once on top of it the only thing there was an old piton with some very weathered cord around it. I cut the cord and built an anchor using the old pin and belayed Alke up. We both expressed concern about being off route but I thought we could climb several cracks up and left to get back on route. Alke gave me the next lead and after 20m and four gear placements traversing up and left we were back on route. Everything went smoothly until we missed the second to last belay station due to it being covered in snow and continues up and right to the base of the summit block. We then had to traverse left along the summit block for 40m clipping old pins as our only protection. Topping out thru a notch in the center of the ridge I was surprised by the view. We then had a two plus hour walk to the car getting there just as it got dark. Miroir d' Argentine is the peak just right of center. Looking down to the car and across the valley. The flake where I got off route. Just over half way and heading for the obvious notch. The last pitch before the traverse. The view over the back side. Day 5 Rest day and going for a “walk”. We drove a short distance above La Chapelle and walked to a lake in a beautiful bowl then proceeded to climb 450m up to a ridge that we traversed that involved somewhere around 4b moves without climbing gear. It was a great day just not what I had in mind as a walk. More like a hike! Day 6 We hired a guide and headed to Point des Ecandies and did the south to north traverse D/II/5a. I forgot my gloves and by the time we got to the base it was snowing. I really didn’t like the first two pitches, as I couldn’t feel my hands. Warming them up in my armpits during the short belays along the way. It was very interesting to watch Bertrand climb in his boots as we had rock shoes on. I also learned a few things from him throughout the day. Very fun day of climbing in a spectacular setting!! Point des Ecandies. We went form left to right. Nearing the base. As you can see Bertrand was a ways ahead of us on the hike in. Bertrand and Alke Climbing along the ridge Down climbing snow in rock shoes = FUN! Day 7 A true rest day! No climbing, hiking or anything. Just planning the rest of the trip. With forecasts of snow we were trying to figure out what to climb. Wish I had a camera for Alke’s expression when we thought of skiing in Zermatt for the day. Day 8 Woke up early, ate breakfast and hit the road for Zermatt. We stopped in Tasch, north of Zermatt, and took the train, as there are no gas cars allowed in Zermatt. We took the lifts up to the glacier, passing the Matterhorn along the way. Once on top we ditched our packs at the restaurant and skied for two and a half hours, on October 6th!!! Once we were done skiing we ate some lunch grabbed our packs and started up the Breithorn (4165m). I knew it was a race against the clock as I have always had problems with AMS. About halfway up my head started hurting and I really couldn’t enjoy the summit to its fullest because of it. We took the East Ridge down, which involved a narrow ridge with relatively steep drops on each side. Just below the col my leg punched thru a snow bridge, but only went about knee deep. Made it to the lifts and headed down to the car then on to Saas-Grund and got a hotel. Skiing above Zermatt Heading up the Breithorn. Notice the two climbers to the left of the rocks? Summit of the Breithorn. Day 9 We slept in and went to get food for the next few days at the local grocery store. We then took the lift up out of Saas-Grund and walked an hour to the Weismeshuttun. Once we found the winter room of the hut we dropped our sleeping gear and headed for the base of the Jeigihorn (3206m) passing mountain goats along the way. Once at the base we found our route, Alpendurst AD+/II/4c 350m and headed up. It was very nice climbing and well protected with bolts every 2-3 meters. A little further spaced in the easier sections. Walking back to the hut we noticed we would have company for the night. Two guys from Belgium were on a weeklong climbing holiday and planning to climb Alpendurst the next day. Jeigihorn on the left. One of the locals on our hike to the Jeigihorn A few pitches up the Alpendurst. Day 10 We left the Weismeshuttun about 0630 and started walking around to the Almageller Hutte. We stopped at the Berghotel Almagellecalp for a sandwich along the way, getting to the Almageller Hutte around 12:30. We dropped our sleeping bags and headed for the base of the Dri Hornli. We traversed the ridge finding very few bolts along the way, placing some gear but usually just slinging horns. We got back to the hut just as it was getting dark. Two guys