Rad

Cool. Thanks for the info. It's been a few years, but I seem to remember the top of that dihedral being 5.7 or 5.8ish and the pitches below it being 5.easy. What fun to launch up onto a big face and encounter lots of options of moderate ways to go, most of them unexplored. Post pics of that arete sometime if you think it's worth repeating.

Right of EB is a 10d that is short but fun. Just right of that is an 11d that is short with a bouldery thin crux. I think the 7/8 you're mentioning is just a bit right of the 11d. This joins the ramp of the 10c. Then down the hill a bit is the 10c (more like 10a), which trends left on a ramp before jogging back right and up to the anchors. There is an excellent 11c that starts at the same spot as the 10c but goes straight up into the hanging corner and then up overhanging jugs. The 10c and 11c share the same anchor so you can toprope the 11c after climbing the 10c, though there is a bit of ropedrag. Right of that is a relatively new line that is 11a/b. It's short but high quality (thanks Jens!). The 10a/10d two pitch line starts quite a bit down and right at the bottom of the formation. It looks OK (I haven't done it yet) but rarely gets climbed. So the photo you linked is out of date and has several errors. Not sure whether Garth is doing any more updates to the website or book. Has anyone heard form him in recent years?

Thanks. So how hard were these 4 pitches you did? Were they good? The last time out we were near the diamond feature, which is still right of your line. The slings were not ours as we walked off the top.

Nice. Way to pull through it. We had a long day out there a few weeks ago on a line to the right of where you were. Will post a TR at some point. Did you get any pics of your variation?

If you'd set the Southern Pickets traverse as your goal you'd be elated, but setting the full S and N traverse as your goal you felt you fell short. In the end, you did what you did, nothing more and nothing less. Congrats on an amazing adventure.

Trip: Mount McGregor - West Ridge Date: 8/26/2011 Trip Report: Rainier, Hood, and Fuji are iconic peaks that loom on the horizon of major cities. Each provides a powerful metaphor for a monumental challenge, often unrelated to climbing. Climbers are drawn to these peaks in droves for the same reason Mallory was drawn to Everest: "Because it’s there”. For those who make it to the top, success is particularly sweet because afterward a mere glimpse of the peak can transport them back to past adventures, partnerships, and dreams fulfilled. For others, the peak is a constant reminder of an unfulfilled promise, a humiliating failure, or a litany of half-baked excuses stacked like unwashed dishes in the sink. My wife grew up in the shadow of Mount Rainier. We climbed it together via the Emmons Glacier in 2003. The following month we got married in Stehekin, a tiny town at the head of Lake Chelan that’s only accessible by ferry, seaplane, or rugged wilderness trails. We visit Stehekin every year, and though our adventures have evolved as Ben, Anna, and Noah and other friends and family have joined us, one thing has remained unchanged: Mount McGregor. As Mount Rainier towers over the Puget Sound, so Mount McGregor towers over Stehekin. Its West Ridge and rocky summit are always visible from the upper reaches of Lake Chelan and the Stehekin valley. We’ve been staring at McGregor for the past eight years as we’ve biked, hiked, kayaked, swam, and explored different parts of the Stehekin valley. It was time to change that, to try to turn a daydream into action. We planned to climb McGregor during our summer trip to Stehekin. The climb involves 16 miles and 6400 feet elevation gain and loss from the trailhead to the 8136-foot summit, and back again. A good trail leads to Heaton Camp at 7000 feet. Above that lies 1000 feet of snow and third class rock. The mileage and elevation would be similar to our 2002 one-day ascent of Mount Constance, the highest peak you see on the Olympic skyline when looking West from our home in Seattle. We tested our fitness on Mailbox Peak a week before our trip to Stehekin. All systems go. The National Park trail report in Stehekin mentioned “treacherous hard snow” above Heaton Camp. I brought two ice axes, a skinny rope, a single harness, and a few runners for technical challenges the mountain might throw at us, but ice could be a show-stopper as we didn’t have sturdy boots or crampons. Hoping to find a rock route that would allow us to avoid the hard snow, I pored over photos of McGregor and tried to guess where the “treacherous” snow might lie. But descriptions were vague and it was unclear where the route went. We would just have to figure it out when we got there. After three wonderful days in Stehekin, we were ready. We quietly slipped out of our cabin at 5:30am to hit the trail in the cool morning hours, leaving friends and family behind to watch over our kids during the day. The miles slipped by easily as we marched up the trail. Just under 7000 feet, we paused at a basin that held the dreaded snowfield. Sure enough, the snow was rock hard. We easily skirted around it and scrambled up toward a ridge that should lead to the summit. The steep slope of pebbles and hard dirt had few stable footholds, but it wasn’t dangerous. Just below the ridgecrest, I paused to take a photo of Beth… And that’s where I saw that we were off track. WAY off track. In my haste, I’d led us up the wrong ridge. The true summit is marked by a tall radio repeater antenna, and it was a long way from where we stood. Linking our ridge to the summit would probably involve several thousand feet of towers with questionable rock. So, we boot skied down the scree and re-joined the trail to Heaton Camp and the proper route to the summit. On the plus side, our detour gave me a good view of the real “treacherous” snowfield (lower left in the photo above), and I spied a direct line on solid-looking rock that would bypass it and lead us directly to the summit. We re-joined the trail to the proper snowfield, drank from a small stream, and found an easy way past the first cliff. Mountain flowers and lichen peppered the rocky upper slopes of the mountain. We ascended third class rock to a shoulder that would bring us over to a gully that should lead straight to the summit. There we found the mental crux of the day: a traverse on down-sloping sandy ledges with loose handholds. I offered Beth a belay, but she crossed before I could toss the end of the rope down to her. We then pranced up solid rock directly to the summit. The sun was warm and the air was perfectly still. We soaked in the views and gorged on delicious treats before heading down. Prominent peaks provide fresh perspectives on familiar landmarks. The descent of the upper mountain went quickly. the miles ticked by easily, and we soon found ourselves back in the forest with a view of Glacier Peak. And one of Dome Peak. Other than a young buck we encountered on our descent, We had the entire mountain to ourselves. Coon Lake is picturesque, but it is a muddy pond best left to bass and beavers. We hit the bakery, plunged in the lake, and enjoyed two more wonderful days with friends and family. When we return to Stehekin next summer we’ll look up at Mount McGregor and remember a perfect day together on a beautiful peak. Maybe someday we’ll take the kids up there with us. Gear Notes: None needed. Approach Notes: Ferry to Stehekin. Bike, shuttle, or car to High Bridge.

