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I'll second crashes word. I climb in Freny XT on the cascade stuff almost all the time. The Trangos should go without prob. Crash, My XT's are great at the water, whatsup with yours?

Kodak no longer makes an Ektagraphic III projector. There is several others and accesories if needed. I use quite a few of these but they are all quickly going the way. If any of ya all desperatly need slide stuff I'm sure you can get hooked up.

Here's your first generic reply. I kinda like REI but dont go there for stuff if your a newbie. Go to a real shop where they have staff that know what they are talking about. There is a good place in Puyallup that would be closer. Next would be, don't but any of the specialized stuff and don't fall for the "buy them 2 sizes too small" line. As a newb get something that is as tight as you can wear comfortably with a good sole for edges. When you get better there is a place for thin painful shoes and you will know what your looking for. For a harness the Momentum is a good choice. The Momentum AL might be a good idea. Same as the standard but with adjustable leg loops. If you really get into climbing you may find that your legs change before the harness needs replacment. Here again go to a real shop that can help you fit the harness and avoid any "issues."

Your pretty much down to Alpine institute in Fairhaven (just south of Bellingham) or the REI in Bellingham. That's if you need much in way of supplies. If all you need is fuel there is a few places on the way in you can pick up white gas. I am not much of a canister type so never paid attention for them.

Hey mouse, it's only ok to wear shorts over Polypro if you tie them to your essentials. One other note to the route thing. If you do the C-D late season it gets pretty icy on the wall. It sometimes easier to traverse from the top of the pumice ridge and finish via the Easton. Of course if it's that bad there is usually some pretty big openings in the traverse too.

In the clove hitch idea I would need to mock up a sample. My initial thought is that it would take less of the cordelette to tie three biner clove hitches. On a marginal anchor I sometimes find that by the time I get the knot tied the angle of the anchor points is too large. If this takes much less cord It may reduce the hassle of extending stuff.

I can't say that I have fallen in with a #60-#70 pack. I have gone in with #40. I have also tried to arrest someone after they pulled me over while we both had packs. I didn't find the fall to be too bad. I found the arrest to be a bitch. It's a very revealing practice when you have some time and a group. Set up a bomber anchor and assign a belayer to "back up" your rope team. Start with everyone knowing when the "fall" will happen. Work towards the guy in back falling in at random with no one else peeking. My conclusion was that I would much rather fall without a chest harness than wrestle my way into arrest position when someone else is pulling me in backwards by the chest.

I like to have one on if there is much chance of going in. I can't think of a time when I clip in while walking. A practice session a while back showed me how much more difficult it is to arrest. I like having one on though as it makes resting while prussicking out much easier. Or if for some reason I need to hang out for a while.

Another Misconception. Last year during the floods around skagit county I received more than one call from concerned folks that were afraid that I would be flooded as well. (after all the San Juan Islands are close to the skagit river ). I mostly just smiled and said that I think we are fine for the moment.

That sounds like a good way to go. The reasons that I prefer to drop my pack onto the rope instead of my harness is; 1) with the pack hanging on the rope it steadies the rope and prussicking is easier, 2) with the biner sliding on the rope as you climb it acts as a pulley. That way you only prussick up against half of your pack weight. I would second Bills comment about clipping while breaking. I've been lucky so far but on more than one occasion I have met a ranger walking out with somebodies pack that had melted out after it took an alternate route down.

sirwoofalot, that's half of a great plan. I find it a lot more reassuring to use a little longer piece of webbing and hook your biner into the rope ahead of the knot to start with. That way when you go in you can just drop the pack. As to the chest harness. I would second useing a sling, If you need a harness hook on. when you need the webbing it's handy.

Just a quick note to those that are interested. I got home yesterday to The long awaited Guide in my mailbox. It looks like great work. Much larger than I had expected. I expect that it is available in other spots too. I think Dallas was talking about FF maybe carrying it. WooHoo

Careful there snaileye, next thing you know someones goin drag a stock car up slow children.

Hey Clint, here's one other thing for you to consider. I never have cramps when I climb I did however have cramps when I cycle. I went throught he same process of why. What I finally tracked down was that I tended to cramp when I far exceeded (>50%)my normal training level. In training you are teaching your body to attain a certain level. It's just saying your going out of bounds. I had good results in just varying and extending my workouts. The "mystery" cramps ceased. It may be helpful to keep track of which climbs you cramp on and how that compares with recent history.

For all you bike types this group is seeking volunteers for research. My favorite quote from the article is; the hardest part about climbing Everest " was pissing through six inches of clothes with a three inch penis."

