KaskadskyjKozak

looks aside, Vizslas are the best hiking dog!

Trip: Lost Peak and Carru - Standards Trip Date: 09/23/2018 Trip Report: This has been a frustrating summer. Smoke and/or bad weather thwarted a few of my trips. With summer waning quickly and snow coming I decided to do a midweek trip, starting on a rainy Sunday and ending three days later. Also, larches. It's been too long since I got a good larch trip in. Oh, and since I couldn't find partners last minute and midweek - solo it (well, I brought my dog). Although I've solo'd many day trip scrambles, I've only done one overnighter before (Robinson) so this stepped it up a notch. On Sunday I packed for most of the afternoon and drove up to Mazama around 7:30. It was dry on the East Side until I got as far north as Kirkland or Bothell. From then on there was rain, sometimes pouring. At least this was the case until Darrington... and towards Rockport. Eventually things became drier as I passed the passes on Hwy 20 and started down the hairpin. I parked at the Monument Creek TH and slept in my truck. The weather was good all night (cloudy, no rain) and I headed up towards Slate's Pass around 7 am. As I passed the exposed hairpin the weather became increasingly socked in, and it was actually lightly snowing at the Slate Pass TH. Good times. This reminded me of my previous trip to the area where I hiked in the first 6-7 miles in the rain. Oh well, time to HTFU and go. The hike in went well. It took about 6.5 hours to get to Doris Lake and another 2+ hours to the meadows below Shellrock Pass. The weather got better the farther in I got and was dry at camp. We ate dinner and got water ready just in time for it to start raining. Bed time at 6:30! It snowed and rained lightly all night and the tent had a lot of condensation. By 6 am it was clear and we were up and moving soon. We made short work of the hike to Shellrock Pass and started to descend the E side. The trail started out clear and easy to follow, then hit meadows where occasional cairns marked the way and were not too hard to link up. After crossing the small stream we soon hit the recent fire burnout (from last year I believe). At first I could follow cairns and a lighter-colored line through the blackened earth. Then it was all cross country. I overshot the proper trail turnoff (Monument Creek Trail) I believe and aimed for the notch directly next to the W base of point 7275 on the ridge. The last 150 feet or so were up a very blocky gully. At this point the weather was getting bad - fog was rolling in with a lot of wind. I wasn't worried yet though. I climbed up and over point 7275 and dropped to the next saddle (~7000') then ascended to 7700' and began traversing. Now I was worried about the weather. The boulders were covered with a thin layer of snow and were slippery. It was getting more socked in, cold and miserable. I knew I had at least 1.5 miles of this traverse and could not see the top of Lost Peak. Nevertheless I kept going, hoping hypothermia would not be an issue. My pup seemed fine. As I rounded the first pair of humps in the ridge (Pass Butte), the rock became dry and snow-free and that helped with my morale. It was still not very clear up high though. I traversed under Point 8107 and could see lighter colored, sandier terrain ahead. I moved onto that. Then the the fog lifted and I could see the summit of Lost and realized I had traversed farther than necessary and headed straight up to the summit. Time up? 6 hours. Uggh. At least I was done, but I doubted I could tag Blackcap on the way out with the late start and shorter fall days. Summit shots on Lost Peak: Looking back at Lost Peak: Tres Bulger Hombres from Shellrock Pass at sunset: After some time up top, we headed down, retracing our steps. We had more trouble than expected finding the trail back. Once past the burnout I just headed towards Shellrock offtrail including steep heather slopes and meadows. We only located the trail at the stream crossing. As expected we got to Shellrock Pass too late to get Blackcap and dropped down to camp instead. It was dusk and about 7:45. We quickly ate and crashed. Up again on day 3 and moving by 7:20. I debated in my mind weather I'd get Ptarmigan and hope for Carru on the way back or just climb Carru. I opted for the latter. It was a quick ascent - 3:20 up. I decided to savor this summit. It was sunny and quite pleasant. The views were spectacular! Starting up to Carru with gorgeous morning sunlight: The meadows at 7000', just below the Carru-Lago col: The only class 3 we encountered on Carru: Summit shots on Carru: Stark contrast between live trees and burnout on Lease Creek drainage. Ptarmigan on right: I knew it would be tight to bag Ptarmigan before dark, so I opted to just descend to camp. It took 3 hours from the summit. At that point it was midday and I wanted a less strenuous final day so we broke camp and moved to Doris Lake. It was about 6:15 - plenty of time to eat, relax and enjoy a gorgeous sunset over the larches. Sad to leave the Shellrock Pass camp: But happy at Doris Lake: Sunset colors: We were up early again Wednesday and headed out at 7. It took longer to get back to Slate Pass than in, but that was fine. We got to greet quite a few PCT through-hikers on their last leg since the PCT had been rerouted to the Middle Fork Pasayten trail. Osceola over Larches: Reflections on Fred's Luck on the way out: Just below Slate's Pass: KK enjoys his victory beer (Super Fuzz!): Gear Notes: Ursack Approach Notes: No snow

we searched and searched for a register to no avail....

