KaskadskyjKozak

We are entering a weekend with a heat wave and 17K freezing level. That's about the highest I've ever seen in our area (usually 14-15.5K is the high for freezing level in a warm stretch in WA state)

I don't do well in high temps. I may be sitting out this weekend myself. Good luck in whatever you do (if you go)

thanks! Yeah, I hear you on stream crossings - they'll be really raging this coming weekend

do you happen to have a picture you can share of the slope up to Flypaper Pass now (with the rock bands)? You've piqued my curiosity on how much has melted out.

Cool trip and beta! Where did the snow level start in earnest up there? The last update I saw on the NP website says "4000'" (from a week ago). Of course we have a heat wave this week, which could melt a lot of snow, but still would love to hear where you encountered consistent snow pack.

Yeah, it's an awesome place. I will go back for sure.

tea bag? Well, one old dude did go skinny dipping in the lake

Trip: Mount Deception - Standard Trip Date: 06/20/2021 Trip Report: We were back in the Olympics this weekend - this time for a three day trip up to the Royal Lake area. Our three-person team included my son to help me celebrate Father's Day in the place where I like to be the most - in the mountains. Kudos to him for mustering the energy after a mid-week trip to the Gardners with friend and a one-day rest in-between (ah, to be 19!!). Not much to say about the approach - we took about four hours with a 30 min lunch break and arrived at 2. We had read some recent TRs warning about shin deep puddles and several feet of snow about 4500', but that has melted. The trail was almost snow free to the lake and most campsites were dry (two had some snow or a puddle in the platforms). Sunday was our big day. We headed up at 5:20 am, went to the upper basin, then picked a line up to the Deception-Martin saddle. We mostly stayed on snow, and the upper rock bands - that are reported in some sources as very loose and dangerous class 3 - were almost all under snow. The top consisted of 400 feet or so of snow (45 degree slopes, sustained, +/- 5 degrees in places). From the saddle we dropped down and left to the glacier, and traversed under Gilhooley tower, (the 'bypass' route). We climbed to the ridge on the far side of Gilhooley and took the trail to the summit (mostly snow-free until the very top hundred feet or so). Total time up was about 5:20. Looking up the Deception-Martin saddle: Steep snow just below the Deception-Martin saddle: On the ridge near Gilhooley Tower: Happy Father's Day to me (summit of Deception): My son on the summit of Deception: After enjoying the summit we retraced our steps until we hit ~6100' . We then contoured above the upper Royal Basin to pick up Surprise Basin, and then ascended to the saddle at its top. We were encouraged by the ledges - snow free - and headed up. Unfortunately just before the final 100' or so, we hit a snow patch with very poor runout. With it being late in the day (5:30) and the snow soft, we were not comfortable soloing this terrain, so we called it a day and headed back to camp (8:15). We spent another night at camp and hiked out in the morning. Upper Slopes of Surprise Basin: The start of the ledges on Clark: A short downclimb while traversing ledges around Clark: The last bit - steep snow with poor run-out to cliffs: Morning Reflection before we hiked out from Royal Lake on Monday: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet. Approach Notes: 99% snow-free to Royal Lake. Mostly snow-covered beyond.

Four groups: parties of 2, 3, 4, and 4 (we were the 3)

Oh I thought this was about the peak west of Baker in WA....

my guess is it's in prime shape right now - including the N face. go get it and let us all know how it went!

On my second ascent of Whitehorse, I took the glacier route. We solo'd the ramp up and down. One of my partners, downclimbed part way, then decided to glissade. His slide immediately turned into a human starfish/pinwheel. I thought for sure we would be calling a helicopter. Somehow he stopped, got up, grinned, said he was ok, and continued down on foot.

I'm glad you didn't say Primus

we share carrying group gear, but I definitely "round up" for his share

Trip: Whitehorse - Lone Tree Pass Trip Date: 05/22/2021 Trip Report: I first climbed Whitehorse early on as I began climbing. I thought it would be a great way to introduce my son to steeper terrain with the short ramp on the top, and it's always a good conditioner as a day trip. Last year we attempted the route in early May, and ended up having the mountain to ourselves midweek. The downside is we broke trail the entire day, and I turned us around 10 feet from the summit, unable to pull the lip safely with my light 10-pt crampons and ice axe. The summit block was snow covered (a combination of graupel and sugar snow over some ice). That was disheartening and discouraging to say the least. When we got to the car I said "I'm not going back there". But time heals all wounds, and we made a return trip - a very different return trip. Firstly, the crowds. Holy fuck. We arrived to car camp the night before to a full parking area at 10:30 Friday night. Fortunately we found a spot in a wide spot in the road just outside the "lot". Then we were awoken at 2:30 am by people getting up and cars pulling in, including one young woman that hit a parked car across from us (great way to start a trip :P). Our alarms were set for 5 am, so once the crowds finished setting out by 3:30 or 4, we got a few more zzzs. We headed up at 5:40 am. Not much to say about the approach and climb. Snow was melting near the usual spot you turn off to ascend snow - I'd say 250' from the bottom to avoid the brush poking out (3250' elevation). From there it was continuous to the summit block. We took 6:50 from cars to High Pass, which I consider descent for my old, broken body. And I didn't feel bad, either. But... we were following a pounded-in boot path from that 2:30 am crowd which made for easy going. By the time we got to High Pass the crowds were all descending or off the summit block, except for one team of three who had started at 4am that we caught up to. So, we ended up just waiting a bit behind them. Everyone was soloing the snow ramp, and so did we. It's steepest was 55-60 degrees or so - steeper than I remember. I had brought 12 point grivels this time AND a 2nd tool. I wasn't about to turn around at the summit this time, but neither were necessary. We rappelled from the exposed anchor on the top. The hike out was pleasant, and we were alone the whole way down. Pics follow. First view of the objective on the approach. Note the wide boot path: Summit ramp. These pics never do make anything look steep - camera angle and all: Father and son on the summit, separately: I have summitted Whitehorse three times now. This is the first time I got summit views South! Stefan on rappel: Hiking out below Lone Tree Pass: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet. Approach Notes: Snow starting around 3250'

