climbingcoastie

If you are doing the Gulch in April chances are you won't be alone so I wouldn't let that stop you. Green Butte wouldn't be all that bad solo either, but with fewer people around. Casaval has a nice bench at around 9000' (if I remember correctly) to set a camp. Not much above that until you get to the area just below the summit. There can be some pretty exposed spots higher on the ridge that can be intimidating. They say you should only do the ridges with ample snow cover due to kicking rocks down onto climbers in the Gulch. Hope this helps.

In response to Bob's #6 above: While in Ouray during the ice fest I was watching a clinic being held. Some of the people were doing mock leads and were told to place 3-4 screws then climb about 10-15' above there last one and jump. The top rope belayer paid out enough slack for them to take the fall on the screw. I couldn't believe what I was seeing!!! All I could think of was one of them were going to catch a point and break an ankle. The reason given was to know if you placed a good screw and be willing to trust it. Am I missing something here? I know what a good and a bad screw feels like going into the ice. I also know that good screws will hold in a fall and trust that.

I've flown to Dutch many times and always wanted to spend some time there to ski & climb. There are a couple 200-300 ft waterfalls to the NW of town out by Eider PT. Don't know how long it would take to get there but looked like a road within a mile or so of it. Looks a lot like Kodiak only more snow.

When will you be down there? I'll be down there the 5th-12th and have a spare set of tools (BD Rage) I could bring. And will be bringing everything else if you wanted to climb with us. Also have a spare helmet I could bring if I have the room. As a new climber in Ouray you don't need screws. 90% of the climbs have anchors at the top for top roping. All you need is webbing/cord for anchor, a few lockers, a belay device, and the normal rope/harness and such. As said before if you are going just for the fest you can demo everything you need! Oh yea, and know how to use all the above!!

Condo plans fell through. Let me know if you will be down there between the 6th and the 13th as I am always looking for people to climb with.

Comfort Inn has places as of Friday. Very climber friendly (25% off for park members). Typical hotel for the kid friendly aspect. Parked the car there last year and never moved it until the last day when we went to the hot springs. And free breakfast!

Highly recommend going to an ice fest. For the price you can't beat the clinics. Plus you can meet people from all over looking to get out and climb. Went to Ouray last year and going back again this year. If you are on the fence about a clinic being to hard my recommendation is to take it. I took a couple last year that I felt I could have spent my time better in a more advanced clinic. Don't get me wrong you will learn a lot even in the basic clinics but even the more advanced ones review the basics. Get your ice park membership soon because you get a discount and clinics open up Nov 6th. The good ones fill fast. Ouray Clinics If you decide to go to Ouray between Jan 5th and the 11th let me know and maybe we could climb together. Pat

USGS Store Click Map Locator Follow directions on right side of map Download away Good for entire US I have used maps from this site for many skiing, hiking, and hunting trips.

I'm looking at going down again this year. Might get a condo and try to put as many people in it as possible to save money. I'll keep you posted. Pat

I'm still looking for someone to climb with this Monday and Tuesday. Have wheels and rack.

Welcome to Kodiak!!! Sent you a PM.

I'll be in the Seattle area to climb this Saturday-Wednesday and looking for partners. I am looking at getting in as much trad as I can. I can lead in the 5.6 range and follow a little harder. pm or text me if you are interested. Pat 907-942-3445

Looking for a partner for any/all of above dates. Thinking along the lines of Hood, Adams, Shasta(any 1 or 2). Live in Sacramento so can pick you up along the way if need be.