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ashw_justin

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Everything posted by ashw_justin

  1. Larrabee does have a couple of short cracks. There are some descriptions here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=1375 Oyster Dome has a couple 5.9/5.10 sport lines but they are short and not really worth the hike. The views from the top, however, are worth the hike... Mt. Erie has some good sport. It really isn't too far from I-5. For 5.10 sport I'd recommend the Orange Wall.
  2. I went in there with a suit and tie on once and they were real nice-like.
  3. you could fill _both_ yer packs and bury them Ah gawd dammit, I just got this one.
  4. Oh yeah, well, after my extensive inspection of the belay anchors I had come to the conclusion that the picket system had 7 cumulative crust-layers and a non-shockload impact rating of 7.8 kN, and my voluntary backup from the buried shafts of one iceaxe and one ice tool provided a 0.9 kN redundancy.. Of course pickets are only as good as those placing them. I personally have never placed a picket that I would want to fall on. But then again, I've only ever placed pickets for fun...
  5. I've messed around with pickets in soft snow too and they do blow out pretty easily just as Alex describes. Seemed in soft snow that a sitting belay with feet and a seat stomped out was stronger than a hastily buried 36" picket. Of course in snow that soft, you ought to be able to self-arrest pretty easily. And in an emergency situation, how much time are you going to have to "work-harden" or dig a really good trench? I agree in soft snow you're better off assuming your picket is not the ticket. Hell I think I'd rather fill my pack with snow a bury that. But I always assumed that pickets were only reliable in fairly firm, dense snow, preferably with some strong crust layers if you're doing a vertical placement.
  6. Isn't that what - wears on his speed ascents?
  7. both not true So you're telling me that you've done an 8-mile approach to a boulder problem?
  8. I think bouldering is awesome. It's the quickest (and safest!) way to get good at doing really hard moves. But I think it lacks depth, and a sense of adventure. It's also a discipline in which you pretty much expect to fall A LOT, which is just not acceptable in contrasting modes of climbing, such as big trad routes. Plus you can boulder all day and kick all kinds of ass but there's neither an amazing alpine panorama at the end, nor an 8-mile stumble back to the car.
  9. uh... cross your eyes more... or go to my uw site it has a couple of easier ones...
  10. Yeah well the subject isn't very interesting, it's the idea...
  11. Haha. No way dude I'm gonna rock the ice old skewl.
  12. Yeah I just went with a 4-degree difference, which in 44" radius came out to about 3".
  13. So a photo on rockclimbing.com inspired me to experiment with stereo photography. Basically you just take two photos of something, with about 3 or 4 inches lateral difference, but focused on the same point. Then you line the images up side by side and cross your eyes to see the 3d image. I was thinking about doing this for mountains and rock routes. Has anyone tried that (outdoor shots)?
  14. Isn't there a poll about this? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=340541
  15. Neon Spandex freaks beware!! heheheh
  16. It's really committing because I lose like half of all my skin and blood if I bail.
  17. Run everybody! It's "Climbing" Magazine and they want to turn your favorite route into Disneyland for gumbies!! I'd like to say NE Ridge of Triumph, but I haven't done it yet... (snow, jumped the gun)
  18. Well I'm keeping this one secret for now, I don't want just anybody trying to send when I'm not around...
  19. SO dude, I was like gonna dyno to this righteous two-finger pocket but I just couldn't stick the slopers, I kept getting shut down by this blind crimper. So I can't tell you what the V-rating is, hopefully next week I get a little farther.
  20. You don't need to be a "baby" to be cradle-robbed, just way younger than the one trying to get witchyou. Actually I thought babies have a high fat %? BTW I'm not dissing on Cracked, I'm just sayin, there's lot of fish in the sea, and lots of em are old and hungry. heheheh.
  21. heheh... Cracked aren't you behaving yourself? Dang alls you gots to do is sit back and get cradle-robbed!
  22. ashw_justin

    F/ 911

    Not sure I want to see it... I don't want my "radical" left-wing views to be upstaged!
  23. Man you "seasoned" dudes know all the tricks, don't you?
  24. Or I take that back Gotterdamerung said he's in Iraq didn't he?
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