Blake

To clarify the routefinding confusion, Burgundy and Paisano beta overload can be found here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=482449

Getting to Holden from Lucerne is bus-schedule dependent, which is boat-schedule dependent, so flying from Seattle might not get you there any sooner than driving to Chelan/Field's point and catching the boat. Bring your skis Wayne! I bet that the trail to Holden Lake will still be significantly snowy.

I'm heading from Bellingham to Index on Sunday for the day, and picking up a partner in Mt. Vernon on the way. If anyone else from b'Ham/Skagit is going, I'd love to carpool!

I thought both of these Darrinton routes (and the amazing setting amid waterfalls at the end of Squire Creek Valley) were outstanding. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/696594/fpart/1

Daisy chain it + Washing machine + Woolite will help somewhat, but its mostly just coconut oil.

Hey Jens, I have a friend who uses one of these with a gri-gri or when aid soloing. Works well, the plastic clip is light, and it should solve your problem! DMM "Belay Master"

Yes. send a PM to "DCramer" on this site to get word on finding a copy. It should keep you busy.

That's what happens when you miss the obvious descent gully man... you end up in the wrong hemisphere and have to fight off parrots and aggressive penguins.

At one point there was a site available that showed precip amounts of the last 24-48hrs or something like that in Index. I think this site was associated with rental cabins in teh valley. I have been unable to locate it. However, last week I found some kind of offical precip record for Goldbar (can't remember which agency sponsored and ran the site) and now I can't find that site either. Anyone have links?

Looking for a ~1 pound bag. Must be down. Plan on using it with a belay jacket in the summer. Not interested in anything much more than 1 pound. Looks like either the Montbell UL Alpine Down Hugger #5 Western Mountaineering HiLite or Feathered Friends Vireo I think they are all probably top-notch, but couldn't find any reviews or experience with the first one. I'd appreciate hearing from users of these (or comparable) bags.

The First Ascent of Dome Peak was via Stehekin... can't be that bad right?

If you must have boots, throw some aluminum 'pons onto these things, and you'll be set for the walking, the scrambling, the snow-descending, and you wont have to carry other shoes along. I think it's cheaper lighter and faster than the other suggestions.

Nice work, those gendarme pitches look cold. Clearly someone was inspired by ewe.

Cool, but... what about N ridge of Stuart? I'm getting lighter boots now for a specific approach, but fully intend to do more technical routes where I'd like to save weight and need rock shoes for the technical part. Perhaps you are considering bringing/buying too much gear for these routes? I think the best idea is to use tennis shoes or trail runner type shoes for W. Ridge of Stuart. The approach (mostly on a trail), the climb is a few steppy pitches of mid-fifth, and the descent down the dusty trail of the cascadian couloir. This aspect of the mtn bakes in the sun all day and shouldn't hold unavoidable patches of significantly steep snow very late in the season. What reason would there be for any other kinda of extra/heavier footwear? I must be the only climber in the world who appreciated the cascadian couloir. Think about it... you can descend from a 9,000' mountain basically right down to a trail without any rappels, loose scrambling, bushwhacking, glaciers, streas etc... it's amazing! From the summit you can essentialy walk down a long skinny sand dune for an hour or two, and you are off "the mountain" and a few trail miles from your car. For the N. Ridge, most people take rock shoes as there are several 5.9 pitches. However, getting to and from the route again is easily done in tennis shoes and this will make your pack lighter and hence the climbing MUCH more fun than hauling boots along on your back. If climbing the North Ridge of Stuart from mid-summer onward, there is no need for snow and ice gear of any type, and you wont even have to set foot on snow. Although if you are planning on descending one of the north side glaciers, plan accordingly.

I had these ropes and used them for a long time on lots of long routes. They held up great, took falls like a champ, etc. I loved how durable they were and that they were officially certified for use as twins AND half ropes. (although I'd guess you can get away with using most setups like this). They tended to get kinked up a fair amount, but i think that is just a general issue with skinny cords.

If you apply for this credit card (free) and make $250 worth of purchases with it, they will give you 25,000 United Airlines miles. It helps to have a free united mileage account first, before applying. If you choose to keep the card for over one year, they will start to charge a $60 annual fee renewal fee. 25,000 miles should be enough to fly to lots of great climbing destinations for free. http://www.firstusa.com/cgi-bin/webcgi/webserve.cgi?partner_dir_name=united_signature_25k_afw&page=cont&mkid=6VMT

Sorry Blake didn't see you post this. Q? Why do you tie the knot in the skinny rope, instead of the fat rope just above the knot? Hey Michael, I don't think it matters if you tie the loop knot in the fat or skinny rope, as long as the knot is near where the ropes connect and doesn't jam in the anchors. Your method (having the loop knot in the fat rope, between the connection and the anchors) might be better. Another idea is to leave one of the tails extra long on your rope-connecting knot, tie a loop in this tail, and clip your 'biner through there. Either way you can be safe if the tag line is cut, or you can rap on the fatty single and unfurl your tag line as you descend. After the first climber raps, the second climber can situate the knot to prevent any jamming, and have the climber down below hold the rope in place to keep things clean. This is the best thread in a while, because it's actually a serious discussion about climbing that doesn't involve stupid arguments and insults. Proving that there can be some redeeming value in cc.com! We deserve a collective pat on the back or group hug.

Many (probably most of the good) pictures will have been taken by partners. However, the cutoff forehead and tilted horizon on the photo above marks it a dead giveaway for a "Blake Orginal."

I think if at all capable it's best to do this route without a bivy. Apart from 4 or 5 short pitches, there is nothing more than 4th and low 5th class on stellar rock.

you need either a passport, or else an ORIGINAL birth certificate and a driver's license. Make sure the vehicle you are driving belongs to you, has insurance and registration. I am looking for a ride up to Squamish late tonight or tomorrow morning. I am in Bellingham, WA. Obviously willing to share gas money. I probably wont need a ride back. let me know if you are interested. BlakeHerrington " @ " gmail.com

DO NOT follow the written description for Cruel Shoes in the McLane guide. Upon reaching the RF corner on P1 climb UP the corner, not down and right as described. 5.11d runout slab is hard. Rad, I think there is a bolt on the sword, shortly after the crux and you clipped it. I think it's part of the belay on the Free Grand, at a no-hands rest stance. The Flats and Sail Flake were the best pitches because belays were shaded! Now for a quiz... what is wrong with this second picture? Answer: he removed his lower piece of gear before falling.

you had the right number, squamish is a vortex blissfully free of cel-coverage. Sorry again... will plan better next time.

Yes. And in past years you've been allowed to climb above Bellygood (IE finish up Black Dyke or Millenium Falcon).

http://www.apa.org/monitor/2008/05/marriage.html#chart

I've had my 8'x8' tyvek sheet on almost every alpine climb i have done. It works as a ground cloth, bivy bag, rope tarp, gear-sorting platform, etc etc. I've spent a lot of nights (even rainy ones) warm and dry with a tyvek and sleeping bag combo. Of course, the real goal here is to acquire the coveted DuPont sponsorship than John Frieh was awarded after "forgetting" his sleeping bag and having to sleep in a tyvek cocoon on one of our trips to the Gunsight Range.