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I am starting to look into climbing denali next year and would like to do all the planning my self, is this advisable? Are there any good books that will help me out? Also I will need to pick up a new backpack, what size and brand would you recomend?

I would go but I am going to Rainier. Right now I am going the weekend after than. Have fun and take a lot of pics so I can get pumped up for this one

ok this is what I know as of 7/1/2004. road #65 washed out, road to twin lakes open but closed at napeeqwa crossing (just passed twin lakes), Trinidy open all the way. Entiat River #5100 open but may be closed do to forest fire in the area. There is a forest fire in the 25 mile creek area that has many of the backroads closed. The Stekekin river road (1460) may be closed due to forest fire as well the Stehekin area on Lake Chelan. This mountain looks like it will not give it up with out a lot of forplay. If anybody figures a way in let me know. I will do the same.

Called Darrington rager and they said road 23 is washed out more than 10 miles from the trail head and that the kennedy hot springs area is gone, no trails. They rerouted the PCT to the east side of the mountain. Sounds like if you want an adventure this is the way to go

Has anybody been up Glacier this season? What route?

Ya must still be brain dead after this weekend. Saw it after I wrote mine. Checking out the Edlorado and ID MK1 xl, but what about the others like the MH?

I am in the need of a 4 season two man tent. It seams to make more sense than each person taking a Bivi. Right now I am checking out Moutain hardwear Ev2, Mountain Hardwear Trango 4 Tent, MSR Prophet Tent, REI Geo Mountain 3 Tent. What do you guys think of the single wall tents? Would a two wall design be better for weather? Looking to take the tent up Rainier so possible rain, snow, and high winds to deal with. We will say money is no object, rather spend money and get the best tent possible than deal with bad products or have to up grade later. Also I am 6 foot 6 inch so it must be roomy to deal with my tall ass. I also would like to be able to cook inside as well. My finall cosideration will be weight. What is your favorite 4 season tent?

glad to hear that somebody made it up that damn mountain via thayer headwall. I was up there on the 30th and was swimming in powder from the morain up to the constriction in the headwall as well. No crust just powder. The avalanche debris that you climbed through happened on the 30th. It came down just as I was about to go up (I was about 20ft away from the avi), scared the Sh#t out of me. Then another larger avi happend to the left of the constriction. I was flanked my avi's and decided to get the hell out of there. My plan was to top out North and head to the route you took a pic of on middle. Sweet looking route up that mountain. Looking to attempt soloing both routes some time soon. This time with out any avi's. Has anybody boarded the Thayer headwall or anyother of the east facing slopes on North? They all look like b#$chen lines.

looking at doing the Torment/Forbidden travers and need beta on how to decend forbidden. After climbing Forbidden via west ridge how do you get down? What is the descent route? Is the decend down climbing? what shape is it in?

THe note about sizes is helpfull. I forgot to ask that and you beat me to it . I think I will pick up 2x 19cm, 2x13cm, and 2x10cm. I am thinking this will give me a good range. Would pick up a couple more but the $$, damn this sport can get expensive. Check out backcountrygear.com , they have DB express on sale for $42.

THanks for the help, with that said no Ti for me only DB. Ya I am only a 2 year old (in climbing years) but with that said just trying to get the right gear and the right amount the first time. I am at the point where I need gear to progress in my climbing, steeper and deeper the only way to go. North face I am only taking two pickets and 8 mil rope. I am heading to Shuksan june12-13.

I am looking into getting some ice screws. I was leaning to the Ushba Ultimate Ice screw the guy on cascadeclimber.com does not like them. he did not say why, so is there any reason they are not as bad as steel? The reason I was looking at the tit was the reduced weight. The other screw I was looking at was the BD turbo express ice screw. Looking for protection on 45 deg glacier, like north face of Shucksan (seems people use them later in the season). How many do you guys carry and what length? Thanks

I have had mine for a year and love them. The only time I had blisters was when I was practically running on the trail. Enjoy the boots, ya they are a bit heavy so I only use them for snow and low top approach shoes for everything else.

There is still a lot of snow up there. Today the conditions were perfect! did not summit due to white out. The first two miles range from no snow to intermintent snow. When you cross soap creek it is all snow, great for making a straight line to where ever you want to go. The steeper routes look great due to the amount of snow on them. enjoy.

Did you end up going to Pole Creek? I passed three climbers on my way out.

I have not been following the weather/snow fall that close on hood this past week. May own falt. How does the avi contidions look for friday night? I was planning on doing the dog route to summit at sunrise and board back down. Has there been enough snowfall for me to worry about avi?

So why is it that propane/butane fumes are better than liquid fuels for CO emitions? Do just not release as much CO as liquid, or is it that they just burn cleaner?

Holly cow so you know S.L.. Small world. It was windy up on table as well, but you could get out of it. On the top we did the tick lecture as well as some compass work for the newbies. We parked at the resort, our hike leader (person other than S.L.) only knew that way up.

I was wondering if that was you guys headed up to the ears. I was with a group of Mazamas headed up to Table Mt. Saw you just before you headed off trail on the way in. I was helping out with thier basic class, newbie conditioning hike. Glad you guys had a good climb.

The boots are La Sportiva Nepal Extreme. Good idea about going to the boot shop. Now why didn't I think of that.

nice try but my feet don't stink otherwise

I ended by leuthold. I was just wondering for future reference so I can beat my chest as well

My boots are starting to stink (too much hiking time) and I was wondering if there is anything I can do to stop it from getting worse, or do I have live with the fact that I am screwed.

I climbed reid headwall this weekend and was wondering what the average time on this route is starting from Timberline parking lot?