Chad_A

Hey, no problem. Maybe I could become "sponsored", eh, hahaha. Here's a pic of me climbing with your product. Now send me free shit

Yeah, sure did. No WI formed up yet (as of last Friday) but great seracing to be had.

Aha! Goddamn. See, I'm confused as usual. A permit is required, but no fee. Man, why do they have to make things so inefficient? Climbing Season - November 01-March 31 A permit is required. A permit fee is not charged. Climbing use is unrestricted. On-line registration is not required. You must register and pick up your permit at Jacks. http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/mount-st-helens/permit-system.shtml Climbing & Permit Fees Table Mount St. Helens - Climbing Permit Fee System Season Climbing Limits Fees Charged April 01 - May 14 n/a Fee Charged May 15 - October 31 100 permits per day Fee Charged November 01 - March 31 n/a n/a

Dru- forgot about that. Won't work on seracs (unless I find a real gentle one), but will be great on an easy WI climb. Stewart- Should I try that on lead?

Trying to prepare myself for (hopefully) a good upcoming season of ice climbing. People seem to talk about the swing of the ice tool often enough. More or less, I have that sorted. The issue that haunts me in ice climbing is foot trust. I've been told everything from "kick it hard; hammer it out and make your own foothold" to "place your feet on features and use rock climbing-like footwork to increase efficiency. If it's a sheet of ice, you still shouldn't have to kick that hard". I'm still experimenting with horizontal vs. vertical frontpoints; one of the problems, I believe, is that in experimenting, glacial ice/seracing (the closest reliable ice to PDX ) doesn't behave the same as a formed flow of water ice. At any rate, just looking for techniques and/or mind tricks that people do/use to get their foot trust on the upside...and the arm pumpage on the downside. Oh, and yes, I have Gadd's book, Luebben's book, and I do remember as much as I can to keep my damn heels low. -Chad

Hung Far Low. Restaurant (?) at 82nd and Division in PDX.

Got a guidebook? Good. Lets start from there. The route this time of year is scree/trail. Not so much fun, but it'll get you to the crater rim. Bring a short set of gaiters to keep the kitty litter out of your boots/shoes. Carry all the water you'll need to drink; you won't find any running water to get any from. Weather this time of year is changeable; get a solid forecast before you head up. There was some fresh snow up there, from what I saw from Hood the other day, but I'll bet it's gone by now. Have fun, take lots of pics. I believe that it's past permit season (or will be) so that's no longer an issue.

Hmmph, well I tried posting, but it seems to have disappeared. Attempt #2! It's late October...of course it's time for an ice stoke thread!

Thanks much for posting the reports.

^^^

Looking to do some seracing on Hood on this Friday. Might prefer to leave Thursday night (could leave super early Friday a.m. from PDX), camp up at Cloud Cap and drink a brew or two, crag until Friday afternoon, drive back to PDX. Flexible. I have ice tools (bring your own if at all possible), screws, rope(s), etc. PM me or shoot me an email (preferred) at anderson7149atcomcastdotnet Beer at preferred spot after climbing; Full Sail, Eliot Glacier Public House, Walking Man in Stevenson (WA), whatever. I just want to get some laps in. Up for it???

"Wow": is that all you got? Bring something else to the table eh? _______________________________________________ Follows 5.11, smart, great company, and has inner beauty and inner strength too. Not to mention that she probably can out drink most of us and was the winner of her div. in the drytool comp the other day too. I see pic one is snag ledge way too early in the am! I remember that I'd slept in that day:-) Pic 3 must be the summit of monkee face. pic 4 is Chicken Pot Pies, which looks great too. Bill, ask her for her ph#!!! (j/k) Happy B/day. Didn't know that was you at the icefest. Congrats, and have a good #24

Hi, Colin, From one Quark owner to one (ex)owner, what did you replace them with? Just curious; thanks for the input.

Thanks to you, too, Doug...but you made it look so easy! Don't give yourself away

Emory and thinner. Got it. Thanks

Long story short, my newer Sabretooths with the "Teflon" coating have turned into a rusty nightmare. Water got underneath edges of the chipped-off coating after a day or two of glacier cragging. I tried oiling them with some usual spray-lubricant, but they just look so damn ugly, I'm going to strip them down and repaint them black. I know that all poons rust, but this is ridiculous. And, no, I didn't leave them in a wet crampon bag for a couple of days. Just the nature of this coating, I guess. After I dremel off the remainder of the coating, what is recommended to take the oil off the 'pons so that the primer/paint will stick? Usual paint thinner? Any specific stuff I should use?

Good info. Seems like this changes often. I've heard that Hydrogen Peroxide not recommended by some, anymore, but I didn't know that Iodine, etc, were not recommeded as well.

Very fun, indeed. It was a great time; didn't think so many people would show up! Thanks to all the sponsors, to the PRG crew and owner for hosting it, and to Marcus and John for putting it all together. Maybe next time, we can do more routes, and go a bit later!

Oh, I guess it depends on what you plan on doing with it. There's probably people on here that would be better versed to answer this, but I'll take a general hack at it. Looks like you don't have anything real big, and if you plan on going rock climbing (in the sense of cragging, that is), you might want to fill in with a #3? Then maybe get a .75 to have something to place on lead easier when you're pumped than a tri-cam. If you're really comfortable placing tri-cams on lead, maybe pick up the #4 instead of the #.75? It all depends on what your priority is, and what you plan on doing, I'd guess. Hell, go for your favorite colors

Good to see you're still around, Doug.

Can I have the 70m rope now? How about one or both of the doubles?

I have a good excuse why I'll get my butt kicked...I plan on being drunk until the morning of the Ice Fest. Does that count? That, and I suck... Ok, on with the climbing!

Well, then here's to another Hope you're feeling better, Becky!

Oh, and the Columbia River Gorge doesn't have a hope in Hell of coming in again. There, that should do it.