KaskadskyjKozak

Ha! I climbed the standard on Jack in early September a few years ago and there was another party up there. The Nohokomeen though, yeah, I can see that is less likely to have company on a given day.

Trip: Anderson - Eel Glacier Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: I've been wanting to climb Anderson for years, and finally had a chance this Memorial Day weekend. My son and I drove up separately from my friend Noel on Friday night, arriving after 10:30. There was already a number of cars parked at the end of the Dosewallips road and we parked my rig in the first dirtbag pullout (with a firepit) a few hundred feet away from the end of the road. We got up at 5 am, sorted gear, and headed up the old forest road on bikes all the way to the old ranger station. This was rather pleasant in the cool morning and we made fairly quick work of it (under two hours). We did a quick gear swap (padded shorts, gloves off) and stashed our bikes then headed up trail. The trail to Honeymoon meadows was in great shape and mostly dry until the last 1/4 mile or so. As the trail followed close to the river near Honeymoon meadows some lingering snow made for interesting going (don't fall!) but it was nothing difficult. We got an ice axe out for one short step. These patches were, however, enough to turn around a couple of parties of backpackers, who we presumed had permits for the Honeymoon Meadows area. The Honeymoon meadows camp is still under snow with just a few campsites discernible. We opted to continue on as our permits were for higher up. A fast party of two caught up to us here as we tried to find a stream crossing. We recognized one person from this party and exchanged some small talk. No logs spanning the stream suited us so we took off our boots and waded across, then continued on snow up to Siberia, then on to Anderson Pass. We made camp just above the pass. Views late in our approach: Views near camp: We got an early start and headed up to the knoll and the Anderson "glacier" beyond. The same fast party of two passed us here (they had camped at Siberia) and a party of 4 caught up as well. We were not too disappointed as they all proceeded to kick a glorious boot path up to Flypaper Pass, taking a directissimo route up (I believe the usual way is a snow finger on climber's left that is the only way up). The slope was sustained 40 degrees with a few 45 degree sections. My son on the knoll above the Anderson Glacier: Anderson looking real purty: Conga line below Flypaper Pass: From Flypaper Pass we traversed under cliff bands on the right, avoiding as much loss of elevation as possible (and still following the boot path set by others). We attained the ridge which was still snow covered and followed snow to the summit. Only a few summit rocks were melted out and the final 30 feet or so was a bit exposed with bad runout, so we took our time and care. My son on the summit: KK just below the summit with glorious spring views! From the time we got to the ridge to the summit weather started coming in - with misty drizzling, so we did not linger on the summit long. We retraced our steps to Flypaper Pass. Then weather started improving. A fourth party arrived at Flypaper Pass as we prepared to descend. That made 4 parties and 13 people total on a remote Olympic mountain early season. Is there anywhere you can go these days for solitude? Noel faced out and plunge-stepped most of the steep snow down. My son and I faced in and downclimbed which was slow and strenuous. But the footing was super solid. As the slopes moderated there was some sloppy postholing. The even flatter slopes were easy going. Views S from Flypaper Pass. That big, dirty slide was about all the recent slide activity we saw. The snow is nicely consolidated. After descending face-in: We then continued back to camp. It was early enough to get part-way out, so we broke camp, dropped to Honeymoon Meadows and dug a platform on snow to camp. A couple other parties were there but the camp was nowhere near full. We took a log crossing near camp to cross the stream (we had passed it on the approach two days earlier). On Sunday morning we slept in a bit and hiked back the 9 miles or so to our bikes, then had a glorious coasting down the 6 miles or so to the cars, where an ice cold Icicle Hazy IPA awaited me. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet Approach Notes: Snow starting just before honeymoon meadows.

Hey DanO, congrats, you've managed to exercise free speech and still win the Darwin Award in the process.

folks, you can do better than this. 7 pages in a few days? come on now.... not good enough!

a perfect song for this sunny, warm, spring day

if you survived you could write a TR that surpasses the infamous Uncle Tricky on Dierdre...

so are you saying you wouldn't tie-in with this guy?

more importantly Ivan made an appearance. that's almost as rare as a week of sun in the Seattle skies.

meanwhile there is a strange orb in the western WA skies... apparently it is scaring folks into posting in spray. An alternative would be to conquer one's fears and appear before this orb and pay homage. I'd suggest a hike, run, or bike ride

I just wanted to check in to this thread. I missed so much while in Moab last week.