it's all part of a bigger plan - baby steps on steeper snow and more gentle, forgiving glaciers before we (dad and son) ramp up. I think we've mastered strenuous approaches (we actually tried getting into the Chillwacks last September via Silver Creek, and have done 40+ mile trips into the Pasayten)

When I climbed Jack, I exclaimed "once and done" when back at the cars. But after seeing this TR, I'm rethinking that.... TFPU!

For a second I thought he had created a cc.com account (he is Stefan too)

Ha! I climbed the standard on Jack in early September a few years ago and there was another party up there. The Nohokomeen though, yeah, I can see that is less likely to have company on a given day.

Trip: Anderson - Eel Glacier Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: I've been wanting to climb Anderson for years, and finally had a chance this Memorial Day weekend. My son and I drove up separately from my friend Noel on Friday night, arriving after 10:30. There was already a number of cars parked at the end of the Dosewallips road and we parked my rig in the first dirtbag pullout (with a firepit) a few hundred feet away from the end of the road. We got up at 5 am, sorted gear, and headed up the old forest road on bikes all the way to the old ranger station. This was rather pleasant in the cool morning and we made fairly quick work of it (under two hours). We did a quick gear swap (padded shorts, gloves off) and stashed our bikes then headed up trail. The trail to Honeymoon meadows was in great shape and mostly dry until the last 1/4 mile or so. As the trail followed close to the river near Honeymoon meadows some lingering snow made for interesting going (don't fall!) but it was nothing difficult. We got an ice axe out for one short step. These patches were, however, enough to turn around a couple of parties of backpackers, who we presumed had permits for the Honeymoon Meadows area. The Honeymoon meadows camp is still under snow with just a few campsites discernible. We opted to continue on as our permits were for higher up. A fast party of two caught up to us here as we tried to find a stream crossing. We recognized one person from this party and exchanged some small talk. No logs spanning the stream suited us so we took off our boots and waded across, then continued on snow up to Siberia, then on to Anderson Pass. We made camp just above the pass. Views late in our approach: Views near camp: We got an early start and headed up to the knoll and the Anderson "glacier" beyond. The same fast party of two passed us here (they had camped at Siberia) and a party of 4 caught up as well. We were not too disappointed as they all proceeded to kick a glorious boot path up to Flypaper Pass, taking a directissimo route up (I believe the usual way is a snow finger on climber's left that is the only way up). The slope was sustained 40 degrees with a few 45 degree sections. My son on the knoll above the Anderson Glacier: Anderson looking real purty: Conga line below Flypaper Pass: From Flypaper Pass we traversed under cliff bands on the right, avoiding as much loss of elevation as possible (and still following the boot path set by others). We attained the ridge which was still snow covered and followed snow to the summit. Only a few summit rocks were melted out and the final 30 feet or so was a bit exposed with bad runout, so we took our time and care. My son on the summit: KK just below the summit with glorious spring views! From the time we got to the ridge to the summit weather started coming in - with misty drizzling, so we did not linger on the summit long. We retraced our steps to Flypaper Pass. Then weather started improving. A fourth party arrived at Flypaper Pass as we prepared to descend. That made 4 parties and 13 people total on a remote Olympic mountain early season. Is there anywhere you can go these days for solitude? Noel faced out and plunge-stepped most of the steep snow down. My son and I faced in and downclimbed which was slow and strenuous. But the footing was super solid. As the slopes moderated there was some sloppy postholing. The even flatter slopes were easy going. Views S from Flypaper Pass. That big, dirty slide was about all the recent slide activity we saw. The snow is nicely consolidated. After descending face-in: We then continued back to camp. It was early enough to get part-way out, so we broke camp, dropped to Honeymoon Meadows and dug a platform on snow to camp. A couple other parties were there but the camp was nowhere near full. We took a log crossing near camp to cross the stream (we had passed it on the approach two days earlier). On Sunday morning we slept in a bit and hiked back the 9 miles or so to our bikes, then had a glorious coasting down the 6 miles or so to the cars, where an ice cold Icicle Hazy IPA awaited me. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet Approach Notes: Snow starting just before honeymoon meadows.

Hey DanO, congrats, you've managed to exercise free speech and still win the Darwin Award in the process.

folks, you can do better than this. 7 pages in a few days? come on now.... not good enough!

a perfect song for this sunny, warm, spring day

if you survived you could write a TR that surpasses the infamous Uncle Tricky on Dierdre...

so are you saying you wouldn't tie-in with this guy?