from the area offered us brawts and some sore of pasta. It was delicious. Leaving the Weismeshuttun. The Berghotel Almagellecap The Dri Hornli. We climbed it left to right. Along the Dri Hornli On top of the Dri Hornli. Day 11 People in the hut started to get up at 0430. We were the last ones up around 0600. I learned a valuable lesson that morning: always fill your water the night before because there won’t be enough left in the morning. We started up the boulder field on our way up the Weismise (4017m). I was actually doing better than expected as dehydrated as I was from the previous day. That changed about halfway from the col to the summit. My head started hurting and I slowed way down. Alke ended up taking the rope from me for the last few hundred meters before we roped up. When we got to what looked like the end of the ridge and a broad snowfield we roped up and put on our crampons. Crossing the snowfield I noticed another rocky ridge ahead. We crossed a knife-edge ridge to get to the upper rocky section. As we crested the rocky part I seen another snow dome ahead and thought, “Damn it, will this thing ever end”. We crossed another knife-edge ridge to the snow dome and as I crested over the top I saw Alke standing below me. The top was finally here. Half way I thought out loud. We didn’t spend much time on the summit and retraced our steps to the hut. Picking up our rock and sleeping gear and continuing down to the town of Saas-Almagell (1672m) totaling a decent of over 2345m (almost 7700ft). My feet hurt so badly towards the end I wanted to take my boots off and hike barefoot! We caught the bus back to Saas-Grund and to a hotel and shower. On our way down to Saas-Almagell Day 12 We took our time driving to Sustenpass, taking the long way and detouring a few times to sight see. We had lunch at Hotel Steingletscher. We then drove the private road the end parking lot. We made it up to the Teirbergli Hutte in just over 2:15. The hut was perched on a rock out cropping between the glacier and what seemed like a 1000m drop. The main door to the hut was open but most of the rooms were locked because it was closed for the season, only having the winter room open. The wind started to pick up around 1945 but forecasted to be good weather. The climbing possibilities are endless every where you look. The Gwachtenhorn with the road leading to the base. The Teibergli Hutte is on top of the black rocks below and right of the summit. A view from the shitter. Day 13 Probably the best nights sleep I got the whole trip. Over slept the alarm by an hour but got going quickly. We dropped down to the glacier and headed to the East Ridge of the Gwachtenhorn (3420m) following the beaten path over and through the crevasses. When we got to the ridge the wind picked up but the climbing was so good we didn’t really noticed. Moving quickly, only weaving the rope around blocks and using hip belays we were on top quickly taking pictures due to the wind and continuing down the west side back to the hut. The guidebook said it would take 3-4 hours up and 1.5-2 down. We went round trip from the hut in 4:15. We grabbed our sleeping gear and continued down to the car. We decided to take a “short cut” and drive by the Eiger on the way back to La Chapelle. Not sure how legal the short cut was as we think the road was for busses only, but no harm no foul. Heading to the ridge of the Gwachtenhorn. Alke along the ridge. Alke nearing the top of the ridge. Day 14 Drove to Champoussin where Alke worked when I met him. Beautiful views of the Dent di Midi across the valley. Met one of Alke’s old friends, an ex professional cricket player named PJ. Then drove to the Col de Jaman and walked to the Dent d’ Hautaudon (PD/I/3c, 250m) thinking we would have an easy last day of climbing. The ridge was easy climbing but had quite a bit of exposure with down climbing. The rock reminded me of Quikrete and didn’t feel solid even though it was. We both agreed that if a 4a climber tried it they would have a heck of a time. Above the clouds again. Our last climb of the trip. Right to Left. Day 15 0545 came awfully early. We were on the road by 0610 to the Geneva Airport, for me to catch my flight to Indiana to visit my parents. Thanks to Alke for climbing with me for two weeks! And this trip definitely couldn't have happened without two others: Anneke, Thanks for letting Alke climb with me and for the delicious food and your hospitality. And my wife Ginny for letting me chase my dreams halfway around the world missing her birthday again! Gear Notes: A light alpine rack with a few extra draws would work for everything we climbed. Approach Notes: KLM

