dan_forester

operation iraqi freedom

"Distrust any enterprise that requires new clothes." -HD Thoreau

I've visited China; does that make me qualified to comment? China's a beautiful country and the people I met there were great. But it is an environmental nightmare and their government is very repressive. What they've done in Tibet alone is appalling enough to make conscientious people think twice about supporting such a regime, directly or indirectly. On top of that the recent lapses in manufacturing quality control (just heard last night about another children's toy that had 10x the acceptable amount of lead) should be giving us pause about stuff made in the middle kingdom. I like c4's but this will make me consider other options next time I'm buying cams... I think carl hits the nail on the head here:

the couple of times I've stopped by there in the last half year or so (pockets literally stuffed with cash, ducats, cowrie shells, etc., desperate to exchange legal tender for climbing gadgets at my favorite climbing shop)...they've been closed. I just can't ever remember their odd hours. too bad because I really do like climb max. maybe I'll try to swing by this Saturday.

wow, is it tauntuan season already? summer just flew by.

on a related note, looks like ohio's really in for it...

esquimaux

I heard that Lewis & Clark got totally busted when they came back - turns out their original permit was only for one year.

what, you don't already? I thought everyone knew that a virgin (or given the relative scarcity of virgins, a sheep or goat) was pretty much the 11th essential for a successful summit bid.

I'm going to try to make it. See you there, Bill?

look for "illumination rock"

if I was hanging in space & couldn't get back on the rock I'd think about using my prussiks to get past the difficulty. how exactly did you (on rappel) help her get over the roof?

So I borrowed Bill's yates adjustable daisies (thanks Bill!) & tried them out this weekend. The verdict: I like them better than my standard daisy + fifi setup and this will probably be the next piece of gear I get. I didn't get into the top step but found that the adjustables made the second step a lot more comfortable (no worrying about shifting and having the fifi pop out). I think on really steep terrain these would make a big difference. Like Ivan said, though, you do have to extend the webbing fully after taking it off your last piece, which is an extra step, but I think with some practice I could manage to do this quickly & efficiently. For jugging they work great. I'm kind of hapless and awkward when it comes to jugging and cleaning (just need a lot more practice), and the adjustables make getting the right extension really easy. It's especially nice to be able to quickly reduce or extend the length in the middle of a pitch (like if the steepness of the terrain changes), without having to fool around with carabiners. Thanks to Moof too for all the aid tips and the patient belay yesterday (ps check your PMs re: your #3 camalot).

thanks cluck & fgw for the approach/climb beta. my buddy Tom & I went up to the rabbit ears yesterday. I think we took a little different path to get there - after scouting it out on the "2 chiefs trail" we took the pct west from the spur trail junction maybe 3/4 mile, then bushwhacked north/northeast to the base of the gully on the east side. we didn't gain too much elevation on the bushwhack, so it was pretty easy. the 3rd class dirt thrutch/root pulling extravaganza was among the best I've ever done, complete with rotten-log-ladder climbing. and I won't spoil the adventure quality of this route by offering too much specific beta, but I will say you can leave most of your rack at home for this one. long slings to hitch tiny pine trees provided the best pro for the route. I did get a couple of larger cam placements in that provided some measure of mental comfort. bring webbing for the rap anchors (a couple bolts, and pitons placed by the ancients). the view from the summit is pretty awesome, actually made me wish I'd brought a camera. and the rock quality rivals that of some of Oregon's most majestic peaks...by which of course I mean that it's really, really awful. probably a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me.

well, there's always dove-shooting & brush-clearing.

sent you a pm, alex

I'm looking for a partner to do some aiding Sunday at Beacon.

I got as far as "American Caligula" When W puts his favorite horse up for Attorney General, then we can really start to worry.

I was thinking 180 degrees different - isn't that beacon in the background? and Adams? oh, and the COLUMBIA RIVER? Ivan, did you take too much poison oak medication?

I was thinking 180 degrees different - isn't that beacon in the background? and Adams?

thanks for the history, Wayne. I didn't know you'd soloed it - all I can say is I'm impressed. It looks like a real horror show! Is the "davis ramp" that ramp-looking-like thing in the picture (on what I'm guessing is the sw corner)?

I just use the dodge guide for everything...hey, anyone want to hit up st peter's dome after work today?

sounds.....passive-aggressive!

Bill that sounds like an excellent idea; if the weather cooperates I will be giving them a try this weekend. Thanks again!