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fenderfour

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Everything posted by fenderfour

  1. I bet he's talking about The Sherpa Glacier. Not a great descent option for the W Ridge.
  2. SCJB, I don't know how long you have been climbing, but you should probably climb more and talk about it less. When you first start climbing, we all think what we are doing is amazing and special. Once you know what you are doing, you realize how retarded you were at first. Seriously, you seem pretty proficient. Check out some of the moderate classics like the North Ridge of Stuart (CNR for full value), NEB of Slesse, or Liberty Crack. Stop playing pattycake on Mt Si and Mountaineer's basic routes, and more than anything, stop spraying about playing pattycake on these routes. Yes, we were all new climbers at one time. Yes, we all did the pattycake routes too. That's not the point. The point is, when we didn't know shit about shit we didn't spray about it or argue with people about it. Go climb something that will actually be challenging for you. then come back and tell us about it.
  3. This guy shot a reverso. http://www.geir.com/mythbuster.html
  4. P1 Dana's Arch is awesome. Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms is uber classic
  5. Size 11.5 does not qualify as "large". Slightly over average, maybe. Stubais are pretty wide and fit on my size 15's with the longer bar.
  6. "Climbing" does not require anti lock brakes. Take your "I'm better than a machine" arguments to spray please.
  7. I would poop YOUR pants.
  8. Liberty Bell Enchainment TR If you bring two ropes (think doubles or twins) there is no reason to worry about the intermediate anchor on Concord that I didn't see at all two weeks ago.
  9. I think it's listed as a 5.9 in Sky Valley Rock. Apparently there is/was a crack inside. I don't know for sure. I don't want to climb it.
  10. Someone would "booty" the carabiners. You will notice that the Climbtech biner is pinned to prevent theft.
  11. This is a little bit of drift, but... what do you think about using these as anchors attached to standard bolt hangers?
  12. I have always used small pieces of nylon as patches and regular barge cement to fix air mattresses. The key is clamping or putting weight on the patch overnight to make sure it is well adhered. Proper gluing is also key. Most cements require that you apply glue to both surfaces and let dry for a while. If you don't do this, the glue will not hold.
  13. Full disclosure: I post as Robert Fisher on Mountain Project. Yes, that disparaging comment is from me.
  14. punch him in the dick.
  15. Frost Powerdraws might be what you are looking for. http://www.frostworksclimbing.com/powerdraws.html
  16. A sewing pin works well, or you can get beading pins made out of SS. the flat head of the pin holds it in. Be sure to rough up the area that will hold the swage. It's not hard if you do it right.
  17. You can't ding the guy for not scrubbing something. What have you scrubbed lately?
  18. I had my eye on cleaning that myself! I'll work with you on that later this summer if you are interested. You were thinking about cleaning Chook? It was done two-ish years ago. it might need a touch-up. A couple of the adjacent climbs have also been scrubbed at Shady Lane. Last year we re-chopped a trail heading over there from the main wall trail. To get there: Head up the main wall trail, about 3/4 of the way up, you will encounter a steep broken face. The main trail makes a right along this face. To get to shady lane, head left and follow the face to some clean climbs. a dirty gully on the left end allows you to TR any of the routes.
  19. then it never happened Hesitation breads fear? Like deep-fried? Deep fried fear sounds awesome. Do you serve it with BBQ sauce or go with some bleu cheese salad dressing? FYI - when compared to climbing, the internet is a very new thing. In the old days, there was nowhere for intrepid climbers to spray about their mediocre ascents. The folks writing the books were wise enough to exclude some routes from the published guides for brevity or expense, or even spite.
  20. there is still something cool about getting on a route that hasn't seen a climber in 10ish years. There are some classic lines waiting for a scrubbin. Look at Free Range Chook - that shit is classic. Nobody cared because it needed a few hours of cleaning.
  21. It actually looks like it was a good hanger until it got whanged, I wonder what the story is. Given the abrasions, I would bet rockfall. It's clearly made of aluminum. Maybe even some hardware extrusion. Not what I would call "good".
  22. My advice is to buy a rope and go climbing.
  23. You're up. I hate to agree with CJB, but seriously. Too often I hear people say things like this. There is no committee for the cleaning of your favorite crag. There are no employees that maintain the place. It's you and me, spending a little time to make things a little nicer. Wire brush at Home depot: $5 a few hours of your time: free Clean start to your favorite route: priceless BTW - Rattletale is a handcrack. Sissies.... Bringing back the pagetop:
  24. Aid climb x2 , an do a lot of exposed scrambling.
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