selkirk

Soy-lent bio-diesel? or would Soy-lent ethanol be easier to manufacture?

How about pickles? All Honey Hole sandwiches come with pickles you know.

Heh, just because you can't find your way there isn't any reason to pout! That does sound rather dirty doesn't it.

So... what are eveyrone's favorite lunch spots in Seattle? I just finished eating at the Honey Hole and boy was it tasty!

mmmm, organics. Has any one else ever drank the water out in the rainforest? I remember stuff that even after running it through a filter still looked like tea!

I imagine because the area's effectively off limits to people. As memory serves isn't seattle water drawn from a watershed that is effectively offlimits to everyone? So I would imagine they're negligible polution, and probably only minor treatment to take care of things like giardia. But don't many cities draw theyre freshwater from major, public rivers? Of course i'm talking out of my ass so just going to shut the hell up now

poor snugtop! I'm sure you can find something better to do at 10:00 at night. Of course i'm on here at 8:30 in the morning so what the hell do I know?

You might try the Montrail CTC's for shoes. My wife has been pretty happy with hers. There more an approach shoe than rock shoe so they seem to handle abuse and mud reasonably well, but they edge ok, and have montrails version of climbing rubber on them, so they're reasonably sticky. I don't know about padding, or impact absorbtion though. I'd second the soft-shell pants idea. They're a bit too heavy for warm summer temps and running, but very abbrasion resistant, stretchy, wind-proof, water resistant, yada, yada, yada. The only hole i've managed in mine was self inflicted with crampons i've been wearing the same pair for 2 years of reasonable abuse. While the breathe, it probably won't keep up with really aerobic stuff in warm temps though. (the REI Mistrals are pretty good, and cheaper than most).

I use the trippled draws all the time, and rarely extend them, they're still much more flexible in this configuration than sport draws are though. However if all you have are dogbones that's not an option. As for the accident, the last thing I remember hearing was that they though the cam placement walked in deeper causing the biner-gate to wedge open, and part of the reason the cam likely walked is that it was clipped to the rope with a short, stiff sport draw. Out of curiosity, how often do you two clip directly to cam slings, or to trad gear using dogbones?

How often around here are the cracks dead vertical splitters where the rope line doesn't vary any further than your hips wiggle? For cracks like those it doesn't make much difference how long and flexible your draws are. As memory serves didn't short stiff draws on trad gear contribute to a rather severe accident at Vantage not to long ago. And on plumb straight crack as well.

She was climbing Moonshine dihedral, and the shortness of the draws led to the pieces being pulled sideways, which popped several nuts out while she was still on lead. And she's normally pretty good about her gear. And quickdraws are great on bolts. I just personally don't trust them on trad gear, I don't think they're flexible enough. And your right people have been using them on gear for ages, but that doesn't mean it's the best way or that there isn't the potential for it to cause problems. 2 wiregates and some of the little mammut slings is definitely the way to go in my book.

a few years ago I tweaked a rotator cuff playing volleyball and they put me on 600mg naproxen (stuff that's in Aleve) twice a day for 3 weeks, and of course complete rest. Did wonders and felt fine when I was done. Use the same technique for tendinitis in my left wrist every now and again. THat shit truly sucks though! For those of you with creaky fingers, be nice now or pay triple for it later.

Zebra-Zion linkup, 5.10 (for 1 move), 4 p. (but 2 pitches with sustained 5.8/5.9)

quick-draws on trad gear is bad juju. They tend to cause more wiggle than a single length sling will. Saw a good friend pop 3 out of 8 pieces on a single 25m pitch with a relatively straight rope line. Slings done up quickdraw style work fine on bolts, but it doesn't go the other way. If you really like the dogbones though just buy the draws, strip the biners and throw them slings when your climbing trad. I tend to be overly cautious but I think 12-15 slings for a trad pitch is about right. If it's a full length pitch that's somewhat stiff (5.8ish?) I usually want 14 or so. And for 25m crag stuff I seem to end up wanting somewhere between 8 and 11 pieces. As for the distribution of slings? I use 8 singles and 4 doubles. Seems to work out pretty well. If your doing lots of alpine stuff you'll probably want more doubles though.

For me it's all been mental, and getting comfortable with committing moves. Of course I also suck so that's probably not that useful to you! Well and of course mileage on lead. From what i've seen climbing up to 10a or so is all about headspace and footwork.

Wasn't particularly challenging but I had a fantastic jaunt up Sahalee in Sept. Blue Bird skies and a nice mellow pace! Was just lots of fun. on rock it would have to be Zebra Zion this spring, that top pitch f-in and Kunza this fall, never been quite so committed to small gear, and bumped me up anothe grade All in all a very good year seeing as i've been a lazy ass and haven't really been training like I should.

Do you really want to ask that question?

woohoo! In that case a nice drink to celebrate should be in order.

I think you win! Is that a good think? Or does there need to be drinking and commiseration?

I thought you wanted 9 1/2? Please stop confusing me!

mmmmm, or Oatmeal Stout, that's stuff's yummy. You just need to find the right dark beer! The bitter stuff takes a while to get used to.

Try a Guinness at the Galway Arms in the U-district sometime. That stuff tastes like Milk it's fabulous! It's much smoother there than other places i've had it, though I have no idea why.

Drinking heavily and digging holes. Should be loads of fun!

man, you must be incredibly bored to be reading it then. You really should have known better!

Is that the fungus talking again? You know, i'd be shocked if you hadn't inhaled some and it was slowly taking over.