Blake

I'm glad he has that info in there. But like you said, it doesn't help locate the climbs, so if you really don't care about that info, just take it out of the book and recycle it or keep it at home. It's not Dallas' fault that the trail system at Erie isn't very distinct or friendly for first-time users. Erik, try this 3-pitch route next time you're there: P.1 zig-zag (Or frogs in space if you are tough) P.2 Undercover to the snag P.3 Springboard best route out there IMO.

yeah, we saw more kea birds down at timberline (keas are evil alpine parrots) Our route from the NW ridge onto the glacier wasn't "the ramp" we just descended/rapped some ledges before the ridge ended, in order to reach our cached gear before dark.

I'm going to be here until June, hope to keep on enjoying it!

Climb: Mt. Aspiring - New Zealand-SW Ridge Date of Climb: 3/25/2006 Trip Report: Last week I got lucky. I got lucky on the loan of a car, crampons, boots, gaitors, and glacier glasses all for free from friends. It was a good thing that I was able to secure all these loans, because for once the NZ weekend weather looked good for some alpine adventuring. A fellow American and CC.er named Graham and proposed Mt. Aspiring as a possible trip idea, so last Friday morning about 2AM saw Graham and myself rolling into a parking lot at the end of gravel road in Mount Aspiring National Park. The next morning we were awoken to the sound of angry cattle all around. New Zealanders, always on the lookout for the chance to multi-task, had transformed the parking lot into a part-time cattle ranch. After some early morning bovine taunting, we were on our way. We soon discovered that such newfangled ideas as ‘bridges’ and ‘switchbacks’ have not entered the NZ mainstream. Note the ominous clouds above our river crossing… more on these later. We climbed up from the valley floor, which was about 1,200’ up into these dense clouds, and finally hit snow at about 5,500’. Visibility was minimal, and I was fearing a weekend storm. As we traversed our first major snow slope I remarked “Hey Graham, is this a Glacier?” “Not According to the map.” “Pretty good-sized crevasse right there for a snow slope.” … at which point we tied a rope on. We set up our tent Friday night in a blustery white out, sleeping at 6,000’ on the Bonar Glacier. Although it towered over us, we had yet to see Aspiring. However, sometime in the middle of the night, things miraculously cleared up, and we agreed to a 3AM wakeup. Walking across the glacier in the dark, the peak’s SW ridge was both intimidating and inviting. This was going to be my first serious ice/steep snow route, and the freely borrowed crampons proved they were worth every cent I paid for them by frequently wiggling loose. The first part of the route consisted of mixed steep snow and rock, with solid water ice covering sections. Following this part, we climbed up a beautiful steep snow arête, with big exposure down the south face. The snow was very well bonded, and we found good places for some ice screws. The technical crux came in the final 1/3 of the climb, where Graham lead what he rated as WI3 R. As he passed through the steepest beginning section, and large chunks of ice flew by my head, he mentioned that he hoped to leave a little for me as well. However, when I began to follow and climb through the crux, my tools found more rock features than solid ice. Good thing for Portland dry-tooling experience! Soon all that remained was a steep snow slope, and we broke out of the icy gulley into the bright sun. By 2pm we were on the summit, with views of the blue Pacific, and much of the South Island. We were met on top by a couple of local climbers who had ascended the NW ridge. With two ropes, the four of us were able to down climb/rappel the NW ridge back to the glacier fairly smoothly. Plans were made for dinner in town the next night, and we parted ways, getting back to our tent about 7pm. The hike out yesterday morning went much more smoothly than had our fog-bound approach, and we were in town enjoying pizza at the pub by 6pm. Gear Notes: Ice tools/screws/small rock pro Approach Notes: ouch!

Wow, a thread that could be moved FROM spray INTO the Climbing forum!

They have no pennies in NZ and they are now phasing out the nickels as well. Guess i was thinking politician=one who achieves elected office, not someone who is a prominent worker for government change.

No. Susan B. Anthony and Benjamin Franklin. Probably others...

Don't forget daylight savings is coming soon, then maybe there'll be some light for post-work playtime.

This tree at Index, and the tree at Beacon have gotten argued over ridiculous amounts. Look at the bigger picture. It's like you can't see the forest for the trees.

only got out once, nothing really nice to show for it. I'm going back out into the countryside this weekend, rod will be along again. Spring temps and long days got you itchin to get some more time on the water Will?

Bill, where would #2 be found in between Hood and Beacon?

If flipping leas, use the rope to make a bunny ears figure 8, add an additional pieces on clove hitch if you must. If you aren't flipping leads, get a new climbing partner.

Eric and I decided that getting together people from the B-ham scene is like 'herding cats.' Great place to live, but you got to drive 45mins-2hrs to get to all the sweet climb/mountain areas. Therefore locals don't know each other and don't really get together anywhere that is Bham specific.

took me a minute to recognize the guy in the picture.

Climb: Wanaka - New Zealand- Date of Climb: 3/19/2006 Trip Report: Last weekend myself and a few buddies, including a Tacoma Mountain Rescue guy who posts on here and is studying at my university, headed out to central part of the South Island for some cragging and to get info on alpine conditions for upclimbing climbs. Most of the area climbing is single-pitch sport, but a few really quality crack climbs can be found as well. The area around Queenstown and Wanaka is a lot like central Oregon. Dry hills leading up to large peaks, and all kinds of outdoor activities (ski/hike/climb/bike/flyfish) within a short drive of town. We managed to get in about 22 or 23 routes in a day + a morning of climbing before our hands were raw and our arms started to fail us. I've been introducing some friends to climbing, but forgot the course on 'rope management.' And choice free camping! Gear Notes: standard rack. Sharp stick to keep angry sheep and Keas at bay. Approach Notes: watch out for the electric fences!

Even if you can't ski or board, I think a snow-covered St. Helens is a nicer trip than a dusty and scree-covered one.

Mother's Day dress skiing!

Josh, knowing the cc.com crowd, there'd be about 6 people left!

I was really just hoping for the kiwi convesion of 5.9+ A2- because that's pretty much been the rating of every route i've seen down here.

wasn't angel crack originally a 5.7? Isn't there some famous photo of Fred climbing it in boots?

Drew, thanks for clearing things all up.

already bought all three ropes, crampons, and axe....

maybe it's the lembas bread? I did find this one little ring in my cracker jack box on the flight over. It's precious.....

This is from the AAC NZ is really nice, going to try Mt. Aspiring soon (I hope) I've put a few pics up in the 'everywhere else' forum. I honestly haven't lead enough 5.10 routes in the states to know how accurate teh grades are, but I'm leading 20 Aussie. Cheers!

I'm not trying to say that grades are the important part about climbing, but why is there so much dispute in determining what Aussie/NZ grade = what North American grade = European, etc. I guess its all subjective and whatnot, but for example I've seen charts listing Aussie '20' as everything from 5.10b to 5.11a. seems kinda strange... http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/GradeConversion.htm http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rankingguide.php http://www.catsclimbingshop.com/ctable.html