Very cool! I've been to Trapper's Peak (and Triumph) but not Thornton. Looks like a good one to tag on a revisit to the area!

I'm sure the talus is less tedious with snow - maybe early July? Also, I have been having problems with foot pain and experimenting with approach shoes on routes. They have their advantages but on this climb the descent on talus was a bit less secure with the thinner soles. If you only did one peak of the two, I'd recommend Devore. Glad you liked the TR!

Trip: Tupshin and Devore - SE Routes Trip Date: 09/01/2018 Trip Report: This year I decided to celebrate an extended Labor Day weekend near Stehekin. For a bonus, the recent rains had cleared out the smoke we've been engulfed in and the forecast showed no rain. On Saturday we rode a very crowded Lady Express from Field Points Landing to Stehekin. We then caught a late (30 min) but almost empty Red Bus to Harlequin Bridge and hiked up the Stehekin River Trail and Devore Creek Trail to Bird Creek Camp. From here we turned uphill and schwacked our way to flat terrain around 5400' and camped. Time to camp was just under 7 hours. Sunday we arose pre-dawn (which is late and luxurious these days) and hiked straight uphill over towards Tupshin. At about 7000' we attained the ridge leading to the basin below Tupshin's SE face. We crossed the talus fields and ascended to about 7600' and the base of the route. There was no snow whatsoever on our approach which made for a lot of tedious travel, but fuck, it is September! We scrambled the first bit of the SE face and tied in just below the minor block that marks P1. I opted to lead the exposed class 3 around the 5.2 block and flipped my rope over the top of the block before proceeding to a 4th class quasi-chimney. P2 was mostly scrambling. P3 and P4 were more interesting, each with a nice (but short) low-fifth section (5.4-ish). At the top of the fourth pitch, we untied and scrambled to the summit. Although there is a ton of loose rock, the ascent seemed mostly safe and secure. The descent - not so much. We ended up rappelling five times, including the section at the bottom that we had scrambled. It was a constant fight not to knock rocks down and move carefully to stay out of each other's fall line. Once off the route, we made our way back to camp. There whisky awaited me, and I drifted off to sleep happy to finish this one off safely. On Monday we ascended to the 5800' basin below Devore and hiked up the steep gully leading to a basin. From here we ascended the steepening basin to rock bands that we scrambled to the edge of the lakes at 7000'. We ascended some horrible shitty choss to the shoulder of the ridge (7500'). then ran the ridge to a large gendarme. To compensate for the choss-slog we were treated for some of the most spectacular views I've seen: Our route descriptions said "do NOT go around the S side" (of the gendarme). We ended up wasting 2 hours trying to get around the N. The snow patch here was too melted back and icy (rotten ice). Eventually we gave up and I checked out the S side. It went! From there it was a quick shit-slog through choss up and right about 300' to a notch in the ridge, a short ridge traverse to a 4th class step and finally a scramble finish to the summit. We did 2 rappels down (both short) and retraced our steps to camp. Everyone was tired and wanted to head out the next day so we set our alarms to allow for plenty of time to get to the bus in time. Tuesday was an easy hike back to Harlequin where we all rinsed off in the river and relaxed waiting for the bus. We got some goodies at the bakery and a beer on the boat. By that morning the smoke was back in force so we were not too sad to save Flora for another trip. Gear Notes: 60m rope, small alpine rack, helmet Approach Notes: Open forest with some schwacking

Awesome link-up!

Goode is real enough. So:

they got rid of the bad apples. somehow I'm still here

wow. just wow

Yes indeed. this one made me feel old. Carryovers are starting to hurt.