I look forward to seeing it and hope that keeping the tree healthy is your top priority.

But Matt, the suspension bridges you encounter hiking usually are anchored in concrete pilings in the ground, not in trees. Maybe some rain forest canopy camps can provide you with some models.

get a job and get some wheels. most things you'll want to do, and there are lots of options, involve driving. If all else fails, move back to CA!

That's not even a real rock. Check out the tiny flake feature photoshopped 8 times in the image. Regardless, I have seen good bolts and questionable bolts at a variety of crags. People need to look carefully and decide what can be trusted and what cannot. Matt's right that it's generally not good practice to belay or rap off a single bolt, at least not when there are other good options available. I understand Alex's point that everyone should find their own comfort level without interference, but sometimes we need to try to keep the kids from killing themselves, even if it sounds annoying. If it prevents an accident it's worthwhile. Lucky, we appreciate the work you and others have done on new routes. While I won't go as far as Raindude, I do feel that placing a bolt is a permanent act of intrusion that should only be done after careful consideration. Does the line merit bolting? Will the bolt protect the moves intended? Is the bolt in solid rock away from cracks or other failure points? Is it placed so the direction of pull is in line with the strongest axis of the hanger? Does the placement minimize ropedrag? Does the bolt put rope, biner, or quickdraws in danger at a sharp edge? Is there a decent clipping stance? Will the route be too closely bolted? Too run out? Is there a good opportunity for natural gear nearby. And on and on. There is no magic formula. I've seen very experienced bolters put bolts in stupid places, and unfortunately, it brings down the quality of the resulting route.

Thanks for pics. X38 does get its share of yahoos. The combination of moderate grades, easy access to Seattle, and closely spaced bolts on many routes seems to attract them. They need mentors to help keep them from making fatal mistakes. Thanks for trying...

Fear not: tax cuts for the rich will cure all of these ailments, or so they would have you believe.

We went up Sloan on Sunday 9/11 and I accidentally left my helmet on the corkscrew trail. It is on SW side of the mountain, past the South Face traverse section and before the final scent to the summit. There is a bit of a dip in the trail there. Would love to get it back. Thanks! Rad

Nice work!

Sweet! fra = first rat ascent?

