OlympicMtnBoy

I borrowed mountainmatts #2 link cam when we were up on Green Dragon. I found it surprisingly useful as a large offset on some of the big flaring cracks near the top. You can place em in a flare and have decent contact on both sides. It looks a little funky but held my bouncing well. It worked fine for normal placements too but I didn't see myself carrying one that often. It probably has a place, seemed solid anyways.

Otto, No disagreements there. I only hooked twice and both could have been easily avoided. I just felt it was faster and safer to hook. One spot was just before the bolt ladder on P4 at that flake labeled expando on some topo or another. I didn't like the looks of it much so I highstepped (or whatever it's called with Russian Aiders on) on a good cam at right before the flake and was able to get a good hook on the top of the flake. There were other placements on the side of the flake that I'm sure would work fine, I just liked the hook option better. The second spot was a gap on the bolt ladder right before the belay. It looked like a 5.7? free move but I was lazy and the hardest part would have been getting my daisy off the bolt I was standing on. The hook was faster. Both moves were also protected by bolts so it would be a great spot for beginning hookers to try some easy moves too. It was a fun route though, some fun placements, but nothing too scary or tricky. Thanks to Matt for a good day out, next time I take the bosuns chair though, my sides are still sore. For the record, we didn't really watch sunset from the top, we skipped the 6th pitch (4th class dirty gully). I did that a couple years ago from Town Crier and it wasn't fun enough to bother with and it was getting dark. You can rap the route with two ropes in 3 raps from the very top (or from the top of P5) to top of P4, to top of P2, to the ground.

Sounds like Timmy O'Neil in Jackass 3, I hear they did the "Nalgene bottle as pro" test too. Check out the thread on rc.com.

Nice job guys, I love reading about the quasi-obscure Olympics stuff since it doesn't show up anywhere else! Can we have a NW Ski journal for all the damn ski descents though, so I don't have to read them or think about it as I plod down things by foot?

Thanks Kevbone and Jason, I share responsibility since I couldn't get it out and Jason was cool enough to give me a few bucks. But hey, what have I got to lose. Actually I'm more concerned about the #1 anyways. In my book, lost gear deserves being returned if possible, booty gear is booty, but sometimes it gets given back and that's cool too. I've done both. But it's cc.com, so flame away. ;-)

Ok, I hate to post here, but somewhere in the course of the past two months my #1 old style camalot with a red kong wiregate biner was misplaced. I've been climbing with other folks on their racks so i didn't notice it till now. Last seen on the N. Ridge of Stuart or on the Temple (same trip). Really I'm puzzled as to where it went as I *never* misplace gear, could have sworn it was on the cam sling in my closet till I looked this weekend. Also lost (stuck=booty!) an Extreme 4CU on that wierd 5.6 on Great Northern Slab at Index, the one up the ramp higher than the one everyone climbs. You wouldn't want it anyways, just look at the striped pink neon sling, it's probably older than you. I know, finders keepers, especially on the stuck one, but if you don't need it I have beer and good karma if you get it back to me.

I haven't had any experience with the C4 #5, but the old ones were definately less stable on the big end than the WC tech friends. I had the fortunate/unfortunate time of aiding up an overhanging squeeze chimney/offwidth in Kyrgyzstan with only a BD#5 and WC #6 to leap frog. Given, the WC #6 was a bit bigger, but it was also way more secure when pulling sideways as I tried to slither up the wider side of the chimney with the cam placed in the back. I still like my camalots in the smaller sizes though, and like I said, that was pre-C4.

Not sure what the weather will be like, but I'd like to get out on rock to do something. Might be open to other locations if I don't have to do all the driving (leaving from Seattle). Have plenty of gear, lead 5.10-, would love to follow harder stuff, want to get some good pitches in and not waste too much time dinkin around. PM me or call 360-301-2585. :-) - Stewart

Yeah, I think you're right John, moving off the ridge would make it harder in spots, it just hard to tell where the good spots might be and where the choss is. My route finding radar just kept me on the crest (pro is more obvious there as well). I'd probably call the route we took 5.6, but I have trouble nitpicking like that, it was pretty much all 5.easy-fun. I took my climbing shoes and used them to the top of the shield wall, but next time I'd just use my hiking boots/approach shoes. I didn't think we were moving particularly fast, but it did help that SJW had the approach down. I thought the new description was good though and the path was super obvious up to the first gendarmes. It would obviously take longer if you belayed every pitch or weren't pretty comfortable climbing that level. Finding pro and loose rock could sketch out a new 5.7 leader. I'm sure it's seeing a lot more traffic since the new guide, but it is a fun route. :-)

