needtoclimb

Trip: Mt Baker--North Ridge--June 14-15 - North Ridge Date: 6/19/2010 Trip Report: Having to scrap our original weekend to climb the North Ridge, my brother and I pushed our climb back a few days after the avalanche danger subsidised. However, this meant we would be running into weather issues. But I would rather be kicked off a mountain by weather than buried by snow. A quick hike in on Tuesday and we were at a melted out ridge at about the 6300 foot level. Our camp is the right arrow. A better camp is the left arrow on the ridge, about 6000 feet. Not sure exactly how to cross the Coleman, we roped-up and walked uphill to the flats around 6500 then headed towards the Coleman to attempt to scope a route through. We could see a bootpath crossing the Coleman and heading to the North Ridge, but we didn't know where it started. The coleman at 6500 became too crevassed with soft snow bridges, and we headed back to camp. We went down to camp and saw a tent below us at the 6000 foot camp. We went down and talked to the pair, who were also doing the North Ridge. They stated it looked like a path started right from their camp, and it did. From the 6000 foot ridge, head out towards the coleman to pick the best path through. Looking down at the lower camp. Kirt and I crashed for a few hours with a some clouds moving in, but woke around 8:00pm to clear skies and beautiful alpine glow. A large group had moved down below us, and the weather looked like it would hold for our climb. Kirt and I woke at 0130, and were hiking by 0230, which included losing 300 feet of elevation to the Coleman. We crossed the glacier easily, with many small crevasses that could be stepped across and a couple of large ones with snow bridges. We took a steep gully up to the ridge and were soon on it. This gully is not the steep, long one shown in most guides, but is left of it and appears to melt out by mid summer. Right now it is in and easy to ascend. No pics of it. Kirt and I started up the ice step with lots of time and high hopes. The clouds would move in and out, giving good visibility, but also showing that a storm was moving in far off to the west. Ice shelf above us. Unfortunately, here is where we let emotions control better judgement. All the beta said go left at the shelf. However, we wanted to check out another option; what looked like a snow ramp with an easy walk to it. Stealing a picture from Mitochondria, here is what we saw: the right arrow appeared to be an low-angle snow ramp over the ice lip. From lower down, it looked like an easy traverse from the left arrow rocks to the ramp. Boy, were we mistaken. We hiked up the steep snow to the rocks shown by the left arrow and took a break. Looking down from our break spot. The traverse was steeper than this. The traverse was very steep, requiring two tools and front pointing. The snow was styrofoam, but it was a long traverse, and about three-quarters over the snow turned from solid to snow cone ice. At one point I felt some small crystals hitting me from above, and hung tight as I was quickly barraged with ice marbles. I got within sight of this "snow ramp" and realized it was a couple inches of dinner plate ice covered by loose snow. Now I know why no one has gone this way. I went from First Ascentionist to moron in a heartbeat. I told Kirt this was unattainable, and the long traverse back to the rocks seemed..well..long. We instead tooled and frontpointed down about 400 feet until the slope levelled off and we could walk again. This little detour ate up over an hour, and the clouds were moving in. The clouds were rising quickly, and we made the decision to bale. We knew the route down, while up was an unknown in the approaching storm. A little after 0900, we were hiking down, and the storm caught up to us, dropping visibility to a few hundred feet. We crossed the glacier easily, and could now look down into the crevasses while it started snowing. We hit camp to find about an inch of new snow on the tent. We quickly packed, left camp at noon and reached the car at 1:20pm. We had the weather window to make the climb, but tried an unknown "easier" way than the right way. Moral of the story? at the ice step, go LEFT LEFT LEFT LEFT LEFT!!!!! p.s. The north ridge is in excellent condition right now. good bridges, kicked steps, good ice and snow. Other commitments keep me from trying until next year. Go get on it now!!!

what is this video you refer to?

I was just up there. No snow shoes needed, but expect to punch through a little later in the day. With an early start from camp, you can be back on the summit and back to camp on hard snow, and have just a little slogging (or glissading) down to the trail. Going up, lots of decent, punched steps to hike up.

Nice TR. I've wanted to go check that out too, but have always thought the same thing; better destinations. I'll have to go now.

0400 and no one called.

What he said. In the wide world of bolt-lameness, bolting next to cracks is perhaps the lamest of the lame. It looks like you had a lot of fun making that movie, though. MOMENTUM! Not sure if you have climbed this route, but I wouldn't trust cams in the crack, which more of a thin flake. A good full could bust the flake, but each to their own. Any of you want to go climb it tomorrow? I would love to see how it is led only with gear. Yes, I am calling you out. I can leave from lynnwood around 11:00 am tomorrow. Give me a call tonight, anytime, since I work until 0400. (I am driving out to index anyway tomorrow to borrow some gear from a buddy, so throwing someone else in my car isn't a big deal. I drive, you lead. Not sure if I can lead that route anymore, but would love to get a TR on it.) Kevin 425-802-3100 I don't mean to sound so harsh. Seriously, if you guys want to climb tomorrow, call me. My regular partners are working.

