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Everything posted by Rad
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Ditto on Gaia, but I'm not ashamed to admit my zeal for it. But I'd add another layer: study beforehand. Zoom in and out on google earth from different angles. Study the topo. Read TRs and note potential navigation problem spots. Recent photos can be particularly helpful to show crevasse orientation and length, sections of nasty brush to avoid at all cost, old growth trees to aim for, etc. You can take some of these photos and/or satellite images and load them on your phone to help when you're out in the field. This only works if you've studied the terrain beforehand as noted above. The result might be, "Oh, this is the big boulder at the bottom of the talus field, we should keep going to the trees on the other side...". "Ah, here is the first small creek, we need to keep going to the third one". "The trail should be on the far side of this meadow". Good luck. Practice in low consequence situations (e.g. foggy non technical terrain versus glacier in an approaching storm). Have fun.
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[TR] Slesse - Northeast Buttress (Attempt) 9/24/2016
Rad replied to ilias's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Sounds like a valiant effort and a wise retreat. But this, "we hauled up 4 liters each" is truly masochistic IMHO. I am someone who doesn't like to get dehydrated, but 4 liters is 4 kilograms, which is 8.8 pounds, not counting the weight of containers. That's enough extra weight to turn 5.fun into 5.work. Anyway, the mountain may yet dry out. Perhaps you can return and get your revenge. -
In retrospect this sounds like a trolling advertiser. Actually, I'm just an aging climber like the rest of you. My son's ultimate frisbee camp shirt was too big for him so I wore it a few times as it's Men's Medium. Wow. It was better than shirts I I've owned made by OR, Arcteryx, REI, and other companies over the past 20 years. And they're cheap and a local company in Seattle, though the shirts are almost certainly made overseas. See below for info. Only costs $25 and comes from five.ultimate: look here Wicks better than any other shirt I've ever owned, very soft, no chafing, dries super fast, resists snags well so far.
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We stashed bikes near the Burgundy trail, drove around and approached via Silverstar. Stay left out of shrubbery and then cross over in open terrain. There is really no bushwhacking on the approach. Then we descended down the W side and biked back to the car. Twas lovely and seems WAY less masochistic than carrying overnight gear up to Burgundy col.
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first ascent [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper
Rad replied to Rad's topic in North Cascades
A week ago nuts on all bolts were checked and tightened as needed. I hope to get up there before the fall rains fly and will check then as well. -
[TR] Mt. Index - North Peak - North Face 8/21/2016
Rad replied to BootsandPants's topic in North Cascades
Great story. Thanks for sharing. I'm still on the fence about whether I want to do this one. Some days I'm an eager masochist and others I am a sport climber embracing all the creature comforts I can find. Maybe the contrast between these makes each richer. -
Be the change you want to see in the world.
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My wife and kids and I are planning to hike from Cascade Pass to Stehekin and then take the ferry out on Lake Chelan. We will leave the car at Cascade Pass trailhead Sept 1st. I need the car in Seattle by the night of Sept 5th. If you plan to climb/hike in the Cascade Pass area I'd gladly pay you to drive our car back to the Seattle area. Alternatively, you could take the ferry in to Stehekin and backpack out via Cascade Pass (climb Goode or Buckner on the way?), and we would swap cars. So many good options! ~$50 sound about right? Or I can buy you a cam if you prefer. Otherwise I'll have be hiking solo on Monday back up from High Bridge to get the car and drive it home myself. I did that when we hiked in from Rainy Pass, so it wouldn't be the end of the world, but your help would be awesome. PM if interested. Cheers. Rad ps. Car is spacious, clean, and reliable. You'd either get our Sienna minivan or my wife's VW Passat.