Climb: Mt. Washington-Southeast Ridge (III, 5.7) Date of Climb: 9/10/2006 Trip Report: Sjwages and I both wanted to get out into the Olympics for some fun rock before the weather went away for the season, so off I was on the 5 AM ferry from Seattle. He met me at the dock and we drove up towards Lake Cushman and the start of the approach. The trail up there was pretty well defined until you reach the steep gendarmes in the description where the traveled route (and flagging) heads left (S). Fortunately SJW had figured that out the last time, before he retreated due to a cut rope, so we headed right and were shortly in the bowl and then at the base of the route. We pitched out the first three pitches, the first one was 5.6 past two bolts and a couple of gear placements to a bolted belay. The next one headed up either loose 3rd and 4th or easy 5th on the rock so I headed up there and avoided sending anything onto our rope. I topped out on a flattish bench on the ridge. SJW headed up again, up another 5th class headwall to a belay that was almost on an identical bench. From there I lead out on a long simulclimbing block to the base of the Parapet at the top of the Shield Wall. The guide mentions a 5.7 crack, but I didn't encounter anything like that, staying on the ridge crest the whole way (it's a ridge route after all). From there a really short 5.3 chimney led to the top of the formation and a walk to the first rappel. It was supposedly 2nd class from there, but it seemed like mid-5th to get back on the ridge from the notch. From there it was more walking to the second rappel. One more bit of chossy 5th led up to a flatter section. From here is was walking and scrambling, then one more short easy-5th class bit to join the standard route and the scramble up to the summit. Here's a shot of the final part of the ridge from the summit: And the summit register: Friendly snaffles at the top: And one more shot of the top of the ridge: It took us just over 6 hours to the top from the car, with about an hour on the approach, 5 hours on the route, and a short break at the base. It was actually a super fun climb for rock in the Olympics with decent protection through most of it (you just have to look a bit harder). I'd say it was on par with the W. Arete of Constance. It was way more fun than the standard route since there is basically NO SCREE anywhere except that bit on the summit block. We made it back down in an hour and a half to cold beer in the creek. Thanks Jacob for a fun climb! Oh and all the pics are sjwages, the full size ones can be found in his gallery. I might get mine up some day if I ever develop the film (somebody give me a digicam for x-mas). Gear Notes: Blue alien through purple WC tech friend and a set of nuts. Smaller gear was more useful, plus some slings for horns n' stuff. Approach Notes: Follow the dscription in the latest Olympics guide book, don't follow the flagging after you hit the first gendarmes on the ridge.

Bishop's Terrace is an awesome climb, but I'd still call it 5.8. I do remember up at the top it was pretty much a "you must jam" spot. We don't really have that many of those in the NW on easier climbs, there is usually a face hold or something you can get to and get away with sloppy jamming technique, so it'd seem harder if you've been doing that for a while and get used to it. I think the ratings down there were pretty on though, although e-38 and vantage have a lot of notoriously soft graded stuff.

I managed to get through to them last year to get a jacket replaced, but they still had a website then. It did take like 6 mo to get anything done, and I had to go through Pacific Trail. I think they got bought up by Columbia or something now. You might try working that angle. Good luck though.

Sounds like a ton o fun with some good high camps. Way to get some nice alpine mileage in! How was the way down from D-tail to Stuart via the Arg-C-chuck col? I was thinking about coming up that way from Stuart to get to the Enchantments last time I was there, ended up heading back to the trail and assguard though.

PM sent on hooks, beaks, and any AL offsets if they exist.

I need to get out on something before the alpine season totally ends. I know Saturday looks crappy, but Sunday could be good. Anybody up for the SE Ridge of Mt. Washington or heading up to something on Washington Pass. I'm open to most any suggestion up to 5.9+ (or you lead the hard bits) and I'd like to climb reasonably fast. I'm free both days (and maybe monday) but can do just one day too. I'm driving from Seattle too if that matters. PM me here or call, 360-301-2585. - OMB (Stewart)

Here's one from near Mt. Cruiser a few years ago: And here it is landed:

Hey Crackers, post up some prototype pics so we can drool and comment or poke fun at them. Also did you ever get that upgrade kit together for the worksacks? I really need a webbing hipbelt I can wear my harness with. I made one that worked but I lost part of the buckle on the top of Mt. Stuart.

