treknclime

There were snow machine tracks all the way up the headwall (left side) up to the ridge leading to the lunch counter as of 2 weeks ago...

Not sure if the bridge is still there? Pls post if you find the answer.

Static rope used for glacier climbing? Never heard of it. Please reference where this is advised/recommended by rope makers, or?? That static comment has to be troll.

Need a MH Trango 3.1, or Trango 3.1 Arch (the stronger one), or a NF VE 25, or the weather station (4-5 person, larger poles)? I have one of each for sale. Great shape...good price. PM me. TNC

As of last Tuesday, there was a snow trail all the way up Red, and still lots of snow around Guye, Cave Ridge, std route up Guye, and on W face ledges.

Huascaran can be pretty cold on the summit day. Have seen folks typically wear plastics and Nepal Extremes. Think I remember on one trip seeing a guy wearing hiking boots. Mostly vagabon folks, really going on the cheap...picking up gear along the way. Don't let that fool ya, though... If you're thinking overboots for the coldest trips, Forty Below makes some short ones that easily work with regular gaiters (if you get cold feet), so it'll allow some flexiblity...depending on the peak, conditions and temps. Some of the approaches to some climbs are on slabs, and a more flexible boot can make them easier and faster to ascend and descend. Be sure to let us know how your trip goes, and how your boots preformed.

That Colchuck sunset photo is sure nice.

The Montrail CTC (car to car) has gryptonite soles...climbs reasonably well, and is more oriented towards longer approaches than the D7.

Alternatives would be the Mountain Hardware Chugatch pants, or the Wild Things prima loft pants.

Has anyone been up the trail from Longmire to Paradise? I was wondering if the footbridge is out at Cougar Campground? If the bridge is pasable, it's a reasonable 6 mile snowshoe/ski one way to Paradise, and with a super early start from Longmire (bike there), it might be possible to do a day trip from the Gate to Muir and back, if the snow conditions above Paradise are reasonable. However...the start and end of the trip would prolly be in the dark.

Nice photos...thanks for sharing!

I think if you make any $$ while doing any climbing instruction, you are technically guiding. And...because you're accepting $$, you are for sure personally liable (and your personal home owners insurance won't cover that stuff). Unless you can show insurance companies you have the proper training, ongoing training (in some cases), first-aid certs, and skill set, you will likely not get insurance. If you can work through a company who already has insurance, you will likely come under their insurance program. Even so, you will need that FA training and some kind of annual "guide" training, depending on your guiding venue. The AMGA should be able to respond to your questions, and without a doubt, the AMGA guide instructors really have things dialed in...and you will learn tons.

XXX... The Tooth can be climbed in 2 pitches using two 70m ropes, and is a reasonably clean and easy technique using a reverso or ATC guide. You posted back in September...how did your experience go? Have fun?

Oh...and for Denali...I usually have everyone bring a gallon a fuel a piece, plus 1 or maybe 2 extra gallons (more cans for smaller parties). This allows for caches in a couple of spots (in case you're fueless on the descent), and allows one to carry enough fuel to higher camps in sufficient quantities. Now that the NPS is counting fuel cans (in and out)...it's harder to find left over fuel from other parties...more so in later season (July...my favorite time; it's a wilderness out there without all the people, and the NPS has usually left in the first week of the month). Also...you can make lots of hot drinks with this approach when tent bound...no matter how long your nailed to the slope...without having to abort your climb.

Like Ade, I tried the MSR pocket rocket. Wanted to use it for quick hot lunches, on the go. The rocket sucked. Would rather take a couple of extra minutes and pull out the XGK torch...and get the job over and done with...and not worry about heating up/maintaining the cartridge heat.

A cup of white gas per person per day is a good place to start (when melting snow), with a XGK. When going for more than 2 nights...and/or if you're planning to brew up for lunch...throw in a little extra. If you're using more than 2 stoves under a large pot in a group situation...increase the fuel consumption to a bit more than a cup per person per day. For most average climbs...in the greater picture, a little extra fuel weighs very little for what it can provide. Hope this helps.

You might have better luck for Edgeworks by posting on their BB: http://www.edgeworks-climbing.com/cgi/yabb2/YaBB.pl It's checked daily by many of the regulars, and those like you look'in to hook up with a partner. Have fun!

Awesome photos...the flood damage, bowser, and the winter scenes!

Thanks for sharing. Nice blog.

Any news?

Thanks, Jens, for the heads up. Have been doing laps on them at crossfit...and so far OK. It's a long drive to CF, and was thinking to work some laps in like once a week around home. I agree...they can be especially rough on the shoulder. Will shoot for doing less...vs. more. The advice is always welcomed with a

Speaking of snow machines...hope to buy one...maybe next year (you hear that JP!)

Tam Mcarther ridge is a nice xc trip, too. If there are snow machines, it's a pain if they're running around...at least untill the wilderness boundry. Klindt Vielbig's xc book has a lot of worthy tours for the Bachy area.

Anyone have instructions for making a Bacher ladder?? I saw Crossfit had some in an old journal...but it costs 5 bucks. Googling didn't come up with anything. I've got the basic measurements...but wanted to see if there's anything formal out there. (thx!)

Based upon this article http://www.gazettetimes.com/articles/2006/12/22/news/community/6loc04_climber.txt Kelly James sounds quite experienced, likable, and human. He had 4 kids... What a tough deal.