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Posts
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Everything posted by olyclimber
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those are my goats. you're getting them.
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I've been just as scared of falling on low angle slab as vertical or overhanging. in fact, i think more so. i mean all three could be fatal, the last two just get it over quicker.
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Hi and welcome Kiira! Did you have something in mind immediately? Baker, Adams, Rainier? Someone tie in with her and help her get ready for whatever!
- 2 replies
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- alpine climbing
- mountaineering
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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does anyone know when the last time Dru actually said or shared something constructive on here?
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no topo but here is a description: Flyboys 18 Pitch 5.9+Parking is at the pull off for the swimming hole and parking for Prime Rib and Restless Natives. Walk 200 feet back down the road to the east, the trail will be visible on the opposite side of the road. Follow the trail up into the woods. Continue on the trail through the boulder field until you come to a Y in the trail. To the right takes you to Restless Natives and to the left will take you to Flyboys. Follow the trail to the gully where cairns take you up the gully and exit right at the largest cairn .The start of the climb is next to the tall dead tree. The hike should take about 30 minutes. The route is designed both as a walk off or a separate rap that parallels the climb. Rappel stations are visible either on the way up or when rappelling down. Belay stations have 3 bolts at the top of all pitches. Rappel stations have three bolts and two chains. Do not confuse the two. If you are climbing the route a 60 meter rope and 16 draws will suffice. At the top of the route follow the cairns to the top of the trail where it joins the walk off trail of Prime Rib. It is about 20 to 30 minutes back to the road. If you intend to rap the route a 60 meter rope with knots in the ends will deliver you to back down to the base of the route. BE ADVISED that all 60 meter raps are rope stretchers. A 70 meter rope is advisable for safer rappels. Do not take this climb lightly. This is an alpine sport route. Although all pitches are bolted this is a long and challenging route. Enjoy and please be safe!1) 5.9 9 bolts From the large snag route starts 40 feet to the right in a right facing corner. Thin face crux up high. 2) 5.6 8 bolts Easy ramp to 15 foot block, mantle onto slab and continue to chains 3) 5.8 10 bolts Steep face to staircase leading to exposed belay. 4) 5.9 11 bolts Traverse left into intricate face moves followed by sustained face climbing. 5) 5.6 5 bolts When second arrives move belay 4 feet towards gully. Extend 3rd bolt with runner to avoid rope drag. Continue past rappel anchor to base of pitch 66) 5.8+ 9 bolts Tricky bulge leads to excellent arête climbing. Walk 40 meters south to base of wall to start next pitch 7) 5.9+ 8 bolts Stemming corner leads to steep and wild face moves into crack. 8) 5.8+ 16 bolts Sustained enjoyable climbing leads to large ledge with cairn and 50 meter walk to south to start next pitch. 9) 5.9 15 bolts Perfect pocket pitch. Scramble up and to the right of flag tree for next pitch. 10) 5.9+ 10 bolts Over hanging jugs in broken flakes leads to expose belay. 11) 5.7 14 bolts Diagonal face leads to clean slab. Walk past trees to south 50 yards to start of pitch 12. 12) 5.7 9 bolts Sustained moderate climbing through corners and overlaps.13) 5.8 14 bolts Continue climbing through corners and overlaps. 14) 5.9+ 9 bolts Stay left on arête to short face followed by traversing flake into squeeze chimney. 15) 5.4 6 bolts Follow bolts through easy slab trending left to stance above gully. 16) 5.8 7 bolts Step across abyss to exposed arête and jug ladder. Scramble 3rd class past lone pine tree to start of 17. 17) 5.7 10 bolts Boulder start leads to step face trending right.18) 5.9+ 10 bolts 3 consecutive 5.9+ bouldery problems lead to exposed finish.
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Retreat with no pro to leave: https://gripped.com/video/watch-auers-scary-and-cringeworthy-rappel/
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I don't see anything in the Wenatchee World. Marking this as "odd" for now...hopefully no bad news to come.
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The fool is likely some meth'ed out dumbass. I'm going to move this to lost and found tomorrow. Sorry you got your stuff stolen. That f@#$#@$en sucks.
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dang when the time is right we need to do another get together. and not in the city. some place where we can get our fingernails dirty.
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Oh you’re talking about skull hallow! Lol. Too many good times.
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@layton please do tell the story in detail. But leave out the parts where I’m involved. I remember girls rolling around in the dirt, someone fell off a bridge, and some degree bashfulness the next morning, but I honestly can’t remember it all too well for some reason.
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event Colorado: Silverton Split Festival
olyclimber posted an event in PNW Climbing/Skiing Event Calendar
untilRide new lines, make new friends, learn new backcountry skills, and demo the latest splitboard gear at this weekend-long event! Dinner and beer are provided Friday and Saturday nights, as well as nightly educational presentations, and the gear raffle to end all raffles! Silverton Splitfest is a self-guided event with a limited number of attendees. More details coming soon, but in the meantime save the date! https://localfreshies.com/5-splitboard-festivals-splitfests-you-should-check-out/ -
Trying to understand what you are saying here....post a screen shot of what you mean! It’s gotta do that
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get an electric jacket
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hahaha..i'm very familiar! it is a good song.
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https://youtu.be/YFOpifdJXcs
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[TR] Coleman Pinnacle - West Ridge 02/10/2018
olyclimber replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
If you wanted to, you could be doing this for a living I'm pretty sure. Probably doesn't pay near your day job to be an outdoor photographer though. -
@Hans Travis i feel you on the orange color....that was a @jon executive design call, and I've never had the energy to say anything because we have much more pressing deck chairs to rearrange on this ship
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This place can do the job so much better than IG or Facebook, but obviously people have to use cc.com for it to work all we can do it try continue to try to make it better and better and build up some momentum. we are seeing a significant uptick in registrations in a time where in the yearly cycle that usually dead, so things are looking up! Quality TRs (even FA reports) continue to come in, so its not like this place is dead...it just has a slower pulse than it did. @Hans Travis would love to hear from you as to what types of things you would find valuable and make you come back to this here snake pit. We would like to make those things better so we can make a compelling to use the site and share info. it isn't about really competing with social media, but being a "better mousetrap" for sharing conditions, stories, knowledge, selling gear, meeting climbing partners, and anything else you all find valuable. if we can make the site better in that regard, we are all ears. @jon is getting close to put in a feature that you'll all be very happy about.