Yeah, I'd like to see em too!

Wow, the new "Lil Monster" looks like a Russian Ice Fifi on steroids.

Just browsing through the good book and it caught my eye. Has anyone climbed it, or got a pic of it they can post up? I'm intrigued by the 5th class route mentioned in the new edition. :-)

Climb: Mt. Stuart-North Ridge Date of Climb: 7/23/2006 Trip Report: After my planned partner bailed (having already bought plane tickets from Pittsburgh) I posted up here for a partner. Vince was the first to respond and sounded like a decent guy so we made some plans. He had climbed the North Ridge twice, roughly twenty years ago, but had never done the gendarme finish. I had a 5 day permit so we planned to approach via Mountaineers Creek, descend the Sherpa, and then hike up to Colchuck and over Aasgard Pass to do something else in the Enchantments for the second have of the trip. We met up in Leavenworth and did the hike and 'schwack in Mountaineers Creek on Saturday. It was way easier than the first time I did it since we found the trail instead of following cairns through the boulders (as soon as you hit the boulder field head to the creek, the trail is right next to the creek and WAY faster). We got up at 4:15 intending to get up the ridge in a day but packing an extra jacket just in case (super warm weather). The approach from that side took a couple hours and involved a couple interesting moves through the Stuart Glacier ice fall with my aluminum axe and crampons, but wasn't bad. We made decent time with a fair bit of simulclimbing up to the gendarme, maybe 4 hours for 11 pitches. My partner was pretty beat at that point, but I was ok to lead the rest and we were still ok for time so we kept going. The two 5.9 gendarme pitches were fun, nothing I felt sketched on at all. The offwidth was barely that and had plenty of options, plus a fixed #4 camalot to supplement my #11 hex and #3 camalot (although I would have been fine without fixed gear). My partner pulled on gear and hung a bit but made it up fine without having to pull out the prussiks. We hauled the packs for those two pitches too. From there is was mostly easy blocky stuff except for one more 5.9 bit which I did with my pack on. We moved pretty slow though and got slightly off route on the last pitch where I led some dirty 5.8 stuff on the side of the ridge instead of sticking to the crest as we should have. We got the summit at 6 PM with 10 hours on the route. We figured with 3.5 hours of light left we'd be fine to get down but my planned descent of the Sherpa, but it wasn't a nice as I hoped. It was a lot more melted out then when I did it previously and my partner was moving really slow on the 40 degree downclimbing to the bergschrund. I'd rather he move slow and safe than fall on the way down, so I put on my patient hat. We hit the bergschrund at sunset and ate the last daylight belaying across the sketchy remnants of the snow bridge and then headed to the toe of the glacier. We ran out of light and had some routefinding errors which led to two raps and a hell of a lot of scree and boulder downclimbing. We made it back to camp exhausted but safe at 12:15 AM. Oh well, we still did it in a day. I'd like to go back in and do the "complete" ridge some time, maybe with a little faster partner. We tried to sleep in that morning, but the hot sun got us up at 7:30 so we lounged around camp a bit and then left to 'schwack out at 10. That went pretty easily and then we headed up to Colchuck for a nice swim. See part 2 for the TR from Temple Ridge. Gear Notes: Aluminum crampons and ice axe, one set of nuts, 6 cams, 4 large hexes. Approach Notes: It's still a bit of a 'schwack. Bugs were bad under Stuart.

I found a digital camera and case on Mt. Stuart. Looks like it was lost on 7/20 from the date on the last pic. Describe the camera and the route you climbed and I'll get it back to you. :-) - OMB

Hmm, thanks Ivan, maybe if you let me know which question you're answering and how you know it might be more helpful. Anyone else been in there in the last week? It's gonna be a 5 day trip and I'd rather not have to carry more stuff than I need to, but I'll probably be slow and wise instead of fast and light and take some 'pons.

Anybody been in there this week with the hot weather? Was thinking of the North Ridge on Stuart and descending the Sherpa to get back to camp and gear for the second half of my trip. I'll be leaving Sat morning. Is the Sherpa still passable? Will I need to rap over the 'schrund now? Crampons needed?

Looks like I found a partner for this one. Thanks for the replies. :-) - OMB