Rad, we did indeed stop at the N Fork camp on the 20th. I think it was around 1 pm or so. We dropped down, hung a bag with our last day's food, and headed out in about 15 min. you are spot on about the timing and this is why I have been thwarted. I always tried for the 3rd weekend of July and often there are thunderstorms forecast about that time to add to the scheduling shenanigans. It is a committing route and I would hate to be exposed on that ridge through a storm

There were 4 of us, and a party of two ahead. Once on the Buttress us 4 operated as two parties since one guy had to be out in 3 days.

Trip: Goode - NE Buttress Trip Date: 07/22/2018 Trip Report: I've had this route on the calendar every July since 2012 and every year something has thwarted me (partners dropping, rain or thunderstorms in the forecast, etc). Last year was the only year I actually had boots on the trail and we ended up with a late start and making a route-finding mistake after crossing the N Fork of Bridge Creek that cost us the climb. This year the stars finally fucking all aligned and it was glorious! The view of the final approach after crossing the knee-deep N Fork of Bridge Creek. Follow talus between the lower slide alder up to the waterfall on the left, climb slabs to its right, then ascend talus through "magic tunnels" and onto open terrain. We bivied at 5600', just below the glacier. Last year we neglected to check out these slabs next to the left-most waterfall until it was too late. This year we went right to them. The slabs are exposed and a bit butt-puckering with full packs, but not enough to motivate us to get out a rope or give us pause about this endeavor. Opportunities like this (4 days of clear weather, motivated partners, time off work) are not so easy to come by in mid-to-late July, and I am not getting any younger. Ascending the Goode Glacier in the morning. It was broken up and we had to navigate crevasses and seracs. Nothing too serious. We all wore approach shoes, which worked well enough with crampons (I had my Grivel G1's that I got via a gift certificate from cc.com a few years ago, purchased at Jim Nelson's store). From TRs we knew that the higher up you gain the buttress, the less pitches of loose shittiness you must climb. Lower down you might get up to three pitches and up high as few as one. We opted to try for a snow bridge up high and found this one at about 6800'. It involved one face in move with a low step to block of ice. It might not go now, but there appeared to be a few other place to gain the rock below this that might last longer. We did one pitch of low-mid-fifth class rock then simulclimbed until about 8000'. I think we had a total of 3 simul-leads, with transitions only due to rope drag. I did not place much pro on these. When the buttress steepened we pitched 4 or so pitches and got to the bivy alcove at 8600'. From there 3 pitches to the ridge crest. It was lat-ish (6:30 pm) and 4 people were ahead of us and going for the summit. Figuring they would all bivy on the limited space there and seeing a nice snow patch at 8900' right next to a small bivy site we stopped, made dinner, drank water, drank whisky, and enjoyed a spectacular sunset: In the morning we waited for one of the parties to rappel. We saw them around 6 am. They said the other party was still hanging out so we headed up. After two pitches we were on the summit. We stayed on the summit for well over an hour, savoring the views. Having had been on the S side two years ago to climb Storm King, I knew we had a long day ahead. We started down. Truth be told the SW couloir and the trail down to the Park Creek trail was unsavory, and we got several blisters in our approach shoes. There is a nice spot to camp at about 7200'. Having been here before, we headed for it and looked for a stream out of the snow pack. We took a long break here to get water and savor views one last time. The views of Sinister and Dome, the rest of the Ptarmigan Traverse and Buckner are spectacular. From here it took us 3 hours to get to the "nice" trail. The length of the day and this trip with full packs was starting to take its toll. A few hours on the 4 miles to the base of this trail, then a connector (2.5 miles?) to the PCT, and about 3 more to the N Fork Camp where we had stashed food and a fuel cannister. We arrived at camp at 9:40 pm. I have never enjoyed a Mountain House more. Sadly, I had no whisky left. In the morning of the fourth day, we hiked out the last 10 miles, where beer awaited in the truck. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, appoach shoes, helmet, small alpine rack with several double slings Approach Notes: Long, brutal

Exactly. Simply walking through the park with a heavy pack is not a crime or violation of anything. If you are actually camping and have no permit, different story.

if they were more friendly "hi, what did you climb? how was it?", etc... " followed by "did you overnight? do you have a permit". A small simple change is all it would take...

Legally do we need to even stop and talk to a ranger? does anyone know? What information do they have a right to demand, if I am just hiking a trail? I get it - if I am camping somewhere, they can ask for a permit. But if I am just walking... no matter how heavy my pack. ...

