selkirk

a few years ago I tweaked a rotator cuff playing volleyball and they put me on 600mg naproxen (stuff that's in Aleve) twice a day for 3 weeks, and of course complete rest. Did wonders and felt fine when I was done. Use the same technique for tendinitis in my left wrist every now and again. THat shit truly sucks though! For those of you with creaky fingers, be nice now or pay triple for it later.

Zebra-Zion linkup, 5.10 (for 1 move), 4 p. (but 2 pitches with sustained 5.8/5.9)

quick-draws on trad gear is bad juju. They tend to cause more wiggle than a single length sling will. Saw a good friend pop 3 out of 8 pieces on a single 25m pitch with a relatively straight rope line. Slings done up quickdraw style work fine on bolts, but it doesn't go the other way. If you really like the dogbones though just buy the draws, strip the biners and throw them slings when your climbing trad. I tend to be overly cautious but I think 12-15 slings for a trad pitch is about right. If it's a full length pitch that's somewhat stiff (5.8ish?) I usually want 14 or so. And for 25m crag stuff I seem to end up wanting somewhere between 8 and 11 pieces. As for the distribution of slings? I use 8 singles and 4 doubles. Seems to work out pretty well. If your doing lots of alpine stuff you'll probably want more doubles though.

For me it's all been mental, and getting comfortable with committing moves. Of course I also suck so that's probably not that useful to you! Well and of course mileage on lead. From what i've seen climbing up to 10a or so is all about headspace and footwork.

Wasn't particularly challenging but I had a fantastic jaunt up Sahalee in Sept. Blue Bird skies and a nice mellow pace! Was just lots of fun. on rock it would have to be Zebra Zion this spring, that top pitch f-in and Kunza this fall, never been quite so committed to small gear, and bumped me up anothe grade All in all a very good year seeing as i've been a lazy ass and haven't really been training like I should.

Do you really want to ask that question?

woohoo! In that case a nice drink to celebrate should be in order.

I think you win! Is that a good think? Or does there need to be drinking and commiseration?

I thought you wanted 9 1/2? Please stop confusing me!

mmmmm, or Oatmeal Stout, that's stuff's yummy. You just need to find the right dark beer! The bitter stuff takes a while to get used to.

Try a Guinness at the Galway Arms in the U-district sometime. That stuff tastes like Milk it's fabulous! It's much smoother there than other places i've had it, though I have no idea why.

Drinking heavily and digging holes. Should be loads of fun!

man, you must be incredibly bored to be reading it then. You really should have known better!

Is that the fungus talking again? You know, i'd be shocked if you hadn't inhaled some and it was slowly taking over.

No.

Someone's on their spray game today! Give us another one!

damnit!

Or Central market. All foods are just a vehicle for chocolate though. How do you think mole' developed?

just what every new, hip, bouldering chick needs. Seriously sytlin handbags and accessories!

Nope, I managed to miss it. What were were you dressed up as though?

I didn't realize you had been climbing more than a couple of years. A full tape job is indicated for certain routes (e.g. Royal Flush) or for multi-day climbing trips to preserve skin (a week in the creek), or for certain rock types (handcracks at Josh). Taping to support tendons while gym climbing is at least psychologically beneficial and maybe even physically. Tape is aid. This thread will go for 6 pages. I've only been lead climbing and throwing gear for 2 years. But I was roped up and climbing for the first time 23 years ago and have been futzing around with cracks and tape for 5 or 6 years

That's a very well trained dog!

In southern Idaho, they actually used to renew people licenses by mail. Which seems like a good idea. Of course they also renewed my great-grandfathers drivers liscense by mail when he 96 (might have been 98?), could only see out of one eye and was deaf as a doornail.

After climbing without tape for a couple of years, you learn how to place your hands softly as well, and not to trash them. If I were out for a long, multiday crack climb I probably would but for 2 or 3 days with some recovery time afterwords the minor scrapes and rubs heal fine. Well, that, and chicks dig scars so...

As memory serves you lowering increases the force on the anchor by a factor of 1.6 (when compared to a simple rap). Rapping has 1/2 your bodyweight on each strand. Lowering has your bodyweight on each of the strands (roughly).