wfinley

My old dry rope is still intact enough for another season of mountain cllimbing -- however it has lost it's dry coating and ices up quite quickly. Is it possible to re-treat an old dry rope? If so how?

If you're headed up the Orient Express to the 17 camp then all you'll need is snow / ice gear. I suggest 2 pickets and 2 screws per person. If you opt to go through the rock bands climbers R of the OE - then I suggest a selection of small to medium pins along with the pickets / screws. (Going up through the rock bands is great fun!) If you opt to not use any pro going up or down the OE then get rid of your rope -- too many people have died or had serious injuries in that very spot. I also highly suggest you use a running belay of pickets or screws going both up and down the OE; in '98 my partner and felt like the slope was easy and we ran it out without pro. We fell and he passed away as a result. 24 hours after our accident we watched two others do exactly what we did. They both lived but suffered serious injuries.

I tried the MT in late May once. The entire mountain was creaking, popping and moving. The slope we started up whoomped on us and we hightailed it home. Many FAs back in the 60s/70s were done later (July and even August) but in general, the AK Range is getting warmer and you want to go earlier.

What type of routes are you looking at? The Ruth has everything from wild to mild so you need to be specific; i.e. - snow, ice or rock; steepness / your comfort level etc.. Also - fly with Talkeetna Air Taxi - IMHO they're the best.

Dudes... you are preaching to the choir. Tell it to the (wo)man: tpaquet@fs.fed.us

Tell Teresa that -- you won't see any Wolverine if this goes through.

Glacier City Snowmobile Tours has submitted a proposal to move their summertime operation from the Spencer Glacier to the Eagle Glacier. They are requesting an opening of approximately 3 square miles for a “handful” of snowmachines. Access to the glacier will be via fixed wing and helicopter. Glacier City Tours will maintain two tents and an outhouse on the glacier and are requesting 450 service days (a service day is 1 user day / person). For those of you who are unaware of the area, the Eagle Glacier lies N of Girdwood and is the start (or end depending on direction) of the world-famous Eklutna Traverse. The Ekulutna Traverse is a 40 mile glacier traverse that travels across 3 glaciers and has 3 huts along the way. The huts are maintained by the Mountaineering Club of Alaska and the trip is one of the best hut to hut trips worldwide. Glacier City is claiming that their operation will not interfere with the mountaineering route – and they claim they they will not be going near the hut. But the access to this route will pass straight through their territory – and anyone who has ever skied near snowmachines knows that is one is within 5 miles you know they’re there! Below are contact points where you can express your opinion. Teresa Paquet Special Uses Specialist Glacier Ranger District, Chugach National Forest 907-754-2314, (fax) 907-783-2094 PLEASE write, fax or call and express your concern over this proposed opening. Even if you’ve never been to Alaska call and say you’re concerned. Imagine going to do the Haute Route and having to ski past snowmachines… that’s what it will be like if this goes through. Teresa did say that comments that offer some sort of alternative will be most looked at. Personally I think is bogus… they have an alternative – the Spencer Glacier. However concerns such as safety (imagine skiing roped up past some Florida tourist out for an “adventurous” snowmachine tour), wildlife (there won’t be any if snowmachines are buzzing about), increased helicopter traffic over the tiny Girdwood Valley, not to mention the fact that you’ll now have to share the 2000’ descent to the Eagle Glacier hut with a bunch of motorhead tourist. So once again… please call, write, fax, ask them to post maps, notices etc.. Your input will make a difference. More info can be found on the CNF site here: http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/chugach/news_releases/glacier_city/glacier_city_tours.html See the attachment for a pic of Eagle Glacier.

Wanted to Buy: Scarpa Inverno size 6.5. Email me: wfinley at couloirgraphics.com

I climbed Mt Michelson last summer --- email me directly and I'll give you detailed beta (wfinley at couloirgraphics.com).

Just FYI in case someone reads this -- climbed Crossan, Kahiltna Dome and Francis. If you want beta or pix email me at wfinley at couloirgraphics.com and I'll post.

Looking for beta on peaks in the Kahiltna Glacier area -- we're intersted in E & W Kahiltna, Pk 12,000 (on the S Buttress Route), Francis and anything else anyone can recommend. Thanks! Billy Finley

Hi - I'm intersted in a little more beta about the mini-moonflower couloir. When did you do it (time of year) - gear, route beta etc. and anything else you think we should know! Thanks! Billy Finley