Thanks. Yes the weather was GREAT!! Looking at first week in May next year if everything goes right.

Trip: Pika Glacier - Date: 5/22/2010 Trip Report: Without being hardcore climbers we were looking for someplace that had some easier climbing for our first trip into the range. We talked to several people and decided on spending a week on the Pika. Everyone we talked to, when asked about easier climbing around there all said "there's plenty of that around the Pika" but no details. So off we went. Denali Overland picked us up at the airport in Anchorage Saturday morning and took us up to Talkeetna. After sorting gear and talking with TAT we were able to fly in that evening, getting camp set up by about 9pm. Foraker on left & Denali on the right Waking up every morning to that view The first day we decided to just check out what was around so we skied up the glacier between Crown Jewel and the Munchkin. Since we only planed on scouting things out we didn't bring much gear. Of course we got to looking at the small peak just west of the Munchkin (Little Arapiles??) and started up. With the hot weather the snow slogging got old so we moved over to the rocks. It would have been fun easy climbing with less snow, but a little sporty with snow/ice over rock without crampons. Once we got off that we headed to the pass just south of the Trolls for a look around and then headed back to camp. A look down Glacier with Foraker at top right After talking with a friend in the AMS class camped next to us we decided to head down to The Hobbits Foot Stool for some easy rock as it had been a while since we had plugged gear. We did the right side of The Stool which turned out to be 5.5 or so. Great easy climbing in a beautiful location. The Foot Stool is the face in the upper left. On our way back from The Foot Stool we noticed a couloir cutting up the east face of Royal Tower just to the right of Gargoyle Buttress. Notes I had written from an AAJ said it was 6 mixed pitches above an 1800’ 60* couloir and done in May ’87. Couloir just left of center We set the alarm for 2:30am. Unfortunately there wasn’t a hard freeze that night and we discussed wether we wanted to go for it or not. After breakfast we decided we were already up and what the hell. After skiing to the base we started up the snow cone leading to the couloir sinking up to the knee/thigh until we crossed the bergschrund. The snow was firmer the higher we got and even got onto some ice, simu-climbing the whole way. About 1000’ up we broke into the sun. With the light freeze it didn’t take long for stuff to start coming down and the snow to turn too soft to comfortably climb. I set an anchor on the right side and belayed Joel up. We did five raps down the right side leaving single pins and nuts at each station. Rolling into camp about 8:30 spending the rest of the day sleeping and trying to stay cool. 3:00am Joel approaching our turn around spot. Me at our only belay and high point. Wednesday we skied up into the bowl between the Throne and Trolls this time bringing a light rack. We looked up Lost Marsupial and thought it looked within our ability and planned to try it the next day. We skied to the col just south of The Plunger and followed the ridge towards the Trolls. About the time we were going to turn around next to a rock pillar I seen a crack I wanted to try. Not proud to admit I had to step in a runner to get on the route out of the snow. After sewing it up I was on top of the pillar using a slung block to belay up Joel. Talkeetna is out there somewhere Not wanting to leave anything we found an exposed walk-off around the back side returning to our skis and Joel getting some good turns on his split board while I fought my way down in my leather boots and skis on our way back to camp. Thursday (the only day I forgot the camera) we headed back up to Lost Marsupial (Grade III, 5.8) and was on route at about 9:30. We took a leisurely pace up the blocky terrain. We aren’t sure if the bottom 5.8 pitch was covered in snow or we just bypassed it but didn’t come across anything down low above about 5.5. We simu-climbed some of the 3rd-4th class mid-route while climbing over rock and snow. The 5.6 crack went easier than expected except for the rock I kicked down hitting Joel in the knee. We got to within a half pitch below the ridge going to the top and noticed weather moving in from the valley. With the weather and snow conditions we decide to head down. For some reason we decided to do full length rappels (not recommended). Seems like rope management was complicated by terrain and rope length but, everything went OK until the last rap with our ropes not budging. I set my Reverso to auto-block mode and climbed back up to the anchor freeing the ropes and doing two 30m raps down to our packs and back to camp for the day. With Joel’s knee bothering him from the rock fall, climbing was out for the day. We decided to go for a ski and scout objectives for next time/year. While headed out of camp we stopped by the camp of a couple guys we saw coming in while we were on the Marsupial. Talking with the guys I recognized the voice of a guy who I had met/seen in Ouray the last two years. After talking a bit I agreed to take pics of the area further down the Pika. We skied down to the base of Italy’s Boot, across to Dragon’s Spine, and back to camp. Dragon's Spine Italy's Boot Lower part of the Pika With a pick up time from between 1-9pm on Saturday we called TAT and asked if they could give us a better guess as to what time they would be there. We told them we were ready and were told they would be there between noon and 2:00. At 11:30 we seen the 185 circling over head. We hurried and tore down the mid and drug the rest of our bags to the “runway” the AMS group stomped out several days ago when they left. After the longest takeoff roll of my life we were airborne and on our way back to Talkeetna for three dinners with dessert and that night. Overall it was a great trip with beautiful weather. Five out of eight days with sun and only a total of two hours of rain scattered over the other three days. Never thought I would ask for cooler weather during May in the Alaska Range. The snow was too soft for good climbing but there was too much snow for great rock climbing. On the flight out our pilot told us early May was the best time for snow/ice climbing on the Pika and mid June to July was best for rock, info that would have been helpful before the trip!! Can’t wait until next time I can get into the Range. Hopefully next spring!!!! Approach Notes: Denali Overland &TAT

