John Frieh

You're forgetting stitches per inch. But it sounds like you're already made up your mind. Looking forward to a TR with you using your tent!

Bolts are for protection not sentimental value. Replace all the bolts. Use the existing hole if possible. Thanks for the community service Moof.

You cant help it... you're from the east coast BD is actually extremely selective in their raw material sourcing as well as product testing, etc etc hence the loyal following by many of us here and on other forums. I’d say the proof is in the pudding: if you are so confident in your hypothesis take your Wenzel tent as described above on some serious gnar (Mt Washington in winter or something) and post a TR w/ pics. I suspect many of us would give your recommendation more credibility when you have some substance to show for. Cheers!

Driven by recently and had a look? Picture perhaps? Know someone in the area that could snap a photo? Any beta/conditions info would be awesome!

STOKE BUMP FEAT OF STRENGTH!

Packing for tomorrow

Ill be looking for one of those in next year's ice catalog. Slut. Way to make it look easy!

Climbed at Mist today. Pump house is in also. Crown is climbable now or later in the week depending on your screw selection. Climb safe and report back! See you fuckers out there!

Anybody have any recent pics that show conditions? If you're headed that way and have a spare sec could you snap a pic? Thanks

Though I can understand how you might get the impression that I am getting a cut I can assure you (and Rob will confirm) I am not. I am merely sharing the info here because I have seen what Rob's programming methodology has done for my climbing and feel that some of the other climbers here might also be interested in it. WRT to the questions I created those as examples of some of the material that will be covered at the seminar. Those aren’t my personal questions rather my best guess at some of the questions floating around here on cc. I agree to an extent that the above questions can be researched however most climbers that outline their daily workouts are also sponsored and/or have much much more time to devote to training than most of us here. I hope this post clears things up. John Frieh

And see a sick slideshow! http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08f/newswire-siguniang-ascent

Yes and yes. Having attended a few of these I would highly recommend the later but there are those among us who arent interested in xfit/hybrid fitness hence the option to just attend one. If it isnt obvious 500 is a screaming deal... similar seminar would cost you 1800 @ gym jones!

I suck for just getting to this... got busy at work yesterday afternoon Send me a PM and we can schedule something... Again: my apologies!

I only have an hour a day 3x a week to train… what is the best way to spend that hour? How should I split up the week? 2 runs and a rock gym session? All rock gym sessions? I can only afford a rock gym membership… what can/should I do on my own to train for alpine climbing that doesn’t require fancy equipment? Is an hour on a stair master 3x a week enough for Rainier next spring? Should I wear a backpack when I do it? Pullups: on a hang board? Kipping? Dead hang? On my ice tools? Weighted? Fast? Slow? How often? What is best for me? What is more important: grip/finger strength or pullup/power strength? How do I train/strengthen body tension? How much does stretching factor in? What is the right mix of training and "practice" - or skill/technique work in the rock gym? Stretching? What should I do? Does it help? How does a front squat help my climbing? Or a dead lift? What lifts will hurt/hinder my climbing? Can I get stronger without gaining weight? Can I get stronger and also lose weight? What should I eat in the hills? During the week? Post recovery? Single rope? Twins? Doubles? Tag line? Clothing? Day trip vs Overnight? I live 6 hours from reliable ice climbing… 12 hours most of the winter. What can I do to be ready to climb ice once it gets here instead of spending half my trips trying to get back to the level I was leading last winter? Cam or tricams? Pins? How many slings? Screamers? Vertical or horizontal? Mono? Dual? What do pro climbers do to train? I heard all Colin Haley does is run sprints up hills…? Answers: Join Ron Shaul of Mountain Athlete and Christian Santilices of Exum Mountain Guides for answers to these and any other questions you might have this Jan 24th and 25th in Portland Oregon. PM me if you have any questions. This seminar is a deal!

Yup!

I think DonnV is still out there climbing

New rules: No ice in bucket: bring rock gear Some ice: stubbies + rock gear All ice: 10s/13s/16s + rock gear Would be great if people post what they see/dont see/climb/etc each night

...A BIG CHANGE IN THE WEATHER COMING UP AT THE END OF THE WEEK... A STRONG COLD FRONT EXPECTED TO MOVE THROUGH FRIDAY AFTERNOON WILL USHER IN THE COLDEST AIR MASS SO FAR THIS SEASON...THEN A SECOND COLD FRONT...WITH ARCTIC ORIGINS...IS EXPECTED TO SPREAD EVEN COLDER AIR IN FROM THE NORTH LATE SUNDAY AND SUNDAY NIGHT. AT THIS TIME IT APPEARS TEMPERATURES MAY RIVAL THE COLD SNAP OF JANUARY 2004...WITH LOW TEMPERATURES IN THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY DOWN TO 15 TO 20 BY SUNDAY AND MONDAY NIGHTS...AND HIGHS STRUGGLING TO REACH NEAR FREEZING SUNDAY THROUGH TUESDAY. EVEN COLDER TEMPERATURES ARE POSSIBLE IN THE UPPER HOOD RIVER VALLEY AND COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE...WITH LOWS AS LOW AS 10 TO 25...AND DAYTIME HIGHS JUST 15 TO 25. THE COLD AIR MASS WILL ALSO BRING A CHANCE FOR LOW ELEVATION SNOW SHOWERS FRIDAY NIGHT THROUGH SUNDAY NIGHT. SNOW LEVELS...WHICH IS THE LEVEL AT WHICH STICKING SNOW BECOMES POSSIBLE...MAY DROP AS LOW AS 1000 FEET AS EARLY AS FRIDAY NIGHT...AND SHOULD BE DOWN TO THE VALLEY FLOORS BY LATE SUNDAY IN WHATEVER SHOWERS ARE AROUND. THE POSSIBILITY OF ANY SIGNIFICANT SNOW ONCE THE MAIN SHOT OF ARCTIC AIR REACHES OUR AREA IS UNCERTAIN AT THIS TIME AS IT IS DEPENDENT ON WHETHER ANY ORGANIZED SYSTEMS WILL SPREAD OVER THE AREA...BUT THE POSSIBILITY DOES EXIST.

