Chad_A

Hung Far Low. Restaurant (?) at 82nd and Division in PDX.

Got a guidebook? Good. Lets start from there. The route this time of year is scree/trail. Not so much fun, but it'll get you to the crater rim. Bring a short set of gaiters to keep the kitty litter out of your boots/shoes. Carry all the water you'll need to drink; you won't find any running water to get any from. Weather this time of year is changeable; get a solid forecast before you head up. There was some fresh snow up there, from what I saw from Hood the other day, but I'll bet it's gone by now. Have fun, take lots of pics. I believe that it's past permit season (or will be) so that's no longer an issue.

Hmmph, well I tried posting, but it seems to have disappeared. Attempt #2! It's late October...of course it's time for an ice stoke thread!

Thanks much for posting the reports.

^^^

Looking to do some seracing on Hood on this Friday. Might prefer to leave Thursday night (could leave super early Friday a.m. from PDX), camp up at Cloud Cap and drink a brew or two, crag until Friday afternoon, drive back to PDX. Flexible. I have ice tools (bring your own if at all possible), screws, rope(s), etc. PM me or shoot me an email (preferred) at anderson7149atcomcastdotnet Beer at preferred spot after climbing; Full Sail, Eliot Glacier Public House, Walking Man in Stevenson (WA), whatever. I just want to get some laps in. Up for it???

"Wow": is that all you got? Bring something else to the table eh? _______________________________________________ Follows 5.11, smart, great company, and has inner beauty and inner strength too. Not to mention that she probably can out drink most of us and was the winner of her div. in the drytool comp the other day too. I see pic one is snag ledge way too early in the am! I remember that I'd slept in that day:-) Pic 3 must be the summit of monkee face. pic 4 is Chicken Pot Pies, which looks great too. Bill, ask her for her ph#!!! (j/k) Happy B/day. Didn't know that was you at the icefest. Congrats, and have a good #24

Thanks to you, too, Doug...but you made it look so easy! Don't give yourself away

Emory and thinner. Got it. Thanks

Long story short, my newer Sabretooths with the "Teflon" coating have turned into a rusty nightmare. Water got underneath edges of the chipped-off coating after a day or two of glacier cragging. I tried oiling them with some usual spray-lubricant, but they just look so damn ugly, I'm going to strip them down and repaint them black. I know that all poons rust, but this is ridiculous. And, no, I didn't leave them in a wet crampon bag for a couple of days. Just the nature of this coating, I guess. After I dremel off the remainder of the coating, what is recommended to take the oil off the 'pons so that the primer/paint will stick? Usual paint thinner? Any specific stuff I should use?

Good info. Seems like this changes often. I've heard that Hydrogen Peroxide not recommended by some, anymore, but I didn't know that Iodine, etc, were not recommeded as well.

Very fun, indeed. It was a great time; didn't think so many people would show up! Thanks to all the sponsors, to the PRG crew and owner for hosting it, and to Marcus and John for putting it all together. Maybe next time, we can do more routes, and go a bit later!

Oh, I guess it depends on what you plan on doing with it. There's probably people on here that would be better versed to answer this, but I'll take a general hack at it. Looks like you don't have anything real big, and if you plan on going rock climbing (in the sense of cragging, that is), you might want to fill in with a #3? Then maybe get a .75 to have something to place on lead easier when you're pumped than a tri-cam. If you're really comfortable placing tri-cams on lead, maybe pick up the #4 instead of the #.75? It all depends on what your priority is, and what you plan on doing, I'd guess. Hell, go for your favorite colors

Good to see you're still around, Doug.

Can I have the 70m rope now? How about one or both of the doubles?

I have a good excuse why I'll get my butt kicked...I plan on being drunk until the morning of the Ice Fest. Does that count? That, and I suck... Ok, on with the climbing!

Well, then here's to another Hope you're feeling better, Becky!

Oh, and the Columbia River Gorge doesn't have a hope in Hell of coming in again. There, that should do it.

It could go bad, but the snow is already fallin' up there real good in the Rockies, last time I heard. I suppose it could quit anytime, though.

Ouch! Hope you feel better. I don't know if you'll find too many people that have experience with this on this board...this is pretty rare in this demographic, I'd guess(?). Here's to a good recovery. I wonder what effect has on DVTs?

If it's a deep puncture, make sure you irrigate it first. Hydrogen Peroxide, Hibiclens, Iodine, whatever. If there's anything in there (dirt, whatever), you'll be sealing it in a nice enviromnent for bacteria to grow. I've used New Skin and Superglue with some athletic tape on top of it. Or, keep it clean and doused with triple antibiotic ointment until the morning of the outing, then glue it up. Don't really know of any 48 hour fixes though. Damaged tissue is damaged tissue

Oh, ok, since you're looking for strong opinions... I've climbed on Quarks for the last year or more. Like them, but had some good beta given to me by Marcus today on dropping the elbow with the wrist flick. It's not much of a realistic surface, but I keep a chunk of 2x8 screwed above my garage door to swing into as practice. As soon as I started dropping the elbow today, it made a difference (especially with my left arm that's not quite as good at swinging as my right). I hear rave reviews about Grivel picks (they seem to be stickier than the Petzl picks that I use), but that's only with a morning of screwing around with them. The best bang for the buck right now, seems to be either Vipers or Quarks. Both can be used leashed or leashless. I like the idea of the CF Cobras, but my smallish hands don't work real well with the larger grip. -Chad

Good info. I'm sure that if the cards are played right, a bike is the best way to go of all of this,IMHO. I have heard of the veggie diesel, the the "homemade" option is getting more scarce due to oil-giveaway by restaurants on the decline (why should they if they can sell it off?). That idea of running straight veggie oils is innovative in the way your friend is doing that. The toggle-switch idea is neat.

Just a quick note, (can't copy and past, it's in PDF format) "The current federal motorcycle standard is about 90 times the hydrocarbon standard for passenger cars" "the new regulations (2006) will only effect new motorcycles produced for the 2006 and later model years". Does that indicate that motorcycles, at least in the past, have been dirty? The PDF does point out that most motorcycles from 2002-2003 have had catalytic converters. http://www.epa.gov/OMS/regs/roadbike/420f03045.pdf