MCash

Don Quixote and The Hooker at Minne both took me a while to get up. I'll have to go back and try to redpoint both of them sometime.

Matt's (NYC007) advise is right on. You sound like you want to bag the top. You are probably only interested in the easiest route then. The West Face standard route is rated class 5.3, 3 pitches. The grades at Chimney are original oldschool, and will feel very stiff if you are used to the grades at sport crags. The standard route would probably be a 5.6 in Leavenworth, in my opinion. You should learn how to trad climb at your local crag, until you are proficient at 5.7, would be my advice. That shouldn't take very long.

Why would you want to climb on Basalt with a forecast like this? Think Granite or Alpine.

Derek Hersey tribute - Exceptional The Wasp redpoint - Excellent Lock of Rages first redpoint - Very Good Urban Ape - Very Good That was most of the film. Boring as hell, eh? You're probably a boulderer or something. Go back to watching Rampage.

Let's take each climb as a case. What exactly do you propose K. Rose? Please present the names of the climbs you wish to add anchors too. In general, I am in favor of anchors for routes of Middle East Wall due to the choss on top. I helped beef up the anchor on Crazy Fingers last October. I am opposed to new chain anchors on crack climbs on Sunshine Wall though. The topouts of most of them are great, with good gear to bring up your second. Many of the climbs like TUIB are very popular, and things have been done this way for decades. There is no reason to degrade the route now, by eliminating the last 8 feet of climbing. If you placed those anchors on TUIB, please remove them. Good discussion.

Right on Craig, there is a perfect gear anchor up there. I agree that they should be removed. That is an easy climb (11worth 5.8), there is no need to be toproping it to death.

Biscuit Part 2! Sick!!! I'm sure the rest of the movie will be excellent, considering the quality of the original Front Range Freaks.

On the Condor Buttress. Suprisingly nice views up there.

Graybeard

I din't make it to the top of this mountain.

Saturday

The Jam Exam and Inca Roads are both nice 5.9 cracks at the Royal Columns. They are similar in difficulty to the 10A cracks at Vantage, and the 5.9 cracks in 11worth I've done. Orange Sunshine is really nice. It is only 5.9, until the last 20 feet, which is 10B, but is easy to toprope if you don't want to lead it. There are lots of easier routes to warm up on like Mush Maker and X Factor.

Looking for a partner for some cragging on Saturday, Sunday, or both. The forecast looks pretty good. http://www.weather.com/activities/other/other/weather/weekend.html?locid=USWA0227 I can drive, PM me if interested.

Both Es are silent on that one.

The Bugs article in Rock & Ice was nice.

Option #1 - Climb basalt cracks in 60 degree weather and partial sunshine. Option #2 - Drive to any other Washington Crag and watch it rain, then drive home and clean the cat litter box and scrub the toilet. Option #1 seamed like the way to go.

I'm sure you're right. I was just giving one example of how it felt for me, for arguments sake. Many of the basalt cracks like Sex Party, Tangled Up In Blue, and Air Guitar are easy for the grade.

Sex Party Slim and Curvy

I don't lead 11C or 12A trad, but I thought Cocaine Crack was quite a bit easier than George and Martha's (both rated 5.10A). However, the bottom 20 feet of Angel Crack feels far harder than either of them.

We climbed yesterday 3/20. One correction, the fingercrack we climbed is Slim and Curvy 5.10B, not Thin and Curvy. Good stuff, I'll post a couple photos tonight.

How wide is Carnival Crack? #5 friend, #6 friend?

Yeah, cool pic. Post some more please. I doubt that most of the people heckling you have tried the Girth Pillar in winter. Maybe jealousy?

Larry Peterman didn't do it, or do you mean in it's current condition? I was playing around on Don last year shooting the shit with these 2 guys, and they told me this story of "this crazy dude named Marty" bouldering up the seam to the first roof, then asking for a belay. Did you lead it cleanly? Dane or Bob would probably know.

Actually, I'm just Thankful you made me a copy.