John Frieh
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Everything posted by John Frieh
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who knows... maybe hiding under your flake is the next smith rocks scarface! Pry it off and pull on the lycra!
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This fall. I'll try to snap a few close up pics of the hanger, teeth, etc tomorrow. Speak for yourself, John. Come September/October, I'll take what I can get! Sept/Oct: Columbia Ice Fields or TRing in a glacier... hmmm... This: or this...
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not interested in plastics
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I can't wear La Sportiva. The Spanktik (the yeller ones) and the Nuptse are made by La Sportiva.
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La Sportiva Spanktik and Nuptse Vasque Ice 9000 Scarpa Phantom Lite Boreal G1 Millet Alpinist GTX Who am I forgetting? For those of you that can't get a good fit out of La Sportiva who/what did you go with? And oh yeah... not interested in plastics.
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Just hop the light rail Mikey! You can enjoy a cup to stump and your latest book from Powells or talk to a cute girl instead of screaming at morons who don't know how to merge oh... wait... nevermind... PS don't let the door hit in the on the way out of town beeyotch
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Kurt covered most of it... - 2 clip in points on the hanger for cleaner belays and/or less leverage on the screw in overhanging terrain (not that 97% of people on this site would ever find themselves on terrain that steep ) - in addition to 2 clip in points the hanger has a different finish - the knob is much larger and tapered so it is even easier to grasp/spin - knobs are color coded for size using same scheme as camalots (red, yellow, etc etc) the clincher on the new design (at least for me) is the teeth length has been increased... in the right hands (i.e someone that climbs ice more than 5x days a year and no TRing in a glacier doesn't count) this will result in much faster and easier starting of a placement... no more pumping out while trying to get a screw started all of these features coupled with the ice screw that fractures ice the least when placed makes for the best screw on the market IMO I'll try to get a photo or two posted
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New kings is a great album... I thought their first two were just so so... can't wait for the new arctic monkeys May 2nd in PDX :rawk:
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New BD ice screw next year. Beats the shit out of everything. Quarks are not being discontinued... PC is releasing an attachment similar to the BD strike for the quark.
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I don't know if I would recommend Agnes Creek to anyone unless they have been in that way before. Much more challenging route finding wise than the standard PT start/finish (find Bachelor Creek and following that to Downey Creek)... And it doesn't help that Beckey's description/beta for Agnes Creek contains some errors.
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Skiers and/or climbers... How is the snowpack around Hwy 20 (especially west of the crest)? Comments/observations on overall stability, layers, recent snowfall, faces you know that have slid, any pics, etc etc would be greatly appreciated.
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I wear large cloudveil drytooling gloves and I couldn't get my pinky onto the tool. Literally. If the new cobra's grip is as tight as the prototype they were showing at the show, and you have large hands, forget about it. Same with the vipers. None of the guys who wandered over to the booth with me could fit their fingers in the pinky grip either, one fat fingered desert rat couldn't even get his hand on without gloves! BD has enlarged the fang so that all you sausage finger kids can get your mitts on them. Anybody shopping for a pair of quarks or nomics?
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Steph Davis Book Tour/Slide Show in Portland
John Frieh replied to Ashley Knecht's topic in Events Forum
I have the utmost respect for Dean and especially Steph for their contributions to the climbing community and pushing the standards in a number of disciplines. Steph has worked extremely hard to accomplish things in what is an almost exclusive boys club: hard alpine. I hope she continues to pursue her goals and inspire other women to pick up the torch especially after losing Karen and Sue. However given their track record of leaving trash on projects the DA issue was merely the straw the broke the camels (or in this case the sponsers) back. Trying to fault Patagonia for Steph and Deans' choices over the years is the stupidest thing I have heard since the velvet 8 thought promoting their rescue was a way to fight MLU legislation. Patagonia was their employer and like an employer Patagonia had certain rules to employment. Don't like them? Work for some else. I would highly encourage you to pick up this months Fortune magazine and give it a read before blasting Patagonia. If Patagonia is the antagonist here why aren't you throwing a fit over black diamond? They dropped them both last year... well before Patagonia. Or are you going to try and tell me it is a big great pacific iron works/chouinard equipment/lost arrow corp/patagonia/black diamond conspiracy? And unless you plan on posting under your real name don't bother citing "facts". -
Anything to do with desalination You can thank me in 30 years. And get some Intel stock while you are at it.
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[TR] Snoqualmie Mountain - Pineapple Express 3/26/
John Frieh replied to marcus's topic in Alpine Lakes
Strong work guys Roj will be stoked his route is getting some traffic... looks like the new snoqual test piece... at least until Sky and Ross ski it Must be all that snowshoe drytool bouldering you have been doing That or you aided it -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Look for my gray truck. Park next to it. Walk along the railroad tracks. If you want to follow me there call me and we can meet in SW before driving there. -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Take Country club turn S on Iron Mt, head to North shore blvd Cabana. Park at that space right at the RR tracks (Union Pacific on the map). Look west @ 1/2 a city block right down the tracks, theres a shitty little bolted rat hole right there. Bring your own partner, rope and draws. Bill: what time? -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
As if stealing his bananas wasn't enough -
Steph Davis Book Tour/Slide Show in Portland
John Frieh replied to Ashley Knecht's topic in Events Forum
Patagonia PDX is showing some awesome art this Thursday also... worth stopping by if you can make it -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
I am in PHX Wed am - Thur evening so it will have to be Tuesday or anytime Friday... Tuesday Bill? As of Sun morning: - SilverB area was dry but the routes to the right of it were still seeping. - White Rabbit and Birds were dry but the the crack climbs left of that were wet. Elisif is out there now... I think she will have an update later. In other news: A few "climbers of interest" (see: sponsored athletes) are going to be in town this week... I expect we will be getting beers Thursday night at a location yet to be determined so if you are interested in hanging out with some very cool people who happen to climb very hard shoot me a pm -
I don't know dude... I got slapped this last Tuesday :blush: I think Colin has me beat being heir to the almond roca fortune and all