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I'm not looking for partner, but if you're heading up that way check this out: My wife and kids and I are planning to hike from Cascade Pass to Stehekin and then take the ferry out on Lake Chelan. We will leave the car at Cascade Pass trailhead Sept 1st. I need the car in Seattle by the night of Sept 5th. If you plan to climb/hike in the Cascade Pass area I'd gladly pay you to drive our car back to the Seattle area. Alternatively, you could take the ferry in to Stehekin and backpack out via Cascade Pass (climb Goode or Buckner on the way?), and we would swap cars. So many good options! ~$50 sound about right? Or I can buy you a cam if you prefer. Otherwise I'll have be hiking solo on Monday back up from High Bridge to get the car and drive it home myself. I did that when we hiked in from Rainy Pass, so it wouldn't be the end of the world, but your help would be awesome. PM if interested. Cheers. Rad ps. Car is spacious, clean, and reliable. You'd either get our Sienna minivan or my wife's VW Passat.
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My wife and kids and I are planning to hike from Cascade Pass to Stehekin and then take the ferry out on Lake Chelan. We will leave the car at Cascade Pass trailhead Sept 1st. I need the car in Seattle by the night of Sept 5th. If you plan to climb/hike in the Cascade Pass area I'd gladly pay you to drive our car back to the Seattle area. Alternatively, you could take the ferry in to Stehekin and backpack out via Cascade Pass (climb Goode or Buckner on the way?), and we would swap cars. So many good options! ~$50 sound about right? Or I can buy you a cam if you prefer. Otherwise I'll have be hiking solo on Monday back up from High Bridge to get the car and drive it home myself. I did that when we hiked in from Rainy Pass, so it wouldn't be the end of the world, but your help would be awesome. PM if interested. Cheers. Rad ps. Car is spacious, clean, and reliable. You'd either get our Sienna minivan or my wife's VW Passat.
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Lovely. Such good memories. That crux pitch is out of this world.
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first ascent [TR] Hozomeen Mtn, South Pk - North Face, IV+ 5.9
Rad replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Wow. Nice. Sounds like a scary adventure on questionable rock with sparse and sketchy protection. You seem to have acquired a taste for those lines and ticked off a good number of them over the years. Glad to hear you had another grand adventure and came back to tell the tale. -
I don't know of anywhere where group size limits are less than 12 persons/stock (am I wrong here?). Getting a weekend permit for BB or the Enchantments on the other hand..... Yep, 12 is what sticks in my head too. I was assuming the group would be larger, but perhaps I'm wrong.
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Some areas, including Boston Basin and the Enchantments, have limits on group size. It may be best to avoid super popular areas and go mid-week to mitigate the impact of your group on other users and vice versa.
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Fabulous! Can't wait to visit!
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Road to Monte Cristo is toast due to landslide. How about Dosewallops in Olympics? Not sure how far back it goes past washout.
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Gaia is great in foreign countries too. I've used it in Canada, Costa Rica, Peru, Mexico, Czech Republic. I've used it in cities and in remote outdoor settings. It's a way to have map functionality without an expensive roaming data plan or dedicated GPS.
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Good piece. Climbers have been begging for sponsors for their adventures for 150 years. Social media is just the newest part of the marketing machine. There is nothing new or bad about this dynamic. Some people go out and climb/adventure without seeking attention. Some seek attention for various reasons. Neither is more or less worthy. They're just different. IMHO we should encourage those who seek adventure and are willing to fail. Adventure, in my book at least, by definition involves uncertainty. If the outcome were a foregone conclusion it wouldn't be adventure any more. If you don't like the media around these things don't click on it.
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So I've heard, which is why I'm not thinking too hard about anything more difficult than W McMillan. This trip is mostly about getting outside and chasing and maybe even some nice views and a summit! Then you've got the right attitude. Have fun and be safe!
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From my experience, the Pickets make their own weather. You can run into rain there when the rest of the state is clear. I'd hold out for a 100% chance of clear skies if your schedule will allow it. Thrashing through the brush and climbing on shattered rock is hard enough when it's dry. When it's wet it's a whole other animal, but perhaps part of the quintessential Pickets experience...
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Sid's right. There seem to be high density of folks in a few places. Mailbox on I90 and Lake 22 on Mtn Loop come to mind. In both areas there are plenty of other nice, strenuous outings you can do that won't be nearly as crowded. Scrambling is a great way to get some experience. Don't be fooled though, sometimes the unroped 3rd and 4th class can be just as dangerous as any roped climbing. Pay attention and be careful and you'll be fine. Learning to move quickly and safely over this terrain is key to being successful on bigger outings.