matt_m

Ability to fall under control and a willingness to fall. A lot of "leaders" who don't fall will get into some trouble when they try to hang on for dear life, often resulting in a peeling tumble fall. Not good

pretty sure I've seen that in LCC and TM books. MAybe not though

But will the uniforms be softshell? crap - spelling fixed. Dru, proving once again he has more time than I (or most!)

Re: Catalog - how often does climbing gear change that devoting costly pages to a mail catalog is needed? Seriously the Mt Gear Catalog NEVER really changes (other than nice pictures) Why spend the $$ on such a small audience? Climber's will find the gear without a mail order print mag (which are much better at advertising seasonal item changes, yes just like EB, crate and barrel etc) Re Shitty Apparel Store: Hey, you may not like the fashion but all the people who continue to help REI hit record sales sure seem to. Apparel pays the bills. Climbing gear isn't a money maker - never was. Again, climbers are pretty smart (as a whole) and can figure out gear on their own. I've had poor service at all the small "true gear shops" in town too. REI people can be uninformed but I'll take that over arrogant or indifferent any day. Parking : South Lake isn't the same place it was even 5 years ago - Evidenced by the LARGE building developed across the street. It was no small secret that REIs parking could be poached FOR FREE all the time. (24 HR fitness would tell people to park there!) Problem solved... I shop all the local stores, REI, the net etc. Every option has positives and negatives - complaining that the outdoor market is growing and that the "core market user" is getting less focus is yelling into the wind. It's been going on for a decade or more. Not sure why this gets peoples nighty in a knot - we were ALWAYS a fringe group

I know Dru is baiting but I can't take it!!!! Muusstt Post... Cheater Stick = stick used to clip fix aid gear out of reach thus "skipping" the hard aid. Clip Stick = stick used to clip rope to first bolt where it's 1) needed because of bad landing 2) deemed to high/scary for climber* * = debate can rage on this of course one man's death fall is another's runnout. There are places where the FA MEANT the bolt to be clipped though... flame on edit to add clips sticks are fine with me in sport areas but I'll laugh at you if you show up at the apron with a 20 foot pole

Whitehorse is fantastic - and if you get tired of the slabs just keep walking around to the wonder wall area - Proud stuff over there too. In fact Whitehorse/Cahtedral is one of my favorite areas PERIOD

No idea, they still scare the bejeezus out of me when I use someone else's computer. I am a PC user though. PCs are cheaper and there is more software written for them. If there were more Macs there would be more Mac viruses. PCs are cheaper because you don't get as much - this myth was once true but now if you do a Dell vs Mac comparison with SIMILAR products (easier now that they use the same chips) you'll see the mac is even if not a better value. True, more programs are written for PC but if you're the average user (ie not Engineering or CAD - hell biotech uses Macs all the time) all you needs are fine on a Mac (Office, Internet, Email, music and photos) Many argue that Mac Office is better than PC Office. Only downside - Outlook and some other Microsoft Biz aps don't have MAc versions. Microsoft isn't dumb enough to port all of their Biz Cash cow to Mac... Really the diff is philosophical more than anything - That or ignorance...

Most peopel think GriGris are great - and for the belaying part they are. almost ALL problems with grigris occur in the LOWERING stage - that's what I teach at least. Here's to a speedy recovery

Not so! I saw 3 on the granite boulder near poulsbo just the other day...

Matt, I wind up having to just shut the F* up on all this stuff in the end anyway when somebody gets rude and tells me to just shut the F* up, so I probably should do it now, but here goes then I'm done. 2 issues, this book will be for people coming for a week or 2 of special vacation from say, Switzerland, or some equally strange place who only want to bang out the best climbs. You think they will figure out these insider nuances, but hey, they're Swiss for Gods sake. Won't happen for some folks. As far as this 1 description goes, he talks about the crux 13C tips, but then discussed 12D at the start and 5.10 to finish, no talk of what you are looking at with that. There could be 200 feet of 4" wide crack. When Watts first did it, he described the crux as very technical jamming. I could see Euros buying in to Teresngas description and bringin wide gear. Maybe not. But it seem rude as hell to assume everyone will just catch the little joke and not get F*in the ass IMO. I don't have a problem with JT generally, and I suspect he's a great guy in person: but I will say that in this instance, it seems like an attempt at an outsider to cash in on the internationalism of the place for a quick buck, and it will serve to concentrate people on the better routes, thus screwing over the locals. (Not that any dudes from Der Schweitz are complaining. ) I probably come off as quite the whinner there! Sigh: C'est la Vie! Not telling anyone to shut up - just voicing a different view. Completely agree that miss information in the wrong place is poor form. If he drops things like this on other routes that more people would try, yes it deserves criticism. I'll maintain however that a 13d trad climb has a VERY VERY limited audience and said audience wouldn't drop a lot of $$ on wide gear without further info (which, since trotters 04 climb is pretty available). This would be like beta on trench warfare saying 5.12d "The notorious 4+ inch offwidth roof crack. 40 feet of kick-throughs and fist stacks lead to a rest before the final section of... more of the same. Pro: lots of RPs oh and maybe some big cams. Classic."

