John Frieh
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Everything posted by John Frieh
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5th quadrant 7:30 pm?
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Crossfit and Pavel use random periodization... this approach has been proven as a viable general physical preparation program... it uses the idea of randomness and intensity to elicit rapid gains and adaptations for users. As far as I have seen there is not a lot out there WRT programming (as it is random) but in general power endurance and metabolic conditioning efforts are emphasized over max effort strength training. People estimate that using a random programming approach will result in achieving 65-70% of you potential in your sport. As detailed in this issue of Outside Twight attended a CF level 1 in 2003 and "got his ass kicked"... he ended up affiliating for a few years before Twight concluded the CF approach of random was coming at the cost of sport specific training/performance. As a result Twight now uses CF as a foundation but has since moved to conjugate periodization with a cyclic emphasis... the catch is if you watch/follow the WODs posted on gym jones you wont see this/wont be getting this as Twight/Maximus selectively post a particular client's WOD... each client there is training for something different and as a result does a different WOD (often not always the one posted). What Dane mentions: is what Twight was/is trying to do @ gym jones... unfortunately the bulk of "higher caliber" gym jones cliental are MMA fighters. Rob @ mtnathlete is IMO making leaps and bounds in this area... just spend 20 minutes looking at the workouts and you will see Rob blending CF w/ sport specific training in one session. Additionally Rob has some badass alpinists training at his gym giving his real time feedback on his programming/WOD design so he is constantly tweaking it to deliver the best sport specific training. If you ask me look for a lot more from him in the coming years And I assume you are talking about training for alpine climbing or are you referring to training for rock climbing?
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[TR] Yosemite - El Capitan - Zodiac 10/15/2008
John Frieh replied to underworld's topic in California
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A) 8? Kinda depends on who you are comparing me against B) Yes C) I use conjugate periodation as a foundation w/ reoccuring cyclic emphasis on certain fitness attributes I feel benefical to my overall fitness/climbing goals.
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Rule #1: Yard Sale Rules
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Check. Ill buy Ivan's also
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Both great pons. I believe BD model is a little lighter than the M10. Whatever you get make sure you pick up an extra pair of replacement front points. If having the mono option isnt a requirement for you the dartwin is a very light dual vertical front point option.
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[video:youtube] Get some.
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If I had more disposable income I would climb on 7.7 mm doubles but unless it is a pure ice route (rare around here especially if you chase the alpine) you ropes are going to die quickly... dragging them around corners, through flakes, etc etc To me 8.1 is a good compromise between weight savings and durability. I'm sure others will disagree with me Why I roll with an 8.1 tag line is if the lead rope takes a hit/damage I can still lead on the 8.1 double in a pinch. I do have a 6mm tag line I take on routes that I am confident potential damage to the lead rope is low. 30 m raps are great if you dont have to worry about objective hazards from above but again: lots of alpine routes merit quick ascent and descent. I did 10 or so raps down GCC on Kitchener last weekend with 2 70 m ropes... doing 20 under the cornice sounds dumb + I would have likely had to leave 2x as much rap tat (i.e. my slings). If you dont want the second to have to follow with the tag line just trail it or if it is a sketchy pitch clip it as a double... most of the skinny ropes on the market are rated as a double also (I climb on a joker).
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Hey Jesse: you already have a set of doubles? If so why are you thinking about a pair of twins? Only because of the rope cluster issue? Until recently I've always climbed ice on 8.1 doubles and really liked it but yes one must stay vigilant with rope management or you will see a cluster (I still get one time to time). Recently I've been leading on a single 9.1 and keeping an 8.1 in the followers pack in case we need to bail.
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Nice work everyone. Thanks for the full-res Loren
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[TR] Observation Rock - North Face 10/18/2008
John Frieh replied to Braydon's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Nice work guys -
Graybeard. Nelson Selected Vol 2 pg 165
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If either of you have access to HC you dont have to pay for go get checked out. Also loose loose shoes + keep them super warm (I've been doing 2x pair of socks). If it is the hands then wear gloves every where. What you do after the damage is done dictates how quickly/well you recover! Hyalite: I'm still planning on the festival this year. Email me if you want to hit that up or want to plan a different trip. Also based on the posts on gravsports so far it looks like the rockies are going to be epic this year...
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What Bill said Dont know... I've climbed in the same boots I was using in those temps before so it was a surprise to me. I felt my feet go numb once on route but I also felt them come back so I'm kinda stumped by the whole thing... my best guess is maybe because we were out in it for so long (left the tent @ 2:55 am). Bryan didnt get hit though I did come eye to eye with him... minus a few scrapes I'm fine. I'm just really dissappointed I blew our summit... we were where we needed to be to top out that day... losing the screws in the fall canceled that though. Now I have to do that damn approach again
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Never on the hands including this trip though both Bryan and I climbed the initial 3k in our belay gloves (which froze into the gripped position) w/ handwarmers in them. I have two blisters currently + a brightly colored toe (black, red, yellow... basically various shades of gross). Saw a doc on monday who spent more time telling me how stupid my sport was instead of what do for it. Saw a foot podiatrist on Tuesday who checked things out and said I will make a full recovery assuming I take it easy this month (no climbing or high impact stuff like box jumps or running). Also got a lot of good beta from some of the posters on this board who've had some form before (thanks guys and gals!) All in all I think I got off easy at least compared to some of the other stories I have heard... havent gotten a hold of Bryan yet though... I know he was looking @ frost nip at least when I saw him on Sunday. Bryan: what up? Looks like I have to spring for a pair of double boots though as singles might be out of the question this winter
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Ha ha ha! Posted on the Crossfit site: I got it:-) Congrats to you both! TR? At least for today: Mountain Athlete
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18 mile ski. Hwy 20 closes @ MP 170 and 134 each winter.
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GCC You're famous! link
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Though likely not as funny now as many of the original pics are now gone the annabelle bond thread was/is classic
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Alpinist Weekly Feature Mr Scurlock
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alpinist TV