John Frieh

If the plan goes through as currently defined you will have to ski/hike from BEFORE the dam. http://montanaice.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=1 http://cobalt.rocky.edu/~kalakayt/SMCC/Hyalite_map.pdf http://cobalt.rocky.edu/~kalakayt/SMCC/Hyalite_document.pdf http://cobalt.rocky.edu/~kalakayt/SMCC/Hyalite_table.pdf http://cobalt.rocky.edu/~kalakayt/SMCC/Hyalite_ROD.pdf

Trip: Hyalite - winds of change Date: 12/19/2006 Trip Report: Guilty Parties: Mark Harro (insert favorite brokeback mtn joke here): Marcus D (Kumbaya My Lord... Kumbaya): So the plan was BBB in CO but the windstorm Thursday canceled our flights so MD and I reset and headed for Hyalite as word on the street was Narcolepsy was in... Narcolepsy was put up in 1995 and as far as anybody knows hasn't been in since then. That and Hyalite is going off this year... alpine drive start: mandatory stop in Hood River: Daniel Harro put me in contact with his bro Mark (Daniel and Mark are the other Team Harro ) who was kind enough to let us couch surf at his place. As it was so balmy we opted for later starts (or alpine starts if your name is Bryan Schmitz ) on routes that catch morning sun so they would be more plastic instead of brittle. It just so turns out Narcolepsy is east facing so we headed up there on Sunday (Narc on the right): We must have had the right idea as we ran into Joe Josephson (JoJo) at the base of Narc... JoJo is a funny SOB and very cool guy. JoJo spouting beta :grlaf: : JoJo on Narc: Marcus gets his turn: Marko: While we waited for JoJo's group we gave lurking smear (another rarely formed route just CL of Narc) a go but the morning sun had delamed it so we bailed: After we all earned our Narc merit badge we stopped at champagne sherbet on the way back to the car: Monday Marcus and I snuck a quick lap on the good looking one before headed back home. Marcus looking good on the good looking one: Quotable quotes: ...you know... I can totally understand how disappointing it must be for you guys to not be from Alaska... ...well in JoJo's book he said...I AM JOJO!!!!! THAT'S ME!!! ...Hey! Leave some ice for the rest of us! ...I making an ice sculpture! I'm making a swan! ...Make me a dolphin! ...I'll just get extra cheese on my omelet... that should plug me up long enough so I don't have to dump in the woods. ...THE PENGUIN PUMP! ...oh... THAT Bryan Schmitz... ...that's creamy Brazilian... ...Hey Mr. Guidebook Author guy... where is the next tool placement? IN YOUR BUTTHOLE! ...my tools are definitely not limiting my climbing. ...the power is still out at my house so I bivyed in the Pearl ...cc.com?!?! Oh that website where everyone is too chickenshit to use their real name... ...any day I tie in is a good day. Any day I tie in and swing a tool is a great day. But any day I tie in, swing a tool and sleep in my own bed is an excellent day... If you still aren't sold compare this pic to the one in your guidebook... can you say fat? Gear Notes: stumptown Etc: if the gate goes in next year this could be your last year to climb a lot of these climbs unless you own a big snowmachine

Hey all I'm going to guess almost all of you can't or won't drive to Bozeman just for this meeting but if you are headed that way or already out there (Hi BillA ) I would encourage you to attend. Myself or JoJo will be posting updates in this thread... hopefully their will be some opportunity for some of us to get involved without physically driving to Bozeman. Details on the Gallatin National Forest travel plan can be found on montanaice.com. It doesn't look good for ice climbers at this point. I hope you all take a little time to get involved.

Hey all I'm going to guess almost all of you can't or won't drive to Bozeman just for this meeting but if you are headed that way or already out there (Hi BillA ) I would encourage you to attend. Myself or JoJo will be posting updates in this thread... hopefully their will be some opportunity for some of us to get involved without physically driving to Bozeman. Details on the Gallatin National Forest travel plan can be found on montanaice.com. It doesn't look good for ice climbers at this point. I hope you all take a little time to get involved.

2006: Roots - Game Theory Clipse - Hell Hath No Fury The Game - Doctor's Advocate Jay-Z - Kingdom Come Muse - Black Holes & Revelations Neko Case - Fox Confessor Brings The Flood Jenny Lewis & the Watson Twins - Rabbit Fur Coat Josh Ritter - In the Dark Live at Vicar Street Josh Ritter - Good Man EP Josh Ritter - Animal Years Blood Meridian - Kick up the Dust Arctic Monkeys - Whatever People Say I Am That's What I'm Not Michael Franti and Spearhead - Yell Fire The Coup - Pick a Bigger Weapon MF DOOM - Special Herbs: The Box Set etc etc etc Give me a shout if you want to swap some music

I saw from another thread Carolyn might be there... was curious if anyone else was gonna be around... might have an ouray pub club if that's okay with you

Anybody gonna be there this weekend?