I was once convinced to get these two sizes too small and they were so painful I couldn't wear them. Perhaps one size would have done it. In any case, down-turned shoes seem best suited to micro-edging and overhangs. I find it really hard to smear in them because they are so stiff, and foot jams were excruciating. DHLA and the Grand (haven't been on your Ellation yet) are mostly smearing and footjams, so I'm not sure you need a downturned shoe there. But others may disagree. I like the Scarpa Techno for multipitch trad as it is pretty good at edging, thin jamming, and smearing. The shoe I love best and save for special occasions is the the Evolv Pontas. It's great at all of these plus heelhooks etc. Some may say shoes need to hurt to work well, but I find it hard to focus my mind on climbing when my feet are in agony. Whatever you get, consider buying at REI so you can return them if you are unhappy. Good luck.

COMMENTS IN BOLD "So specifically the routes are between Side Dish and (i think)Underground Economy. From left to right, one was a 5.6 slab/with a 10ish overhang second pitch." SOUNDS LIKE JIFFY POP AND RAT FACE. JP IS THE FIRST PITCH - RATED 5.7 BUT SEEMS EASIER. RAT FACE IS THE SECOND PITCH, RATED 10C. SUPPOSEDLY, THERE IS A 12B ABOVE THAT. "In the middle was an overhanging 11a." MAYBE THIS IS NEW. I'D LIKE TO CHECK IT OUT. OVERTURE IS AN 11A ROUTE RIGHT OF UNDERGROUND ECONOMY THAT CAN BE CLIMBED STRAIGHT FROM THE TRESTLE TO AN ANCHOR ABOVE A GIANT ROOF A WAYS UP. THE LOWER HALF AVOIDS A SCRAMBLE AND AIRY BELAY, BUT THE CLIMBING DOWN LOW IS MEDIOCRE. THE UPPER HALF IS EXCELLENT. "And to the right a 5.9 stemming route." THIS MAY ALSO BE NEW. I did see an old route up higher but couldn't figure out where it went. Someone has taken time to re-bolt several routes out there. Thanks and its about time. DITTO If anyone knows who has extra bolts and anchors to change them all out, I'm down for spending a few days getting em all done! Got a few friends who said they would help too. PM ME AND MAYBE WE CAN GET OUT THIS FALL.

The permit system helps protect a fragile environment from being trampled, trashed, and pooped-upon. If everyone believed they were above the law the loser would be the Enchantments. That's the party line, but I think it's also the truth. That said, I've done my share of commando camping (though not in the Enchantments). One of my guiding principles is that it should be undetectable in all senses - to policing agents, to other resource users, and to the environment (pack it ALL out). Discussing tactics on the internet is just plain dumb. You might as well post details about your next delivery of BC marijuana, IRS tax evasion techniques, and the like while you're at it.

Nope. I've seen pics posted here but don't have a link handy for you. If you're looking for something shady and away from crowds you could hike 7 minutes up the trail to these routes.

At 19, you're still immortal. Hopefully you'll survive that stage. I'm glad I did. I recently rented a Sat phone for a trip and had a good experience. I called in from peaks twice to say goodnight to the kids (not needed, but nice). I met someone on a peak who borrowed it to change a boat pickup day, giving them an extra day for an added adventure. I was curious so we tested in several spots whether we could get a signal. It worked on ridges in all kinds of weather but didn't work in the forest. A recent party on Shuksan could have prevented a helicopter rescue/assist if they had phone or other non-emergency signaling device - but then it sounded like they needed the assistance anyway. I haven't tried SPOT and am not tempted to buy one.

I'm curious if most or all of the groups that go to Boston Basin are climbing. Also, I don't understand why the trail is so crappy (I haven't been in a few years so am just going from reports from others this year). If the rangers are going up and down a lot and this area is popular, why isn't the trail better maintained?

Buddy of mine did the Sherpa descent about a month ago and he said it was steep hard snow downclimbing and a PITA to get past the bergshrund. It has likely only gotten much worse. Boadman has the classic late season option nailed. Have fun! The 5.9 pitch on the lower NR is really fun.

Nice trip. Maybe start a thread on suggestions for North Cascades rangers and permits - try to include both good things to keep and things that need to be changed. I or someone else can steer this to the attention of the powers there.

Style points scored. That billboard could spark a lot of interesting conversations.

Excellent adventure and report. These two sentences nicely capture the Pickets experience: "As usual, the crux of the day was not what we had anticipated." and "...constantly being challenged, mentally and physically, by no fall zones, weather, steep terrain and long days, along with very little sleep in the same time period was starting to wear on us."