Anyone climbing 13d will be experienced enough to read the "grievously thin" description and know about this famous route. The sarcasm is pretty thick there. People just don't like Thesenga (I'm not a fan nor am I a hater) Humor about a route that is unreachable for most (because of its thin-ness is amusing to some) To each their own.... Now if his humor causes confusion throughout the book - I'll be peeved too Get over the Supertopo - it's here to stay. Yes it can get a lot of gumbies on stuff they shouldn't and causes cues on some stuff but it's useful and liked by others as well. I've got limited time and don't want to waste it - Less adventurous? Perhaps, but part of the fun is pulling out a nice printed supertopo, watching to "hard party" roll their eyes when they walk up and ask deaming questions only to never see them again until they show up several hours behind in the parking lot. Last time I offered them a beer - They drank their words that day.

Follow up - went up Sat and the 20 POP was a total crock - it was raining steadily so the slabs were a no go. The wall looks good - vegetated in places but the rock is top notch. When this place dries a good brushing would turn it into a great slabbing say trip. Certainly more route potential but for the detritus up above - a few easier routes would make this a great crag-for-a-day-to-teach-slab destination. And its approach is EASY. C'mmon dry weather!

On the topic of stretching, does anyone have experience with La Sportiva Barracudas? Yep - they stretch a good half size - more than their Katana cousins.

Anyone been up the middle fork to climb or see Fee Demo? Thinking the cool and cloudy Saturday may be a good time to check it out. I may head up there regardless (32 is close by as a decidedly different alt).

I'll second this! I'm 6 even and J Gardens P1 feels easier!

It's that time of year - C'mmon! Roll the dice and pick where the best weather will be! Squamish on the West side or Skaha on the east? At stake - 4 days of climbing and either a 5 or a 7 hour drive. Place your bets!

I've asked about this as well - there's a form State Farm has to fill out - it's so dated and out of touch it's laughable. 1) they assume all cimbing means you're going to bag everest or some snow and ice route. 2) they things they ask clearly show they have NO IDEA about the risks inherent with DIFFERENT types of climbing 3) they assume gear is from circa 1970

I see 2,3,4 and 5 stars... Let's not cc.com armchair eithic this one to death....

I'll second this guess - I was looking at the roof where you paste you a** thinking how wild it was to be in a roof facing DOWN on lead...

I'll throw in a vote for Heliums and Spectres - they're the bulk of my rack biners now

Maybe it's me and some time spent in Europe but I think Via Ferratas IN THE RIGHT PLACES, are cool. They're certainly NOT all gumby ladders - some have quite a pucker factor...

Is there a way to hike DOWN to Midnight Rock from the road that takes you near the top of the ridge (forget name). Better yet - could there be a way to hike down? I've heard it's not worth it but want some confirmation before slogging up there a bunch this year. Yes, I know it's raptor season. Any official info on the 06 closures?

Heh - This old thread brings up a good question - Are there times and places where cutting down some trees is a good thing for the area as a whole? While touchy I'm sure I'd argue most definitely yes. Parks and other "developed spaces" have a lot of benefits vastly outweighing the small patch of trees sacrificed in their making. (Forests etc should still be protected, don't get me wrong here.) Good example: Index Walls. Obviously there's a lot of "growth" around the base that's a nuisance to climbers (lots of "weed trees" among the old, proud trees) We also have talked lately about the upper wall trundling issues and how increasing foot traffic in the area might help with this issue. Why not turn the lower wall into a "park" of some sort? Thin out the weed trees, landscape the area, throw some grass down and boom! Nice open park to visit, hike to the top from, eat lunch at etc etc - Crazy non PC idea? You bet

Led it last spring after one TR run. Grade definitely jumps when wiggling in the small gear every few feet (looks like an aid climb when you're done!) As much as I'd like to say it's 12a on lead I don't think it is. Compare it to Japanese Gardens full P1 (11d!) and they're not the same. There's a definite pump and pucker factor on it though (especially right near the top - hard gear to find and place) So... Easier than J Gardens (but I've heard people call that yosemite 12a) and even easier on TR - just like anything else... Great climb though! Side note: I got on Lingerie on the Mid East Wall and thought that would be a harder lead (I TR'd) because the start is VERY THIN with less places to stem - above it gets easier with better pro but pumpy nonetheless. Recommended (and Jihad! Awesome lead too)