John, May want to try alaskamountainforum.com or alaskaiceclimbing.com. Even if they aren't planning on it you may be able to get someone to give you a ride. Good luck!

I'm planning a trip to Little Switzerland the last week in May. We are looking for anything from 3rd/4th class snow/rock/ice scrambles up to about 5.7/AI3. I have the Supertopo but it doesn't give much info on the easier routes. The Talkeetna Ranger station didn't have much in there books either, but they all said "sure there is lots of that on the Pika". Anybody have any info on the easier routes around the area? As of now we are just going to show up and go for anything that looks fun.

If you are doing the Gulch in April chances are you won't be alone so I wouldn't let that stop you. Green Butte wouldn't be all that bad solo either, but with fewer people around. Casaval has a nice bench at around 9000' (if I remember correctly) to set a camp. Not much above that until you get to the area just below the summit. There can be some pretty exposed spots higher on the ridge that can be intimidating. They say you should only do the ridges with ample snow cover due to kicking rocks down onto climbers in the Gulch. Hope this helps.

In response to Bob's #6 above: While in Ouray during the ice fest I was watching a clinic being held. Some of the people were doing mock leads and were told to place 3-4 screws then climb about 10-15' above there last one and jump. The top rope belayer paid out enough slack for them to take the fall on the screw. I couldn't believe what I was seeing!!! All I could think of was one of them were going to catch a point and break an ankle. The reason given was to know if you placed a good screw and be willing to trust it. Am I missing something here? I know what a good and a bad screw feels like going into the ice. I also know that good screws will hold in a fall and trust that.

I've flown to Dutch many times and always wanted to spend some time there to ski & climb. There are a couple 200-300 ft waterfalls to the NW of town out by Eider PT. Don't know how long it would take to get there but looked like a road within a mile or so of it. Looks a lot like Kodiak only more snow.

When will you be down there? I'll be down there the 5th-12th and have a spare set of tools (BD Rage) I could bring. And will be bringing everything else if you wanted to climb with us. Also have a spare helmet I could bring if I have the room. As a new climber in Ouray you don't need screws. 90% of the climbs have anchors at the top for top roping. All you need is webbing/cord for anchor, a few lockers, a belay device, and the normal rope/harness and such. As said before if you are going just for the fest you can demo everything you need! Oh yea, and know how to use all the above!!

Condo plans fell through. Let me know if you will be down there between the 6th and the 13th as I am always looking for people to climb with.

Comfort Inn has places as of Friday. Very climber friendly (25% off for park members). Typical hotel for the kid friendly aspect. Parked the car there last year and never moved it until the last day when we went to the hot springs. And free breakfast!

Highly recommend going to an ice fest. For the price you can't beat the clinics. Plus you can meet people from all over looking to get out and climb. Went to Ouray last year and going back again this year. If you are on the fence about a clinic being to hard my recommendation is to take it. I took a couple last year that I felt I could have spent my time better in a more advanced clinic. Don't get me wrong you will learn a lot even in the basic clinics but even the more advanced ones review the basics. Get your ice park membership soon because you get a discount and clinics open up Nov 6th. The good ones fill fast. Ouray Clinics If you decide to go to Ouray between Jan 5th and the 11th let me know and maybe we could climb together. Pat