MCash

Wayne, Could you post an annotated photo showing the lines and grades in that area? It is hard to come by beta on what line in what over there. Thanks.

The Metolius pad is ok, the Cordless one is good.

Cool. As long as you're working that area, how about including the basalt columns along the river between Wenatchee and Leavenworth. Perhaps this is Mission Creek or Derby Canyon? I don't know the names. On Squak Pinnacles, are you talking about Peshastin or another area nearby?

Cool, sounds fun. Any pics?

Nice solo dude. Thanks for the conditions report.

March 18th.

Interesting post. I have only been on 4 routes at Chimney, but I thought Cooper Hiser was the worst. What's so great about it? The only memorable parts were the very start of the first pitch, the short little handcrack left of the chimney on the second pitch, and passing through the tunnel (if finishing over there). The rest of it is highly broken with loose rock and loose flakes. It's an ok route, but look around you, there are several mega classic routes on the east face and that isn't one of them. I'll have to try camping on top, sounds like fun.

Cool photos. Here you go... #2

Yeah, but we need our fix. I'm ready for killer postholing on Sunday.

Scene #4 - Grady Roberts rappels off the anchors of one of Dane Burn's all traditional perfectly protectable routes at Dishman, gridbolting it at 3' on center on the way down so it "is safe to climb now." Scene #5 - Grady Roberts rappels down the Dishman cliff frusterated by a harder section of rock on a perstective line and chips it and glues a plastic hold on, then publicly proclaims it to be his masterpiece. It seams that many Spokane area climbers fully support #4 and #5, and in fact would like to do that themselves. Maybe Pope and Dwayner are pissed because the ethics of so many climbers these days Fucking Suck.

So what's the scoop? What did you try to climb? Did anything look in?

I'd have to agree with Marty Bland on this one. The first Smoot guide was littered with erroneous route info, grades, and locations. Local guidebooks do a much better job giving beta on an area. How can 1 guy climb every route in the entire state? He can't. Where does he get the beta from on routes he didn't climb? Copied from local guidebooks? I hope this didn't come accross too harsh, but please don't publish a second edition of the guidebook.

Chestbeat in the Lost & Found Forum.

What walls at Little Si get winter sun?

Regularly is 2 to 4 weekends per month, weather permitting. I'm sure I could put on 60k if I didn't have this M-F job.

I have never put on less than 30k since I started alpine climbing regularly.

You got the wrong guy there Marko. The Joe we were referring to posted on this board a couple weeks ago. Must be there are 2 of them.

A 5.7 on the south face too. http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/2275/object_id/1805

It's left of Party In Your Pants, and is 10B offwidth. The book says 4 stars. A friend of mine has climbed it and like it very much. He said it is much cleaner and more sustained than Steel Grill.

I have Anasazis too. Great for Smith style sport climbing, horrible in cracks.

Madrock Frenzy Lace

My favorite gym would have a combination of thin slabs using real granite, slightly overhanging sport climbing on plastic, and a bunch of cracks using real granite. It wouldn't be that hard. Rough cut granite is not outragously expensive if purchased from a stone importer. Granite is cheap from Malasia and China. I've purchased a bunch on the some of the construction jobs I've managed. Sure, it would be a lot more than plastic, but come-on gym owners, we're worth it!