TrogdortheBurninator

You and mike Layton must both defeat Shen Long to stand a chance

My scientific study on the mechanics of unsolicited spray has worked perfectly. Please carry on.

Planning to head to Tieton tomorrow to climb at RC. Right now there are three of us, but a fourth would be nice. Probably just climbing moderate cracks all day, then coming back tomorrow eve. Jason

Trogdor Asks: "Clippy, I need to perform a multiple linear regression" Clippy Replies: "Are you tying to: 1) Print a photograph 2) Send and email attachment"

Thanks. If anyone else is planning on heading over there ever, www.rockfax.com puts out a nice select guide for ~$10. We also bought the local guide when we were over there. Way more routes, but hardly ever necessary aside from the great pictures and interesting reading.

Climb: Sardinia - Cala Gonone-Many Date of Climb: 9/9/2005 Trip Report: On september 9th I got married and we went to Sardinia and London for our honeymoon. We spent 11 days in sardinia and had an all around awesome time. The island is basically a giant crag. There is granite, basalt, and limestone all over the place. Being a honeymoon, climbing was not the main focus of our stay, but we did manage to squeeze some climbing in on a few days. This island is gorgeous. We stayed in Cala Gonone which must be one of the most perfect places for a climbing and beach holiday. These are the crags within a couple kilometers(or meters in some cases) of town: Cala Fuili, this gorge actually has about a dozen crags in it, this is just one of the walls. Bidderscotai: Awesome climbing in a giant cave right next to the sea the crag actually extends quite far on either side of the cave as well. Budinetto, awesome slabby ampitheater La Poltrona, an even better slabby limestone crag. Awesome technical climbing, some routes with move actually above bolts Cala Luna - supposedly awesome hard sport climbing, although we only went to the beach. This crag is typically accessed by boat cruise, although one could hike in to save money. Aigulle Goloritze, supposedly one of the finest outings in all of Italy. I definitely would have loved to have climbed, but at least it makes a good excuse to go back. A gorgeous formation with obligaory 5.10 on its easiest routes. Hotel Supramonte in Goruppa, we went for a hike to this 400m gorge and were lucky enough to see some people working on this route. Supposedly the hardest long route in Italy as of 2002. 4 pitches harder than 8a up to 8b+. Had seen only 6 ascents as of the guidebook printing. Now for pictures of us enjoying the rock Sam at Bidderscotai Me at La Poltrona Sam at La Poltrona Me again at la poltrona Sam on a nice arete at Cala Fuili Me on a route put up by Lynn Hill at Cala Fuili. An austrian told me she did the FA unroped. Pretty crazy considering it is 6b. The bolts are spaced far enough to make it a exciting. There is also an awesome view out to the see to your left as you climb. One of the most fun climbs all trip. Awesome moves on perfect limestone. Climbing on our first day at Cala Fuili. These climbs were way overbolted, but still pretty fun. Me goofing around on a perfect polished limestone handcrack in the Goruppa gorge. All that sport climbing had me in hand jam withdrawl so it was nice to feed the habit for a few minutes. Overall, the Cala Gonone area offers excellent limestone sportclimbing on slabby, vertical, and overhung routes at all sorts of grades. If anybody is looking to mix a family vacation or romantic trip with some climing, this place is hard to beat. The Cala Gonone area is only a small fraction of the climbing available all over the island, but for us it was perfect. Gear Notes: 15 draws 60m+ rope (we had 70m) Approach Notes: Fly and fly some more. Tickets from the UK can be less than $100 RT, so with a cheap ticket to London, this isnt even that expensive of a place to get to. The island has plenty of camping. After august, renting a flat also becomes an affordable and realistic option. We saw a couple people just living out of vans for a few weeks, although they were mostly mainland eurpeans who took the ferry over.

Shouldn't this warrant a photograph?

its very complicated http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=tripping+balls

It's a str8 in crack the whole way. The runout is dictated only by your rack and ability to place pro.

Maybe he just juxtaposed the saying "I've got a hare up my ass", and took his own statement literally. An honest mistake i'm sure we've all made once or twice when tripping balls.

Anytime I'm high on meth I always go looking for the nearest rabbit. Mmmm!

"Halloween" or any thing else by the Misfits (I know you already have on track on your list). IE "Last Caress" - I got something to say, I killed your baby today and it doesn't matter much to me as long as its dead. I got something to say, I raped your mother today and it doesn't matter much to me as long as she spread.... Iron Maiden - "Fear of the Dark" and many others

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/496980/an/0/page/9#496980 Been there, done that

In the past the FF sale has had down jackets for really cheap. I'd imagine if past experience holds, in store prices on some specific items will be much less than the listed discounts. Regarding down jackets in general: I have a FF volant that is super warm, and the pockets are possibly the greatest pockets ever. It is very well made, but often overkill for me. I also have a moonstone lucid jacket ($150), which owing to it's lighter weight, gets considerably more use. For an all around 3 season alpine jacket, these new ultralight downs cant be beat. THey weigh nothing and pack so small I sometimes just hang em off my harness on shorter alpine climbs instead of carrying a full pack.

I am hoping to make a short trip to yosemite this fall and am wondering if mid-november is getting kind of late for a trip. I am flying down to meet a friend in san jose. Because of work I can only do 2 climbing days if I go in October, or 3 climbing days if I go over veterans day (Nov 11). What forecast/averages are most representative of the valley to get an idea for typical weather? I checked Merced and it looks pretty mild that time of year (highs in upper 60s). Thanks

I wonder if this had to do with the whole scarpa no longer being distributed by BD thing.

Of the like 3 days I rode last year, 2 were at baker and both were awesome. Full coverage on Harry, Gunsight and all the other goods. I miss bellingham, ski acres makes me sad.

I was thinking a similar thing once. Trad climbing is often more strenuous than sport climbing because of the extra energy required to place gear compared to clipping a bolt. Free soloing on the other hand, arguably the most traditional form of climbing, is by this analogy the least strenuous form of climbing. So... we should all start soloing above our trad limit It seems people often skip bolts on hard climbs if they are pumped, so your crux only clipping analogy might just be an extreme case of this.

I guess I was just thinking something 14c initially, even over 20 years (saw the ref to early 90s in your other post and assumed ~10 yrs) wouldn't see enough traffic to really wear hard. Didn't think about the fact that each hold is that much more critical at those grades.

Rumr, that is crazy that a climb this new and hard could get overused that fast. I've only been to smith once; is this type of extreme wear typical of most tuff routes, only more disguised in jug hauls than a route as precise as this? How often does this get climbed? I guess it is probably sort of exponential in wear though because the easier it gets, the more traffic it gets. Maybe one day when it is 5.7 I will be able to climb it.

How do you judge how loose is loose enough to clean/leave (CBS says removeable by hand; is that pulling, hanging, prying)? If you are leaving semi-loose blocks, is it ethical/unethical to glue in place? Is the standard different on sport climbs vs adventure climbs? Often cleaning looseish rock will make a climb harder and safer, is that better than easier but more dangerous?

The climbing in the third pic looks awesome. I need to get there some time.

I like how the time machine allows you to arrive at work two hours after waking up in the winds.

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