ashw_justin

Not for CS majors, eh? What is it then? Can I audit?

Ah, winter. I predict that tomorrow, Baker will look like this:

Everyone moves faster and more efficiently solo on this kind of ground. Pacing rules all. Once you go above your personal endurance threshold, you have at most a few hours before you crash. Chances are about 100% that the slowest member of the team will crash, unless they are smart enough to pace themselves in spite of others' himming and hawing. You're screwed the second you start trying to 'keep up' with anyone. It's not surprising that guided noobs have no understanding of this and have to get ditched. But the guide has failed in some aspect when he has chosen a pace that is too fast for the lowest common denominator.

Hell, see if I care, one less brain to feed. Son, you're obviously too smart for the system. Now, go forth, and be disillusioned.

you're grading already?

well there's one next to Goddess, and then another further left around the corner. Pretty short though. the first one is "E" here: From deceptioncrags.com

ok quick poll: Placing a bolt on rap, well out of reach, with the intention of hanging a long fixed draw off it, leaving stuff hanging off the wall and requiring climbers to pinkpoint on the fixed draw. Ethical?

Bah! I've climbed all the cracks at 32. All 3 of them. (no, Abo and that 5.9 at WWI do not count ). But that's besides the point. I was just trying to say something remotely relevant to the dude's question.

Ok. You see a lot of extra-long, fixed quickdraws and obligatory pinkpointing at places like exit 32 (Little Si). Witnessing this, your first question (indeed mine) is something like "why are all of these mutant strong dudes too wussy to place their own gear?" But then you realize that the bolts were not necessarily installed in the ideal place for clipping, rather they were placed specifically so that 'permanent' quickdraws hang down into the ideal clipping spot. Of course the ethical implications of this are a whole different argument. But I assume a lot of these bolts were not placed on lead. I'm sure someone like rumr would have more to say about that. How's that for an OT post! oh and come on, sticking up for whitey that's pretty funny.

Geek, what are you saying? Sport-climbing doesn't need you to stick up for it. That's like sticking up for the MAN, or for whitey.

No there's no chipping it's just these rugged sportos with chiselfingers. I hear they can ice climb with their bare hands!

Squid! The one time I PM you, you are banned?

So if you add a bolt to a route, does it make it harder? Clipping wastes valuable strength and energy. No, I'm serious... I bet some redpoints are made easier by clipping only the crux bolt. Is that done?

When we decended the W ridge, we followed the ridge down to the first col (4 30m raps or something?), then scrambled back over to the S face, where we found some tat slung around a precarious-looking block. From there is was three raps down vertical rock face before reaching more moderate ground, at the apex of the south buttress. There was some down-scrambling on the buttress, and a couple more rapels to reach the glacier. The last part of which we didn't do until the next day, having decided to bivy on some nice little ledges at the top of the buttress, due to darkness (we summitted at 4pm, having started up the initial steep trail around 5am). (Luckily we had brought all of our bivy gear with us on the climb--which was extra-fun in the S face chimney pitches.)

and there's that building cities in flood planes and below sea level thing. so how about that catastrophic earthquake that's going to happen here soon? I plan on looting REI for, um, rescue gear.

rugby: soccer+football/2. And you CAN pass downfield, you just have to do it with your boot.

I read this hilarious article in the Times about how people were looting Walmart. It was written in a tone as if it were soooo horrible... Yeah. Poor, poor megacorporation. Fuck Walmart. People are dead and dying, Jesus... Fucking racist retards.

cool, a satyr!

It's good, but get's old kinda fast...

As I don't watch TV, ever, I've missed all of the sensationalism. But I have not forgotten that the media will say anything, anything to make you pay more attention.

must run if the family.

It is physically impossible for a vehicle to get better mileage at higher speed, unless it is because of gearing (there are optimally efficient rates of engine revolution).

You'd think that the mammoth fuel consumption would be enough of a deterrent, but no... On a related note, I want to see another regular lane turned into a carpool lane, to be enforced only during rush hour.

hmm... ok, sorry though. should just keep my mouth shut I guess.

Ah yes. Angry liberal anti-southern dogma finally rears its ugly head. I knew it wouldn't take too long. folks, is this guy really as stupid as he comes off as? i'm from the south bitch, and i'd just as rather gouge yer eyes out n' skoalfukya as 'plain to you the irony that me, a liberal (which historically just meant that you believed all folks oughta have representation in the political system (THE HORROR!), can get so worked up over your stupid duck-quacking as to want to put my own principles aside and give you what you want, crucifixation zulu-style, w/ stakes pounded up your ass so you get a sense of the taste of your own medicine. what are your southern credentials? who the fuck cares anyway? assholes live everywhere - you should know... i'm w/ josh - i love a good human disaster story. next i wanna see seatac get buried in 50 feet of lahars - take pictures for me please so i have somethign to jerk off to 'fore i go to blissful sleep. Fuck off retard, I'm saying I hate the south, not southerners. A shitload of people are suffering because they live in a shitty place. I know it's not their fault. I'd fucking hate the northwest if all the volcanoes started erupting and killing all of my friends and family. knock on wood. FWIW I also hate skyscrapers.