No it doesn't.

Found someone If you are going to be out there during this time shoot me a pm if you want to connect for a Cody Pub Club.

...

Be able to leave PDX (or meet us some where along the way) early Jan 7th for Cody. Back some time on Jan 14th. Consistent WI4 leader minimum. Have funds to split gas and lodging. PM or call me: 503.758.5772

Nice d00d! Was this lap # 2 for the season? Looks fatter than when MD and I did it... no fair! Good to see studying for finals isn't interfering with your extracurricular activities I'll see you soon! For anybody else thinking about this route: you can run pitches 2 and 3 together with 60s and a tad bit of simul climbing.

Good climbs but go do DNB on Bear while you still can. As good as CNR on Stuie IMO (though more wild alpine feel and no crowds). Stalker

A smart card player keeps his cards on his chest Previous posts huh? Stalker You should have introduced yourself at the slideshow... I don't bite

For Select 1 first edition the crux will be EDMR For Select 1 second edition the crux will be Yokum Hey Jim: any plans for Select 2 second edition? If so are you taking nominations for additional climbs?

Mods this should be in the TR index:

In Select 1 first edition I'm short 5... in Select 1 2nd edition I'm short 7. Though it would be cool to do them all it isn't a goal of mine so I don't expect to be done anytime soon... one I'm missing is the DC on Rainier and it would take some serious blackmailing to get me to set foot on that route... That and I have seen what Idaho has to offer as far as climbing Jens: it took me 4 years and 4 attempts to climb the west face of the north peak of gunsight... I hope you have much better luck than I did in order to get it done in time to meet your goal. Here's to anyone getting out as much as possible to climb anything... selected or unselected

Visors may be geeky but considering a glass eye or broken teeth is the alternative I'll take geeky. - Petzl Vision: mounts on any helmet you can drill a hole in... fits best on an elios or meteor III. Generally will protect forehead/eye ball/nose area but teeth and chin are exposed. Folds up and stows nicely but makes wearing a headlamp a bitch. Best compromise is to get a headlamp with just a circular strap and not one that has an additional strap that goes over the top of your helmet. Still a pain. Only visor that is light enough for use in the alpine IMO. Vision fogging up concern: inside of vision is treated/coated with antifog stuff that works very very well... keep the vision clean and recoat with google antifog wipe from time to time and you are set. For my usage level I trashed one roughly every 3 months... generally the shield would rip off at one of the two attachment points. This wasn't a problem as REI was carrying them but REI has since stopped so I no longer crag in mine. - Grivel Gladiator: bombproof. IMO it stick out to far and tends to get caught on the rock when you are in close like pulling lips etc etc. Basically a girl's field hockey mask. Doesn't fog up obviously. My recommendation: - If your portfolio is doing great this year and/or you have a trusting boyfriend/partner you can sponge off of get the gladiator for drytooling (assuming you do that during the week to stay strong) and the vision for just alpine/ice/anytime weight is a concern action. - If you are poor for whatever reason (student, online gambling habit, child support payment, etc etc ) go to your local used gear store and get a girl's field hockey mask. Finally when the vision does wear out don't come here and start a cry-baby-Petzl-sucks-this-crap-breaks-the guy-at-REI-wouldn't-return-it-thread. Even if you broke it the first time using it I can promise you 50 bucks is cheaper than stitches, etc etc.

The coffee beans told me. They tell me things.

Whatever dude... you know you only drink coffee at the coop in your patagonia down jacket, brand new pressed and ironed carhartts and matching beanie all while sharing beta on how rad G1 is

Yes the rumors are true. Stumptown in SEA soon. Might as well cancel that colon clean you had scheduled If you want to try some before that I will be at the Westman slideshow this week... shoot me a PM and we can work something out Selkirk has the right idea... were are all the coffee shops on the way? You guys road trip right? Any good coffee in... Ellensburg? Cle Elum? Leavenworth? Monroe? Index? Mount Vernon? Twisp? Winthrop? Wenatchee? Spokane? Bozeman? Butte? Missoula? Boise? etc? etc? What I have been doing for trips east is pregrinding some beans and then just using the hot water at any gas station and my french press coffee mug... cheaper and makes for much happier kidneys

If you want some TG IPA or perhaps (based on other recent threads) a pound of stumptown hairbender shoot me a PM. See you turds there