Dr_Crash

Ordered a ricesac. (Yes, dear SnowByrd, I made a decision and I won't and can't return it). Randy was fine with adding tool tubes to a Valdez (and I say Randy rocks for that! It is cool to offer to customize packs) but I want the ability to load 30 lbs in the thing. Once I get comfortable reducing my load to 30 lbs for an overnight I'll move down to something like a modified Valdez. drC

Shit. Cut off windshirts? Where can I buy a cut windshirt? Which one is the lightest? Shall I seam tape the cuts to prevent the fabric from running? Is using a cut off windshirt okay if you're climbing mixed with spurs or do you need more than holes in your garment to be climbing "bareback?" Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah! All that research to do again. drC

Hmmm... So it's got nothing to do with the Frison-Roche novel then. That one is about the son of a guide who dies lightning struck while climbing the Dru (pushed by an obnoxious American client ;-) who didn't want to turn back when the storm started), and that son's calling to be a guide himself and... read the book drC

You drC

Interesting choice of words to translate "premier de cordée" (rope leader). Great book by Frison-Roche that I am, by coincidence, currently reading. drC

Careful squatting with those on. drC

I haven't had issues using my ax with the yucky cut-off shaft spike in a stake position. But then maybe I didn't meet the right kind of very hard snow. drC

Mammut Matrix needs only 2 and doesn't come with a disclaimer saying it will suck on a wet 8.4 mm rope (which is too big for the Reversino, duh!). Anybody has used it? drC

I haven't used any of these. I have been very happy with my Grivel Air Tech Racing ax. The Raven Pro (BD) is a bit lighter and has a real spike but I find the pick of the Grivel to be nicer. I read an ax test that mentionned the Grivel you're showing and while it was the most comfortable to hold, the author mentionned that the molded cover didn't stand up much to hammering the ax into hard snow... (No surprise, just something you might not be thinking of.) drC

How can you make a rectangle into a square? (Confused.) And yes, I can always buy a different pad. So far, the Ricesac (smaller Icesac) sounds like a good idea, or a Valdez modified to add the Chernobyl goodies (ice tubes, crampon patch). I think I can live with 40 to 45 liters and if I get 50-52 I know I'll fill them... drC

Is the Icesac pad really 11x46 inches? 11 doesn't sound very wide... drC

The randonnee rope (I assume bts has one of the Beal ropes of the same name) will be fine for glacier travel. For not much more money though, one can get a true climbing rope; I got a 37 m 8.4 mm half rope made by Sterling that I use for glacier travel, but has the advantage of also being usable for climbing when someone else brings along another half. 37 m should be good for up to 4 people too (12 m or so between each), though I've never tried that on this very one rope. drC

Recommendations? Can you answer in the original thread yet? drC

I am looking for a bouldering pad for my mini boulderer boy. Any recommendations? Cordless D-Lux according to http://www.toprope.com/whatshot/crashpad/crashinreview.htm though I don't know how easy Taco style pads are to carry. I'll do the carry, the mini boulderer being 46" tall. I like him, I don't want him to fall on the ground too much The Bittersweet single wide looks big and a decent price ($129). Metolius has their double size pad on sale for $126 too but that might be too big. Where to find them cheap? Used? Thanks! drC

A note to the people who contributed to having my 'Patagucci houdini' topic locked: don't bother; if you don't have anything to contribute, STFU One jab is fine, too many is dumb. If the WT wind shirt and the Houdini aren't wind proof, what are they good for then? (And good reminder about the forecast NOLSe...). drC

I was thinking the use would be to replace my 13 oz REI ultralight jacket as my emergency-crap-it's-raining thing, and also use it for alpine rock when it's windy. I was going for the WT when someone indicated a hood really is a great feature when it's windy (never has bothered me topo much). NOLSe, what's MT's system? His book is at home, can't have a look now. drC

The Ricesac might be a good idea to make sure I don't overpack Though an overnighter might be tough (I am not as hardcore as my friend Chris yet ) drC

I've narrowed down my windshirt choices to the Wild Things ultra lightweight nylon shirt (4 oz, no hood) or the Patagonia Houdini (6 oz, hood, DWR treatment). I've heard raves about the WT one, nothing about the Houdini. Anybody has it? drC

Assuming they're the same price (they're not), which would you pick? Climbing picked the Icesac w/ the Chernobyl a close second apparently mostly because of the helmet issue. Has anyone seen both? How's the Icesac for emergency bivy (how much of an expansion collar)? Thanks guys, drC PS: and what is CCW's Web site again?

Where is the general search now? It used to be a link at the top... </dumb>

Any reason to do it? Have never done that but since I'm getting some for some fancy shoes, wonder whether the climbing boots deserve similar TLC. drC

Where are you taking your test? VW requires leading on a 5.9, who uses a 5.7? drC

A good compass with a mirror will provide that. I wish someone at Suunto or Silvia or wherever thought about putting an aiming slot in the compass mirror, but you don't have to be 100% precise to attract attention. drC

Graupel as an underlayer sucks, and hoar underneath sure won't help stability! Be careful out there. drC

Yeah, Crystal on the 22nd... We'll see ya there. [/evil] Geez, another birthday today isn't helping the old brain, is it? drC