I was focusing on not peeling and dying. Heels schmeels.

Trip: Baker-Coleman ski tour - Coleman Glacier Date: 6/8/2010 Trip Report: With iffy avy conditions on the big peaks, Mike and I decided to do a leisurely ski tour up Heliotrope Ridge. We left Seattle area around 0330 and were hiking by 0600. The trail was snow free for the first couple of mile, than became spotty snow until hitting treeline. There we booted/skinned up depending on the snow. Snow was extremely hardpack, and quite icy in spots. Took our time, stopping at numerous places to soak in the views and the sun, and topped out around 7200 on the ridge looking down into Thunder glacier with Lincoln Peak rising above. Reached this ridge around 1030. Took a nice long break, removed the skins and had a killer 2500 foot descent that was over way to quick. Hiked out and was at the car by noon. Did not see any slide activity, but we were also off the mountain well before anything warmed up. Several parties were coming down from the summit around 1100, and several more skiers coming up to take some turns. A great, no agenda day. Booting up the ridge. skinning across to the ridge overlooking Thunder glacier Lincoln peak behind me Twin Sisters Range Oh, if anyone knows how to link to the larger images, I would love a PM. Some of these pictures are 1mb and have great detail, but have no idea how to link to them or expand them. Gear Notes: Ski!!! duh Approach Notes: easy and fast

Ok, that makes more sense. Yeah, finding the chairlift in a white-out would be a bitch, and if new snow covered the ski runs, would be hard to tell that you were standing on the ski slope. But my point was the map/compass thing. I think too many people believe that because they have a cell phone and MLB, skills are not needed, but that is a whole other topic. Whatever happened to self-reliance? Maybe I am just showing my age.

I have been in a full white-out on several mountains. I also know how to use my altimeter, compass and map to navigate in such conditions. When the clouds start to come in out, stop and determine your position on you map. You than take a bearing from where you are to where you want to go, and follow that bearing. I have done that. Or, coming from the last few posts, I am starting to see that the new trend of "oh my god, I have no idea what I am doing, someone rescue me!" is becoming the norm, even among so called "experienced" climbers. All this avy training, crevasse rescue, rope stuff is important, but I think many climbers are missing the basic skill of navigation. To prove my point, in the last few months I have hooked up with 3 different climbers from CC.com for 3 different peaks. All three times, I was the only one who had a map. WTF? No map? How do you go climb a mountain without a map? no map=no navigation skills=no chance in a whiteout. Look how many rescues are occurring because the person is lost. lost means you don't know where you are or how to get where you want to go. That is a skill called navigation, which mountaineers should all know. I'm not some elitist mountaineer, I just got lucky that in the Marine Corp we had weeks of extensive map and compass training. There are many guides/clubs around here that teach map/compass navigation, so anyone on a big mountain should have no excuse when some clouds roll in, especially down low around 8100 when you are mere hours from lodge. Its like getting lost on Muir Snowfield, inexcusable.

They got rescued at 8100 feet on Hood? You got to be kidding me. Follow the damn cat track down, or cut diagonal and follow the chair lift down. wow. Sorry, this stuff just pisses me off when people call for rescues due to their own ignorance and lack of experience. No one was hurt, so walk your ass down the mountain. OH, at great pics. thanks for those.

Emalclimber, This is the same advice I give to everyone stating "looking for someone to take us up Rainier." Are you looking to become mountaineers, or a one time, did that, summit of Rainier with no other real goals or aspirations after that? If you are the former, I say start smaller, gain experience and do Rainier on your own (independent, not solo) in a couple of years. Well worth the wait, and you guys will truly be alpine climbers. Want a killer, easy glacier climb? Start with Ruth Mountain in July or August. If your goal is a single summit of Rainier, then you are done with climbing, use a guide service. Yes, it is expensive, but really is your life not worth $1000? If you think differently, read about the avalanche that just happened. Independent soloist missing, 11 people buried, and the recurring theme is that guides dug out most people. I bet they have seen stuff like this, and are fast to organize rescues and searches. With a guide service like RMI, you know you are getting experienced guides. Finding some random guy on the internet is a lot like letting your 14-year old daughter pickout her first date through a chatroom...stupid. You don't know if you are getting a stud, or a flake who talks a good game. Your life is worth more than $1000. Work some overtime or a side job this summer, book a climb for next summer, and you will not regret it ever. Rainier can be a walk up, until shit happens. When shit happens (i.e. your internet "guide" plunges into a crevasse and is injured, what now? you are screwed) you want people who know what they are doing. The guide services know what they are doing. I am in now way affiliated with any guide services, I just get tired of seeing people try to take the cheap way up, risking themselves and others. Yes, others. when your team gets hurt, who do you think stops to help you? Thats right, the guided climbs stop their climb to rescue your ass, ending any chance of success for their team. Don't be that person.