Dave and I gave it a go a few winters ago but avy conditions ruled it out. I know of a few other attempts but I'm not one to out anyone. Lot of other ice in that valley! Beautiful line... nice work Rolf and Dan!

I can do tomorrow or Wednesday 6 pm -> ??? I just need to know what night is better for peeps.

Trip: Ice Bender Date: 12/8/2008 Summary: Day 0: PDX -> SEA -> BZN Day 1: G1 (many laps/20 m), Bingo Cave - P. Tapley open project (Steep) w/ Roger, Greg and Bryan Day 2: Avy Gulch full (Belayed 2 p only/250 m) with Roger Day 3: The Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker Pro Invitational Competition (9 hours/10 routes/13 p/3rd place!) with Bryan (Route list below) Day 4: Silken Falls (2 p/120 m), Dribbles (3 p/155 m) with Shannon Day 5: 1st p of Avy Gulch (1 p/35 m), The Western (1 p/50 m), Over Easy (1 p/40 m) with Lauren and Shannon Day 6: (yesterday!): BZN -> PDX Details: I was turning 30. I was going from a MOG to a COMOG (creepy old MOG) I needed a way to commiserate the passing of my twenties. Emails were sent... partners hassled... and 2 weeks before my 30th lap around the sun the planets aligned. "Sure you can have the week off" "Would you like a slot in the Ice Breaker?" "Do you still need a partner for Tuesday and Wednesday?" "Oh we can stay @ Jack's condo" :rawk: Day 1: Tuesday Started Tuesday @ G1 with Greg of Northern Lights, Bryan (powderhound), and Roger Strong. Following a few laps we sent Greg to work and Bryan to class (with a of course ) and Roger and I moved to the Bingo cage for some punishment. COMOG! Knees to elbows Day 2: Wednesday Rumor was the upper pillar of Avy gulch was nearly touching so Roger and I made the hike out and started soloing. We soloed up to the pillar... it was ~4-5 feet from touching. Dangler + upper pitch: Roger walked some M5/6ish to gain the pillar BIG baller: Somehow my MOGness didnt bring the pillar crashing down so I snuck up to Roger and we belayed 1 more pitch and then hiked to the top of the ridge. We left the car @ 9 am and were at the top of the ridge by 1ish... a great day in the canyon! Sidenote: You know you have a proper ropegun when your partner thought the snow wallowing was the crux and not the free hanging pillar Day 3: (Thursday) Ice Breaker! So the Ice Breaker... this was the second year JoJo organized both an invitational (Thursday) and open (Saturday) ice breaker comp. When he offered me a slot in the invitational I gladly accepted as it looked like a fun event even though I expected to finish dead last given the list of bad ass climbers in the comp. At the informational meeting the night before my luck delivered again and I was randomly assigned Bryan (powderhound) as my partner for the comp. Team Portland represent! The major change from last year's comp was one had to climb in 3 of the 4 major areas (Genesis to Mummy Area, Winter Dance to Dribbles Area, Twin Falls Area, and Unnamed Wall Area) in Hyalite canyon. Basically a ton of hiking and ice climbing The rest of the rules At 7 am Thursday morning 11 teams (7 men/3 women) consisting of one Hyalite local and non local per team literally ran out of the parking lot with the one goal of climbing as many pitches as possible in the canyon while still allowing enough time to get back to the parking lot by 4 pm. How fast were we running? Bryan and I reached the base of Dribbles in 40 minutes Bryan and I climbed in order: Dribbles Avy Gulch lower pitches The Western Over Easy Feeding the Cat Cave and Gully Crypt Orchid Mummy 1 Fat Chance Magically Delicious for a total of 10 routes/13 pitches and a 3rd place finish! I couldnt have hoped for a better partner... Bryan was an absolute monster and kept firing route after route even though he was up till 1 am the night before doing homework. Simply awesome... Ill climb with you anytime dude! As we were moving as fast as possible I only snapped a few pics the whole day. Out of the gate! Bryan early in the day: Day 4: Friday Shannon and Lauren rolled in Thursday night... Lauren spent her first day climbing ice in a chicks with picks session and Shannon and I did the hike out to Dribbles and Silken Falls to get away from the crowds and get Shannon some more multi pitch ice experience. Shannon following Silken: Dribbles: Day 5: Saturday For our last day we opted to head to the back of the canyon again to find Shannon some first ice leads! Shannon's 1st ice lead! Shannon's 2nd ice lead! Lauren's 2nd day of ice! Team Arcteryx enjoying a coffee break: Epilogue: So far 30 kicks ass. Maybe one of these days Ill start acting my age too MANY MANY THANKS to JoJo, Coop, Greg/NLs, Barrel and everyone else that puts together such a great event as well as everyone that I got to climb with and/or meet this week! Until next time Gear Notes: 2 bags @ 50 lbs each Approach Notes: Alaska Air

Great meeting you guys Friday! Sounds like you all had a great time! My partner in the ice breaker was Bryan Schmitz who posts here as powderhound! Team Portland and cc.com represent!

Welcome to the hood dude I nominate AlpineDave for the slide show

Thanks pink! Feel the STOKE! PM me if you're going be in town!

:rawk: How much for a cc.com thong? Stoke!