So I was going to re sling some hexes this week. Went to several shops and even the REI had no 5.5mm tech. The search at REI showed like 6' in redmond and 30 in B'ham I could go chase down. Another shop told me that it was real scarce as all the spectra and kevlar were going overseas right now. Anyone out there know about this. Or at least got a connection for cord. Darn war is messin wit my climbin now

Ya longpause ya got that one. But one of the few things on my tick list for that road trip was to climb at City of Rocks and City of Rocks both in the same trip. There is another post a while back about my airheadedness making several trips to one while trying to find routes remembered from the other. Just in case your curious the closest resembleance is that they both have rocks. If you do happen to be in that part of the state I second Hueco Tanks.

So this is a question for the younger dads or moms out there. My youngest is out of college and they all grew up outdoors anyway. Now I have been chosen as the favorite uncle to take a nephew out on a hike. He's a good little 10 year old that has no hiking/camping experience. He would like to go on a great explore sometime in the next three of four weeks. I will pick him up in Issaquah and go ? I was thinking of one of the old mine towns or who knows I haven't been in that part of the cascades for some time, let alone with a little kid. Where would you go?

I havn't climbed in most of the state. Last year I was at City of Rocks. It is loads of fun. Tightley adheared tuft eroded into bizare shapes. Most all of it is 15-30 meters. Southwest corner of NM approximatley 25 miles north of Deming. I found the campground to be good right in the rocks with lots of space but then I was there in the late part of the season.

Joekania, that's good but I must differ. Video and Audio cableing is the main use for over/unders. Exactly because it does not induce a twist. Most people only coil that way if they are taught, this usually involves being taught to "use" as well so it is not usually a problem. However, if you coil a line and then by reaching through the coil grab the other end and walk away it will uncoil nicely and tie a overhand knot spaced a every other coil until you reach the other end. If you do the same with a standard coil it will pull free but induce 1/2 twist for each coil. Give it a try. The old time sailors used the same trick for making "climbing ropes" a line was faked down and then the end pulled and it tied a nice row of knots to climb up.

Thanks, I'll miss it this time but next trip will work out. Just means less stuff to pack on one trip.

Erden and Fern nailed it as to induced twisty ropes. One other cause can be in your coiling. This is where ropes bags shine. When you coil in a "mountie" coil you induce a twist with each coil laid down. These are removed when you uncoil but only if you do so the exact reverse of how you laid it down. This is not usually a problem but if your tendancy is to vary widely it gets noticable. Riggers that deal with wire vs textile rope coil in what is termed an over/under. This is where each one laid is reversed from the previous. Net result is no twists at all, but with this one if it is uncoiled wrong you tie a perfect row of overhand knots. If you continue to have problems a great practice is to purchase a fair piece of wire rope like the cheap steel clothline and coil it paying attention to how you are twisting your fingers. The steel is not pliable like a rope and therefore won't coil nice if you do it funny.

I have a business trip coming up soon that will take me right past the pinnacles. I usually stop there for lunch and a few routes as a good stretch from the drive. I seem to recall that the park was closed until spring after last years fires. Does anyone out there know if it is open yet or still closed?

So, you been workin on some stuff and now that you have a route the property owner they don't want a bunch of climbers comin in here! so YOu can climb but don't tell anybody. This brings up the whole chestbeat question. Are you....

Jack wakes up at home with a huge hangover he can't believe. He forces himself to open his eyes, and the first thing he sees is a couple of aspirins next to a glass of water on the side table. And, next to them, a single red rose! Jack sits up and sees his clothing in front of him, all clean and pressed. Jack looks around the room and sees that it is in perfect order, spotlessly clean. So is the rest of the house. He takes the aspirins, cringes when he sees a huge black eye staring back at him in the bathroom mirror, and notices a note on the table: "Honey, breakfast is on the stove, I left early to go shopping--Love you!" He stumbles to the kitchen and sure enough, there is hot breakfast and the morning newspaper. His son is also at the table, eating. Jack asks, "Son... what happened last night?" "Well, you came home after 3 A.M., drunk and out of your mind. You broke some furniture, puked in the hallway, and got that black eye when you ran into the door." "So, why is everything in such perfect order, so clean, I have a rose, and breakfast is on the table waiting for me?" His son replies, "Oh, THAT!... Mom dragged you to the bedroom, and when she tried to take your pants off, you screamed, "Leave me alone, lady, I'm married!" Broken furniture -- $85.26 Hot Breakfast -- $4.20 Red Rose bud -- $3.00 Two Aspirins -- $.38 Saying the right thing, at the right time -- Priceless.