I got my mountaineering start using RMI about 15 years ago. Best money I ever spent (it was around $350 then.) The first trip a storm rolled in, we sat in Muir, walked halfway across the Cowlitz and turned around. I loved it, had never done anything like that and thought it was the best experience ever. I knew going up that the summit was never guaranteed. T Their policy then was that if you didn't summit due to weather, you got a second chance the same year at half price. Booked another trip a month later (that was also when every trip wasn't booked a year in advance.) Again, storm rolled in, got up on the Ingraham, the guides said the Cleaver and Ingraham direct were avy prone, so we turned around. Two denials in the same summer, and I loved it! The second trip was better than the first! I learned a ton, including learning that i love the mountains. The next year, did RMI with my dad and brother, and we bagged the summit. Never had expectations to make it, but we did. Anyone who says to me "I want to climb Rainier," I tell them to use RMI. Safe, you learn a ton, and don't have to spend years gaining experience when all you want to do it climb one mountain and never climb another one.

I am hoping for good weather this weekend, and at the least my brother and I will ascend up to the Coleman and camp, and make a determination there. All this snow and weather is concerning me. I have a handful of screws, but apparently not enough. Big favour here, can anyone lend me a 4-5 screws for next weekend. I will supply you with your favourite 12-pack or liter. IF you live North SEattle to Bellingham, I will call you and figure out best time for me to pick them up. (my wife is pregnant, so after a couple climbs this month, I am done with technical stuff for a while. No point dropping several hundred dollars on more screws just for one climb.)

Thanks for the info. What type of rock pro? you talking nuts, blades or cams?

Heading up there next weekend, and looking for beta whether two ice tools are needed, or a tool and an ice axe. Right now I am taking two tools, but wouldn't mind saving the weight, and bringing the longer ax to use while traversing glacier. Anyone been up there this time of year and know?

Well, I did a little research and found that under Title 12 of the Rainier Climbing Code, under section 5.3 "sleeping", subsection A "tents", stated the following: All permit holders must sleep inside an approved shelter device consisting of walls made of nanotech, rayonlect, or potatosack material. Material must be within UAIISA guidelines determining thickness, snore-resistance and whitegas flashpoint. Unapproved shelter devices can submit a waiver by writing no less than 18 business days before the date of the climb, unless the date of the climb is a Thursday, then the waiver must be received 19 business days prior. I hope this helps.

Trip: Enchantments Traverse - Date: May 22-23, 2010 Trip Report: After a hard but successful summit of Hood via Leutholds, I knew I needed to get into better shape. What better than an Enchantmens traverse with the plan of hitting several peaks? Teresa and I orginally wanted to start at Colchuk Lake and come out Snow Creek, but only wanted to bring one car over. How to get from one trailhead to the other at the end of the climb? I took an idea straight out of the Josh Lewis Experiance: a bike! However, going from Snow Creek to Colchuck is all uphill, so we reversed it and stashed a bike at the Colchuck Lake trailhead, then drove down and started the hike Saturday, May 22 at Snow Creek. The hike in was under blue skies with a great view of Snow Creek Wall. After passing the wall we ran into this guy. He waited until we were five feet away before bounding up onto a rock and letting us pass under him. Nada Lake was still mostly frozen, and passing above it we saw these magnificant looking slabs. We reached Snow Lake and found a spot mostly snow free, dug it out a little more and had a beautiful site. Next morning we rose and started the long trek up into the Enchantments Plateau. This was slow due to all snow and no trail, so we picked our way through the trees towards the top. As we climbed, our blue skies faded into a mass of swirling dark clouds and threatened to obscure our first peak; Little Annapurna. By the time we found a decent site at the base of Little Annapurna, it was windy and snowing. Wanting to summit Little Annapurna, we looked up and it was completely engulfed in dark clouds. Instead, it was time to tent. Being only 3:00 PM, we set up the tent determined to wait out the storm and summit when we had visibility. Six hours later, we were still waiting with an inch of new fallen snow. It was off to sleep with the sounds of snow hitting the tent. At 5:30 AM, Teresa and I were lying awake, looked outside to see blue skies above and three inches of new snow on the ground. We rushed out to climb Little Annapurna, forgoing coffee and breakfast until we got down. An hour later we were on the top. View to the north from the summit (and my favourite picture.) The background is Enchantment peak: View to the south: Prusik Peak: However, those pesky clouds were reforming to the east, and by the time we were back at the tent making coffee, the summit was engulfed and light snow was falling. We packed and started walking towards Asgard Pass with the plan to drop the packs there and scamper up Dragontail. However, Dragontail was never visible, just more dark, ugly clouds. Striking a pose near Asgard Pass: We reached Asgard with no break in the clouds and an increasing wind, and still lightly snowing, so oh well, no Dragontail. Down the Asgard we go, which was a bit icier and steeper than I thought it would be. Note to self; on an icy slope, do not step on a glissade chute! I landed on my ass faster than a mouse on cheese, but arrested myself and got back onto unpacked snow. The rest of the descent was uneventful. Teresa and I reached the lake and crossed over a section of it. It was still very frozen in the middle, but some of the edges were melting out. Our plan was to camp here and climb Colchuck in the morning, but the clouds showed no signs of letting up. Colchuck and Dragontail will have to wait. Deciding that the weather was not our way, we hiked out instead of spending the night, and reached the trailhead two hours later. We met a ranger coming up to do trail maintenance, and he stated the weather was only supposed to get worse. That made me feel better, as hiking out became the right decision. The hike out: At the trailhead, I got the bike and zipped down the dirt road to the pavement. The paved road was even faster as I didn't have tire-devouring potholes to deal with. I retrieved the car, retrieved Teresa and an hour later found myself eating burgers and Oreo shakes at 59ner Diner. We only climbed one of the three peaks on our agenda, and cut the trip a day early, but it was still great fun. Gear Notes: Snow shoes were handy for the Plateau. Still lots of snow up there.

