MCash

I have Anasazis too. Great for Smith style sport climbing, horrible in cracks.

Madrock Frenzy Lace

My favorite gym would have a combination of thin slabs using real granite, slightly overhanging sport climbing on plastic, and a bunch of cracks using real granite. It wouldn't be that hard. Rough cut granite is not outragously expensive if purchased from a stone importer. Granite is cheap from Malasia and China. I've purchased a bunch on the some of the construction jobs I've managed. Sure, it would be a lot more than plastic, but come-on gym owners, we're worth it!

I bet it would be out of season by July the last couple of years. I looked into climbing it a couple years ago, in early August, and it was way out of condition. Not even close. My advise would be June.

Thanks for the report. How about Trotsky's Folly and Revenge, the stuff to the left of the Punchbowl? Leadable?

NYC007 told me that Chilco and Indian Canyon were in. I'm sure Copper is in by now.

Kurt, what is that second falls? I see it's supposed to be 14 below zero in Spokane on Thursday night. That stuff might actually freeze!

http://www.spokanemountaineers.org/public_html/images/application.pdf

Yeah right. He hasn't paid his dues in like 2 years. An outcast.

Yes, it's the east face of Chimney Rock, Idaho.

If you like the wide stuff, try this bad boy. The Magnum Force, descibed to me as the hardest 10B on the planet.

Nice shots of TUIB. Do you have any of the other 4 you climbed?

I'd have to say my favorite is Fun Roof on Chimney Rock, Idaho. Super fun pitch (imagine that).

76% humidity on the moon?

Looks like an interesting program. I like that pic of Johnny G. at Tum Tum.

Well rounded diet Amino Acid Tablets and Multivitamins after workout Creative Effervecent before workout

Nice post. How about bolts on the tops of the pillars to belay from? This would allow toproping of some of the harder routes, but leaders can still top out. I agree that chain anchors at the top of every crack would diminish the experience of the climbing at the Coulee. I've noticed that Stems and Seeds already has bolts on the column top, but the hangers have been removed. I'll bring some new ones and a way to keep them from being removed the next time I go out there. Pillar top bolting too requires discretion. For example, Middle East Wall has tons of loose rubble on top. It is a nightmare to top out there. Chain anchors are better. Good routes like Crazy Fingers would clean up and see much more attention that way. A strong experienced climber that I've climbed with out there expressed a concern about bolting all of the tops. He thought that would diminish the experience, and that you should follow the harder cracks until you can lead them. That is definately old school, but I think that argument has some merit. I personally would like to be able to easily toprope routes like Stems and Seeds, when I'm not climbing with a stronger climber. The TR off Hakuna Matata sucks because it pulls you to the left as you go up. Any other thoughts?

I believe that variation is on the wall just right of the Devil's Kitchen Headwall variations. It connects up to the Wy'East route just below the crux couloir to the summit ridge. Here is a photo I took 2 years ago. I'm not exactly sure where the line is, but it probably doesn't matter. Looks like multiple variation starting from the lower right angling up and to the left. Here is a blowup of the upper section from last year.

I also saw a waterfall on the creekbed approach to Stevens where the stream climbs steeply up the slopes near the "headwall". It is probably WI2 or 2+, though. Might be good for running laps after doing a winter ascent of Stevens. Joe Lind did a first ascent last year of a waterfall on the soude wall of the Pyramid Lake cirque. That would be fun too. It's probably in already, since it's at almost 7,000 feet.

Has anyone been up any of the moderate couloirs in southwest Montana recently? Any alpine ice, or just snow? I'm particularly interested in the Northeast Couloir on Warren Peak and the Crazy Couloir on Crazy Peak. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Klenke must be feeling ill, that peak is not on COHP.org or the 100 prominent list. Nice job on your climb.

I'm looking for a partner for some trad climbing next week. Leavenworth, Wa Pass, Vantage, Tieton, or Chimney Rock, Idaho. The weather forecast looks really promising. Drop me a PM or email me at the address in my profile, if interested.

For Dishman, Minne, or Post Falls, pick up a copy of the Bland Guide at Mountain Gear on North Division or Mountain Goat at 12 West Sprague. Death Fall Wall at Post Falls stays pretty dry during rain. I haven't bouldered at Tubs Hill yet, but I'm pretty sure there is no guide out for it. If you are looking for Trad Climbing, Minne and Tum Tum are the places to go. I believe there are a couple crack climbs at McLellan, but I haven't been on them. If you want to climb sport, there are many, many options of all difficulty levels. Post Falls has the most bolted 5.10 and 5.11 routes, while Deep Creek, or one of the 3 limestone crags would be best for 5.12s and 5.13s. The snow in Northern Idaho did not stick. Some friends of mine just climbed the Lions Head which is about the same height and near Chimney, and they said it was nice and dry. If the weather is good in Spokane, and atleast 60 degrees, you will be able to climb Chimney just fine. The SP page that Klenke linked to will give you all the beta you need for approaching. You will need a high clearance vehicle for the road in. I posted a couple route pages to it, check them out. I have a copy of the Randall Greene guidebook for Chimney, you can borrow it if you like. The Lopez guide only has a couple routes, don't bother with it. PM me if you are looking for a partner for Chimney.

Next time you go try... 272 - 5.8 double cracks in left facing corner. Left crack is tips to fingers. Right crack is 4" to 2". Very nice route. Here is looking up at it... Theresa's Lingerie - Really nice 5.9 handcrack. Starts out a bit wide, then slims down to 2" with another 4" buldge near the top. Good jambs at the the crux. I didn't care for the 5.10A crack between them. Chunky, and mostly face climbing. Not very good jambs. Sex Party is known to be the best 10A at Vantage. Unlike the other 3, it is full column height (80 feet, or so), so bring lots of hand sized pieces. You can toprope Lingerie (11d) off the same anchors.

Interesting that Wayne doesn't mention the Complete Northwest Ridge on Logan. Has someone else done that thing?