Last year as I came off of Formidable, here was my special interaction with an NCNP NPS Ranger. I was hiking out after three days and had my headphones on, rocking out: Ranger: nods or gestures at me. Me: I nod/wave back Ranger: gets angry says something Me: I turn of headphones and stop Ranger: "Take your headphones off!" Me: " they aren't on" Ranger: "where are you coming from?" Me: "Formidable" Ranger : "Where is your permit?" Me: "I don't need one" Ranger: "Yes you do" (spoken angrily, ready for a conflict) Me: "I'm sure it's not in the park" Ranger: realizing his mistake, probably thought I said "Forbidden", suddenly tries to switch to small talk "oh, how was it? where did you camp" Me: "Conditions were great. Cache col was easily passable as were the Red Ledges. We camped past Arts Knoll" Ranger: clearly didn't know these places, nods like a retard. Bottom line: I am immediately a "suspect" to be questioned and accused of wrong doing. I am never given any benefit of the doubt, am treated rudely, and then when the Ranger realizes he is in the wrong - no apologies, nothing. The NPS has gone down the toilet as far as I am concerned and this is only one of many incidents I or others I know have had. The park is everyone's. It's partially mine too. I'm not a guest or an interloper. I pay taxes to preserve the lands and use them. I pay for this guy's salary. It's time the NPS get an attitude adjustment.

It is so American to overreact inappropriately and at an exagerrated level. One rare outlier (one ranger shot at one park once in how many years?) should not mean you change the entire way parks are staffed and rangers trained. NPS rangers should call the real police in when actually needed in rare cases that they are - that's a better solution.

It was cool to run into you Fred (we gave you the ride to your car). We got skunked by shitty weather and bailed, unfortunately

It' great that they are funded to do this but can't open the damn gate at Longmire in the Winter months earlier than 9 am - especially on a bluebird day days after any new snowfall

on my tick list maybe I'll do it C2C too

I've been meaning to get to the Olympics more - love the area for sure. There are a few great scrambles on my radar screen (Constance, Clark, Anderson...) But it's extra special to tick off a rock climb like this.

Trip: Sherpa Peak - West Ridge Trip Date: 06/24/2018 Trip Report: Almost nine years ago I climbed this route. However I found it unsatisfying for a few reasons: we struggled with routefinding, I did not actually stand on the summit, forgoing the latter half of the final exposed scramble to the summit, and we got back to the car at midnight despite starting early in the morning. I had unfinished business here, and it's finally been attended. Moreover, two of three of my previous experience's downsides were remedied this time around. We started up the trail at 9 am on Saturday. There were no real difficulties in the approach, and we took 7 hours to get to the camp at 7400'. I was quite pleased with this time which was faster than before, and considering my advanced years and being at death's door. Here we ran into a party of two that I actually knew and we coordinated our start times. Later we observed a party of three coming down from the top of the Sherpa Glacier. One member of that party was clearly fatigued and not doing well on descent. They approached our camp near 8 pm and bivied close by. We chatted with them: they also planned to summit the W ridge of Sherpa. We told them our plans to head up around 4 am. I heard them leaving the next day at 3:15 am - and we never really overlapped or had trouble. Thanks to whomever that party was! We got up at 4 am and headed up. We managed to stay on route the whole way up and everything went smoothly. The coordination with the other party made us effectively 3 teams of 2, and we shared a fixed line on the top and rappels all the way down to camp. All in all it was an 11 hour day camp to summit to camp. Unfortunately one party member struggled on the offtrail parts of the descent and it took us 7 more hours to hike out, and we arrived at the cars (and beer) and midnight. Well 2/3 ain't bad, and I'm calling this MISSION ACCOMPLISHED. It is worth noting that while rappeling (around 2:30 pm or so in the afternoon) we noted a helicopter circling the false summit of Mount Stuart. Apparently there was a fatal accident there. That was a bit of a downer. Other than that the trip was quite enjoyable. Now, pics. Mount Stuart money shot from Longs Pass: Climber's trail turnoff at Beverly junction: Water break on the traverse into the lower basin at 5800': Sherpa from the lower basin: The prominent waterfall below the upper basin: Perspective on the sweat equity we built on this approach: Cozy campsite on the flat rock: Full front views of the false summit of Stuart were in our face all day: Sherpa's impressive SW face: Old Geezer on the summit: Gear Notes: Small alpine rack, ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Standard Cascades Approach

Yeah, the summit pitch is definitely high-pucker factor. Such a fun climb!