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ashw_justin

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Everything posted by ashw_justin

  1. Yeah!! Corpse-foot! YEAAAHH!!
  2. You could probably help yourself out a lot by drinking a liter of water an hour or so before you start out, in addition to your normal water rations.
  3. In that case, I'm gonna go out and downgrade/sandbag all of Mike's testpieces.
  4. Yeah? And your spelling sucks, genius. AND, if your reading comprehension was above the 2nd grade level, you'd realize that DFA is no longer arguing that the grading scale is correct. That's not spelling, that's grammar. I guess we both better go back to grade school. Hey, then we could beat the crap out of each other, and we'd just get timeouts.
  5. haha. You're grading scale chart is wrong dude. I don't see why you're still trying to argue otherwise.
  6. Yeah I guess you're right DFA. I better stop onsighting .10a's until I can pull down my first V3.
  7. Sounds like someone better come up with a cc.com Layton-izer. All route names converted and all photos replaced with Layton carnage.
  8. It's all about boulder problems with water landings at high tide. There are a couple easy ones at Clayton and that spot down the way on Post Point. You also send those better after a couple of beers. Or rather, your FA is not legit unless your hands and feet are soaking wet AND you already had a couple beers. In fact, Bellingham Beer Bouldering ratings go B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, B6, B2, B17, B-uh... in that order, indicating how many beers it takes before you can't send the problem. Also, the beers help you find boulder problems that weren't there before you partook of said beers. Bring your dog so he can fish you out on those hard B12's.
  9. Tell me you have skis/snowboard?
  10. haha, yeah, PRG is pretty clicky... you're either acquainted with someone in the awesome boulderer posse, or you climb alone and they avoid eye contact while waiting for you to get off their problem. Not that I really know what I'm talking about, I just went there a couple of times, tagging along with one of the cool guys.
  11. lol. Now it's more like, when you are too self-centered about your climbing badassness to belay. Haha, yeah, I know that wasn't fair. Somebody flame me!
  12. uh, which mag would that be?
  13. Prove it. Take the first half of data. Build a 6th-degree poly fitting it. Extrapolate the data and see how the predictions compare to the second half of the data. Notice how the predictions suck. QED ok fine, you get 10 points for your post. But you lose 9 of them for ignoring that the 6th-deg poly fit was just a joke!! Well you get them back if you do a periodic (sin/cos function) fit on {Dru} because it will probably be the most accurate prediction!!
  14. Oh man, North Face is looking sweet!!
  15. It's just sad that climbing has become so commodified and commercialized that anybody with a little bit of experience thinks they need to get paid before they're willing to share any of it. But hey, that's what you get in a capitalist system... EVERYTHING is business.
  16. ashw_justin

    You Are Suck

    Oh yeah maybe she is even old enough to drive...
  17. I ought to be down for midweek action next week... I think it's a little early for alpine rock and a little warm for ice (unless it's something high on a volcano). So I was thinking something involving skiing, or just some cragging. Or both. JoshK and swaterfall I know you are out there too...
  18. I think we need a dirty hippie emoticon
  19. you're getting lazy man!
  20. yeah I guess that doesn't look that hard does it. Rosario is like all 13's right?
  21. I have no idea so I'm gonna say, Rosario Beach!
  22. As you can already see, this website is not a good place to ask people how to climb safely. (edit: okay, some good posts have popped up while I was madly typing away...) You just get a bunch of young a-holes (myself maybe included) spraying BS because either they don't know and they don't want to admit it, or they do know but it can't be explained. You don't just push on like a dumbass maggot on pile of feces. That's a dumb way to climb. I think you just have to think about what you have control over, and how to maintain control over whatever that happens to be--because whatever those things are, they're the only things that you will be able to use to save yourself. A lot of times this turns out to be very little, because obviously we can't control the mountains. But that's okay because it's better to eliminate irrelevant worries while climbing, i.e. those things that scare us, but over which we have no control. So take SuperSavageBadassLethal Ridge. Once you decide that you are going to give it a shot, and find yourself on the route, climbing by whatever mode you deemed necessary, all you can really do is keep going until something convinces you otherwise. But you have to have enough awareness and experience to know when danger has been elevated to an unnacceptable level, and the judgement to alter your plans if necessary. Personally I doubt that it's even possible to always know exactly when to pull the plug. Sometimes it's even safer just to push on. But I think what's most important is that you are intelligent and aware enough to know when it's time to make a really important decision, that actually matters. What I mean by "matters" is that the choices are based on something you control, that depends on you and not on some uncontrollable aspect of the mountain. For example, you can't decide "the mountain is safe now." That's really not up to you. The only thing you can decide is whether or not you are going to climb it, and how, and under what circumstances you find it necessary to start trying to save your ass. And you won't know the answers to these questions until you get a lot of relevant experience. We can all use more of that. Of course to get this experience you have to climb. Until you feel that you can trust your own judgement, you'll just have to go out and be cautious, pay attention, and think about what you are doing and the possible consequences of your decisions. But don't overthink it to the point of paralyzing yourself. If something bothers you then figure out why and decide whether or not there is something you can do about it. And of course, learn from others, and their successes and failures. Then finally, when you've been climbing "forever," don't let this cloud and diminish your awareness. I don't want to start trying to analyze recent accidents but something like an avalanche or 100mph winds will take away all of your control and take all of the decisions out of your hands. Once you're at that point it's too late to climb safely. Either you made a bad choice during a critical decision that got you to that point, or it really is just bad luck. Sometimes that distinction depends on the climber, sometimes not. IMO the important thing is to know when it does. So as far as 'just going for it' in the face of risk, this is stupid if it's based solely on one's nutsack. For me, if I can convince myself that there is a safe way to keep going then I will. My definition of "safe" may be different from others', we all have our own levels of acceptable risk. But I can safely say that I don't have a great amount of experience, and because of that I tend to bail when I feel that I may be missing something.
  23. ashw_justin

    You Are Suck

    damn cracked you cradle-robber, thanks for posting a link to a bunch of 12-year-old premie-sluts.
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