I agree that there is an attack on free speech in America today. But the thread title is a total mismatch for the OPs actual topic. <THIS MESSAGE TRUNCATED BY AN OMNIPOTENT MODERATOR BENT ON STIFLING FREE SPEECH>

The purpose of snowshoes is to carry them on your pack, so you will never use them. If you leave them at home, you will need them.

Bless me Porter for I have sinned....

I have Carrie left too. I'm excited for both Anderson and Carrie (and Clark, Deception). The Olympics always deliver!

#100? woot! I'm hoping to bag Anderson myself this May-June. Hope you guys get out there too!

Never saw Mogg or Schenker while climbing, but definitely enjoyed some classic tunes on my iPod

we gave this route a try in october but ran out of time with a mile to go to the summit (we were deep in the scrambling up high). We ended up bailing at sunset. next day we got Old Snowy and Ives, and now I have to go back for Gilbert.

Thanks for this bump. I'm definitely going to take my son on this route - hopefully this summer once I clean up some unfinished business in the Chilliwacks

Great pics!

R.I.P., Edward!

I've done that approach twice for NE buttress of Goode so I'm not sure I'd want a repeat (gawd it's awfully long and you are right about how far you really need to get on the first day). But it's definitely a cool TR - I never thought of even looking for a route from this side, since almost everyone seems to do the S side route (which does have some typical Cascade Choss). I'm actually wondering how the two would compare - the S side involves that long hump from trail to 7K that is pretty rugged and brutal itself....

Hey cool! It was nice to meet you. The photo you posted actually makes neither the snow nor the ridge look bad at all!

Thanks, Jim. TBH, I'm grateful for any day I can get out, especially at my advanced age

Trip: Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge with North Ridge finish Trip Date: 09/13/2020 Trip Report: After a couple disappointing attempts into Depot Creek I settled for a rock climb this weekend with my son. The smoke made multiple days seem unappealing but I figured a one day climb would be a reasonable compromise. My son and I headed out to WA pass mid-afternoon on Saturday, stopping in Marblemount to retrieve some items we had stashed in bear lockers on a previous trip that the maintenance crew took. We then proceeded to Lone Fir Campground for a relaxing evening before an early morning start. Alarms went off at 5:20 (damn it's dark now at that time!), and we drove to the pullout below Cutthroat. The smoke seemed to have worsened from the previous day, despite what we were expecting from reading forecasts. Oh well, we were there. View up in the morning: We made quick work of the approach to the base of the route around 7500'. We opted for the start just right of the prominent dihedral (with a wide crack) on the S side. The climbing started at class three then got harder and more exposed. I never saw any fixed pitons (I expected two) and ended up climbing to rap chains in one long 60m pitch. Later we found that this is the middle set of chains for the descent from the ridge crest. From here I led a shorter pitch to the crest and the top chains. This had a few rock moves mixed with scrambling. We then unroped and moved the belay as far as we were comfortable. There is one section of the ridge that becomes exposed on both side and requires moves around small micro-gendarmes that we didn't want to solo. So we backed down a few feet, built an anchor and simul-climbed the exposed section to a flat spot. View to the summit block from the exposed ridge: My son at the end of the exposed section: From here we opted to traverse the ledge to a notch in the upper N ridge. We simulclimbed that as well, but realized it didn't really require it (much less exposed than what we had just done). Ledge leading to the N ridge as seen from the N ridge notch: From the notch on the N ridge, I led a fun pitch up 4th and low 5th class rock until the terrain moderated to a scramble that led to the summit. Summit views S (very smoky): Summit views North (clearing some): After enjoying the summit for a while and fueling up, we began our raps down to the W ridge. We were expecting two 30m raps off of chains, but the 2nd rap dumped me on sketchy class 4 terrain, so I climbed back to the rope, attached a prusik, and climbed back to a 3rd rappel station (not chains, but quite elaborate set of round webbing/cordelettes). Me on upper rappel: We then simul-climbed the short exposed ridge section, downclimbed to the bolt anchors on the lower ridge and did 3 30m raps back to the base. Lower rappel. Note improved air quality by later afternoon The hike out was pleasant and we got to the truck just after 6:30, making it a 12 hour day. Gear Notes: Alpine rack up to 2" Approach Notes: Zero snow. Compared to other trips this summer, not too chossy