John Frieh

I just want to know if I can yell at Marie

Well Rolf did ropegun your butt up the NE ridge of Alberta so yeah... probably.

I prefer

1 pair of aztars 1 pair of quarks (thanks Chris!!!) 1 pair of ergos 1 pair of monsters (python print ) 1 grivel compact black (aka fisher price my first ice tool) 1 BD CFBP (is it yours?) 2 pair of sarkens (1 pair sidelock, 1 pair spirlock) 2 pair of darts (one with heel spurs, one w/out) 1 pair of BD raptors (mounted on Kayland Ice Comps) 1 pair of SMC hinged crampons If anyone wants to demo something get a hold of me

Next DT session: Wednesday Jan 4th 5 pm - ??? PM or call me (503.758.5772) if you are attending and if you need to borrow anything. Bring a headlamp and wear your crappy clothes... it's going to be muddy

Ivan: what if I was climbing ice with another girl? Is that a big deal? I was climbing ice with Fern and Kellie a few weeks ago... Has your wife started enforcing the "no girl rule?" Actually the force is quite strong... she used Jedi Mind Tricks on the locals... "You want to give us a ride on your snowmachines" "You want to share your cookies with me" and not to mention me... "You want to carry the ropes and rack" PS: I had an AWESOME time lcm! Thanks! PPS: If you are missing a BD CFBP let me know.

Care to elaborate? If someone yells at me why can't I yell at them? Perhaps we should move this to spray...

But Kurt currently only has one (right Kurt?)

I love in the intro his discussion on climbing in the winter... I don't have it in front of me but to paraphrase: "...smart climbers spend the winter in front of a roaring fire with their lover and a bottle of wine..." I need to reread that more often... or perhaps glue a laminated copy to my ice tools. Also he has an excellent discussion on what the infamous CAN 5.9 A2 rating is all about (not to be confused with the infamous Devil’s Club 5.9 A2 rating ).

Got my passes Bill! Let's go! Any peeps interested in DTing this week shoot me a pm... I am fairly open. PM or call me: 503.758.5772 Love that mud on the pons!

Looking for beta on ice or other climbing options close (2-3 hour drive) to Coeur d'Alene, ID that will likely be in for Jan 14th - 16th... the closer to Coeur d'Alene the better. As I will have a rental car am looking for something that has a dependable, easier approach if that option exists (or perhaps someone interested in climbing with 2 out of towners and is willing to drive ) Any guidebooks I should be looking at? Also any beta on local dining options, pubs, skiing, etc etc would greatly be appreciated.

Good chance to check out these: BD o1

Spotted in Winthrop, WA: Nice stripes BTW

REMOVE THE HELMETS!!! Marie: Does this mean if I yell at you SHOW ME YOUR TITS you'll oblige me? It's a two way street...

So at what point to tools become so fucking unbelievably specialized, funky, ugly, twisted and totally inpractical for anything but a very specific type of climbing that they become "aid" rather than tools? You mean like skis? Start your own thread.

1-3 pair of cloudveil ice floe gloves (depending on how wet it is and if you are just ice cragging or doing an alpine route ) + 1 pair of BD mercury mitts. I sized the mitts so that I can put them on over the cloudveil gloves at belays. A pair of approach gloves is also key... if you sweat like most people then whatever you wear on the approach is going to get soaked. Also a beater pair of car gloves are key for chaining up, digging out, etc etc so you don't trash your good stuff.

I thought of you first when I found it... I was like "I know someone that could use this." You can have it if no one claims it.

From montanaice.com the most recent update:

Foam is like super hero ice... if all ice in this world was like foam I could climb WI7... if only... Still you can feel how the boots are especially the heel lift issue. Hit some of the dt routes so you can see if the ankle accommodates your footwork. It is not uncommon for people to need a 1/2 size larger (EU units... not US units!) in La Sportiva... still try to insist on having someone experienced in boot fitting fit you... even if it means going to a different shop that doesn't specifically carry the boots you want at least you can get a solid idea on what size you need.

Found: 1 CFBP at WA pass. 200' west of 163 milepost. I'm guessing it was lost this year as it would have been likely found in the summer. Get a hold of me and I will gladly return it to you. Be prepared to provide a good physical description (if it's yours you will know what I am talking about). John 503.758.5772

I got the M11s in the yard sale here! Since then I got a pair of kayland ice comps special order through bentgate.net as no one carries Kayland (at least that I can find) Good luck finding someone in OR/WA that stocks them... if you do let me know! They run true to size... I am a 45 EU (or 11 US) in everyone minus la sportiva (45.5 EU). I hesitate to say "yes they are warm enough" as it isn't just the boot that dictates if your feet stay warm... your layering system, how good your circulation is, etc etc all factor in. With that said I climbed comfortable in Hyalite a few weeks ago in -15 F weather. IMO An inch of heel lift is okay though it is border line. How tight did you have the boots laced? Super snug... i.e. about to lead WI? Or loose i.e. about to do the approach? I have had the ice evo on before and if I remember correctly the rocker on the sole is super aggresive so it feels like your heel is moving a bunch but what is actually happening is your toes moving down. And if you stand on your toes forever they are going to slowly slip inside the boot... try to simulate real world conditions. If you are in the Seattle area buy the boots... take them to cascadecrags and climb some foam ice and see how you like them. If they pass the test take themt to a gym and walk 4 miles on a treadmill... if they do okay keep 'em... if not return them. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions!

I suspect you will be able to wear one or the other but not both. I have never been able to wear la sportiva... I have flat wide feet. I LOVE my M11s. But they also fit me How much heel lift have you been getting? Did you try alternate lacing styles? What brands/models did you get a good fit out of in the past? What do you hope to use these boots for?

Python print if you're wondering Maybe someone should start a "what's in your ice tool quiver?" thread.

Talk to Jerry Messinger; he has experience in both areas, as well as the gas drill (at least he used to). You got contact info Doc?

You live in PDX and and drink Peet's Stumptown