Trip: Eight Mile Buttress - Tree and Stump Linkup
Date: 4/25/2010
Trip Report:
My partner JH and I headed out to warm rock as a backup to alpine climb plans gone awry due to recent snow. We opted for a 5.easy day and the link-up described in the new Leavenworth Rock guide of the Tree route (3 pitches up to 5.6) plus the Stump (same) sounded like a good one to get back into things.
I have never climbed the Tree Route and was worried about all the talk about it swallowing big gear. I found it pretty mellow, only needing a C4 #4 and #3 on the first pitch, and a C4 #4 and BD hex #11 on the "infamous" off-width (pitch 3). I carried a #5 cam up to the summit for no reason. The first pitch of this route is all under-clingy up to 5.6 - not my favorite. Protection was fine. The third pitch of this route is very enjoyable 5.6.
Looking up from the base of the Tree Route:
The Stump route has a great first pitch involving a nice 5.6 crack - very protectable. We had route-finding issues on pitch two veering far right of the bolted 5.10- route. We ended up with an "adventurous" pitch three from an awkward gear anchor near an old, ratty rap sling. I clipped an old rusty piton, and a permanently-placed nut en route to a large tree. We didn't quite reach the top on pitch 3 due to rope drag, and had a short 50 foot belay to the top. For pitch 2, we should have stayed farther left.
View of Stuart from the top of the Stump Route:
We carried approach shoes to the summit which made our walk-off a lot better. To rappel the routes you really need two 60 m ropes, and we only had one (and you still have to scramble a couple of hundred feet between the routes). We only ran into one other party the whole day (at the beginning of the Tree route).
Gear Notes:
Large gear needed/used: C4 #3, #4, BD Hex #11
Approach shoes if not rapping (2 60m needed)
Approach Notes:
Short, quick.