dan_forester

is this stuff JosephH-approved for use at Beacon?

that's a good point. I guess I'm imagining a situation where you've got 2 pieces that are each very solid from 1 direction of pull (one good for upward, one good for downward), where the lower piece needs to be tensioned to keep it from falling out of its placement.

well, you'd want to clip the runner through both biners before wrapping the runner around one of them, so it shouldn't pull through. how would you tension the pieces with a girth hitch? I don't think you could.

no, that makes sense - that's how I do it, except I think I usually wrap the top biner. any difference between wrapping the top biner vs the bottom biner? if there's no slack in the runner it should distribute the force more or less evenly in the even of a fall, right?

A question for all the gear experts - what's your preferred method of opposing 2 passive pieces to create a multi-directional point of protection? I usually clip a long runner through both biners, then wind the runner around the top biner to tension the runner, then tie off with an overhand knot (& clip the rope to a biner on that loop). Is this how you do it, or do you have another way? I've tried using a clove hitch on the top biner but it seems way too awkward. Also, how many of you prefer to make a pair of opposed passive pieces your 1st point of protection rather than using a cam? The talk about cams in another thread got me thinking about how we sometimes might automatically consider cams bombproof/multidirectional when in fact they might be marginal, and we might be better off with a pair of opposed passive pieces. Obviously, it's all situation dependant, and you have to consider position of belayer, condition of rock, the stance you're at, where your next bomber placement is, etc, but I'd like to hear thoughts from the folks who place a lot of gear, especially those who started climbing in the pre-SLCD era.

does that mean they'll have 460% more fun this year than last year?

you've come a long way, baby?

"I feel underdressed"

Keith Richards would do it for sure.

make sure not to deface any rock when you're off looking for the Temple of Doom! we'll let you know how the trail building goes!

the only thing wrong with the iraq war is that it's going so well, it just makes you want to invade more countries. if you're VP Cheney, anyway.

obviously it's situation-dependent. sometimes it's fine to just clip to the cam sling, other times you need a long runner.

I'll see what the tea leaves read in the morning - maybe see you guys out there.

I was thinking of something along the lines of "you've been a naughty boy, Mahmoud," but foraker's is tops. congratulations!

you guys are optimistic - think it's going to be dry enough? Let me know if there's room for one more on your beacon party.

now that the secrets' out, that place has really gone to the dogs!

some more food for thought - buying close to home helps your neighbors eat. it's at least worth taking into consideration, along with the many other things that you'll be thinking about when you buy your next set of cams.

singin in the rain purple rain

rainy day woman #12 & 35 rainy day, dream away november rain

hello, I saw your post on exhaust pipe. I think this could be very useful for acclimitudizination? please to tell where to get? Also looking for trip buddies for 8000K jewels, don't pay to climb - check out our website at

Porter, there's a character in "London Fields" by Martin Amis who has this same problem. For your reading list.

a couple of years ago at smith I saw a kid deck after he fell and all (3-4?) his pieces pulled out. they were all cams, I'm pretty sure. he was ok, luckily. I seem to remember he was clipping the slings on the cams (not extending w/ draws), and the pieces rotated out of their placements when the rope came tight.

hmm, I usually just rely on my tauntaun's natural instincts for bad weather... just kidding, thanks Joseph. here's a couple more that might be useful: Nat'l Weather Service - Western Region and Northwest Weather & Avalanche Center

can you rip them in half with your bare hands?