went to the rcnw site. Thanks, has lots of good info.

As the title says, looking for beta. Want to go check it out, and looking for any information, including how to get there. Looking for climbs up to easy 10's.

what about a candle light vigil at Greenlake first, to remember Kathy the Block?

Anyone been this way yet?

Mt Rainier, in perfect conditions, is not that hard of a climb. It requires very good endurance, and a little rope management, but people have simply followed up a guided rope team for ages and successfully summited. I know of several people who have done this, solo, and they have no skill at all. I consider them lucky. And therein lies the problem; simply following a guided service. Doing this in good conditions gives a false sense of competence as one can now claim "I climbed Rainier" without really knowing anything about climbing. It leads to mistakes on much smaller peaks that don't have a boot track leading up to the top. If you think your skills are competent, you shouldn't need to ask this question to a bunch of strangers. If you are looking for validation, then maybe you aren't prepared as you think? No one else can really say whether you are competent or not to climb Rainier. You need to make that determination. And how to make that? Definitely not under a perfect blue-sky, boot-tracked, ladder-placed ascent of Rainier. Ask yourself, if there was no one else on the mountain, would/could you do it? Because if you are caught in a white-out, then your team is alone. Ask yourself, if there is no one else on the mountain and no boot track (which can easily be obliterated by a little falling/blowing snow the night before), can you navigate your way up? If one of the party goes in a crevasse, can you get him out? If someone slips and breaks a leg, can you get him down? If you feel like you can do all these things, then you don't need to be here asking if you can do it. Just go do it. You should not be counting on the fact that there are other people there to make up your lack of skills. If you can't do all that, or wouldn't even contemplate climbing if there was no one else on the mountain, please learn some skills to be self-sufficient, or take a guide. I would hate to read about you in the paper because a white-out rolled in, and you walked down the Cowlitz and ended up in a crevasse. If your whole goal is "to climb Rainier",then no one can stop you from following up a guide and decieving yourself that you are a real mountainer. However, if your goal is to become a climber and be competent where other people look to you for guidance, then start smaller and become that person. Make Rainier your goal for next year. This year do Hood, Adams, Baker and any other climbs. Learn navigation, self arrest, crevasse rescue. Hope this helps answer your question.

I am glad they got out okay, would love to hear the first hand story of heating soup in the bottom of a crevasse. That has got to be a first. On the flip side, why do people insist on climbing during winter storm warnings? The Tuesday storm was well predicted, NWAC and NOAA both stated huge snows/winds/avy danger. I cancelled a Shuksan ski ascent due to conditions, and went for a simple day hike instead. I would like here from more people who have climbed during these conditions, had epics, and hear their thought process on why. Is it failure to read weather reports, the "can't happen to me" attitude, or a pure lack of understanding what climbing a mountain involves? Anyone been rescued wish to give a decent story, stating how you were rescued, why, and where the conditions that caused you to be rescued? (as I read all the rescues over the last few years, it seems like 80% are from bad judgement. A few are true accidents, projectiles coming off mountain or freak storms, but most seem so preventable.) I would see this more as a learning experience for all reading the posts, then a spray "you are so dumb" type of post. So if someone is willing to state their rescue, please no spray, just legitimate questions so we can learn how to avoid those situations.

changed post, open for any eastside hike on Monday. have car and willing to drive