fenderfour

What's the issue with the drilled angle? Sure it's weird, but it works well in sandstone.

Why does every hold look like a jug when he climbs?

It took me three tries before I finally got that route. Buy a hook and keep at it. More aid climbing = faster aid climbing = more fun. Part of climbing this route is dealing with the logistics of aid down low and free climbing up top. Besides, I'm betting you will find a couple more places that you will want to aid up higher.

I sound like a broken record, but go check out Private Idaho and the surrounding area. Magic Fern (index 5.9) has a 5.10b boulder move to start, then goes to a wide-ish 5.9 hand crack. Battered sandwich has a section of wide layback/jam at th ebottom (bring a #5). Peanuts to Serve you is a few minutes up the trail. It has a section of #4. While you are there, you can climb Them at Wall of 10,000 Insects. It's pretty darn wide, but easy if you lieback it. Hard if you jam it.

that's f*cking hilarious.

Let's not confuse "Bold" with "stupid". over the years, a bolt has less impact on the rock than subsequent pin placements and is substantially less safe. For a 5.13 climber to argue that a manky pin made the climb more exciting is kind of silly. If that were the prevailing attitude, I would recommend we strip all the bolts off any climb under 5.7, because I would be willing to solo them. F*ck everyone else. The pins will eventually loosen and need to be replaced, scarring the rock every time. One well placed stainless bolt will last longer than any of us will be climbing. If it's a 5-piece, it can be replaced without drilling a new hole 40 years form now when it finally corrodes. FYI - The linked Mountain Project page says the pin was replaced in 2009. It has already pulled out.

...f*cking society, always messing things up. Anarchy would have left your beers alone.

It is a failure on the climber's part, but it doesn't hurt to get the info out there to make sure other climbers don't make the same mistake. "You're not wrong Walter. You're just an asshole."

is just like spray, but somehow less intelligent.

All safety issues aside, don't you guys have your own forum now?

Not that it matters a ton but... We climbed Godzilla to the second pitch of City Park yesterday. There is a large pile of dirt on the ledge that could very well have forced the block off. It certainly could have been deposited after the block fell too. I don't think there is conclusive evidence either way on this one. Regarding P2 of City Park - it's still very climbable at the grade. I'm going to remove the dirt from the ledge next time I'm up there.

That's not beautiful. It's some guy's taint.

SLRs are heavy. How fit are you? Stopping to take pics with your SLR will piss off your partners. Are they ok with it? I would say those are a bigger concern than battery capacity since you can pick up a non-OEM battery pretty cheap at Amazon. One tip for battery life - keep the battery in an inside pocket and keep the camera outside in the cold. Use live view to frame when you can. It won't fog up like the viewfinder.

no. If you hump the middle of the cracks, it's super secure.

I stumbled on this. Freakin cool. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ve0rq7R1gUM&feature=related

Drilling is the easy part. Removing the old bolts is the tough part. Even old button heads can be tenacious.

There has been some discussion about fixing those hangers. Haven't gotten to it yet.

Both have a spicy start. Timberjack has pro, gorilla has a little less.

I will say to avoid the Bibler hooped and big wall bivies. They are not wide enough.

Timberjack is like a 5.8/5.10b. Bring big cams.

What is the aid rating of Thin Fingers?

Everyone on the internet is right, just ask them.

Are you high? You said there are a couple 5.9 moves. You voted 5.9+ for it on Mountainproject. Now, you say it was a 10b but you'll give it a 10a? What the hell.

It's 5.8 according to Cummins. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/itwrat.htm 5.10c according to Cash. http://www.summitpost.org/image/320307/236229/them.html There's a big difference between 5.9+ and 5.10c. Me thinks someone went for the jams instead of the obvious lieback

I also forgot about Index Air Force. It's a cruxy 5.10 that we scrubbed last year. It's to the left of Them. The top out is kind of crappy, but a fun route nonetheless.