ken4ord

So anyone know where there is step by step diagram for rigging an equalette, I like to mess around with rigging one this weekend. This rig seems pretty cool ACR (alpine cock ring)

Well that wasn't what I was expecting, but pretty damn funny. That dinosaur seemed pretty happy. I thought it was Barney and prostitute photo shoot scandal. I wish I could find it.

Real martini's are not faggy at all. I find that I end up putting them back faster than whiskey and tequilla. Which mean I get more f-up usually. Wetspot I don't think I'll be mixing my Ten or Saphire with some juice, but damn Waragi is definitely palateable with some juice. (Waragi = local gin, not half bad for cheap gin, but watch out the next day) btw- I skipped the martini last night and cranked out 2.5 hour mountain bike ride in the dark. Left at 8pm back at the house at 10:30. It was killer with 1200 foot climb, but great view of the city and da herbal made things quite interesting on the way down. I think the martini is waiting for Friday, since tonight another workout.

:tdown: Yeah, some how you all have managed to ruin what could be a good thread, by getting on all this drivel evolution and shit that I didn't even bother reading. Seahawks, your a fucking downer, you suck.

Hell yeah man!!! That looks sweet. I know after we are done here we are looking at Southeast Asia for work. IT would be sweet to be close to that. Thanks, for all the pics.

Don't be fooled by fake pills, offset Metolius weights, girth hitch to your dick and be amazed.

Alright Muffy, let's hear some..... Well for myself, unlike Pink, my ex never posed the question 'leaving warm pussy for cold crack'. There was several times where we made use of the crotch zips in our gore-tex to get in a mid-climb romp in the snow. It was a very nice way of breaking up the pitches on the climbs.

Note to self..... I like dry dirty martinis, I spray glass with vermouth (with a spritzer), freeze, shake gin with olive juice (the dirty part), pour, spray top with vermouth, 4 nicoise olives (the hell with spanish or other types of olives, though I have no choice these days). You also have to drink a decent gin, Saphire, Tanq or better. Saketini's are good too, 3 parts gin, 1 part unfiltered sake, shake and pour into frozen glass. Good starter for a sushi party. About as fruity as I will get with a martini is, Tanq Ten stirred over ice squeeze orange juice in glass, pour out and freeze, pour T10 in glass with orange twist. Hmm, maybe I will have to have one of my six weekly drinks tonight.

No it is not, give it a freaking rest.

Alright I think this old dawg needs to learn some new tricks, meaning me. So with all of this discussion I decided to blow off work this afternoon and look at the info out there, well then saw so much drivel out there, I decided to ask a frined of mine in the rope manufacturing industry that I respect and I know is always busy testing shit out. Here is what he had to say: "Yeah, lots of hate and turmoil was created by that whole cordelette BS. Basically the deal is that the traditional cordelette method that everyone knows and loves doesn't equalize worth a damn. The majority of the load will always land on one piece, always. Even when tied so as to orient in the anticipated direction of the load it will not equalize as the shortest arm will always reach its peak extension first as it has the least potential elongation. It doesn't matter what the material is, the ratios of load will always be distributed the same on any given set up. It is not a dangerous matter unless you are concerned with the integrity of the pieces that make up the anchor. There used to be, and probably still is, concerns of 'shock loading' with sliding X but in reality shock loading is a myth. As long as you are tied in with the rope shock loading does not occur. The problem is extension and the possibility of the belayer crapping their pants and losing control of the brake. So there's been about a hundred proposed systems, 99% of which are worthless. Here's my take: use the traditional cordelette method if you are totally confident the pieces are bomber. Use sliding X's when they're suspect. There are some decent rigs that people came up with but I haven't tested any of them. The simplest system is called the 'quad' and is perfect with 2 bomber pieces. The next one is what was named the 'equalette'. The 'equalette' is difficult to explain but you can find all kinds of diagrams in RC.com."

It doesn't bother me if someone is watching, though when I first got into climbing I used to get all nervous and it bothered me back then.

Well I will be back from August 15 to September 3 or 4th, then back for a few days September 11 to September 14. If it works out that would be great. Ken

Hmm, I think I would make the following adjustments: * Top Roping = First time sex * Alpine Climbing = Good sex, wild and uninhibited, anything goes * Sport Climbing = Well protected sex, it can be good, but not as much sensation because of the condom * Bouldering = Definitely is masturbation * Ski Mountaineering = Fun fantasy sex, like hot nurse fantasy or french maid or police woman as long she doesn't use the billy club in appropiately * Free Soloing = Agree, sex with a stranger, can be good, but you can also end hooking up with a scary stalker * Ice Climbing = S&M, love it but hate it at the same time * Dry Tooling = B&D the lighter side of S&M * Gym Climbing = Gang bang or orgy, a sausagefest with hopes of hooking with one of the few chicks that are there.

I'll bite, IB, in September - on gear only. Kevin, you should get in on this... I'd be into trying it, should be some good heady climbing at times.

Pink, I guess this is the first time I can relate to you. My biggest problem in the past especially with gf's that don't climb is that when I am in the mountains I want them, when I am with them I want the mountains. The ideal situaution is to have both.

Bill- I agree eveything has there ups and downs, with your system is good, I sometines use it when swapping leads and especially when I use double ropes, though I don't use an 8 on a bight, but instead I use girth hitches. Marko- the only time I use a double sliding X is if I don't have enough cordage to tie at least an overhand, though I don't like doing that for the reason that CBS mentioned. Jay- thanks for the post and link especially since Dru is too lazy to put something up for the sake of this discussion. I will have to check it out.

Well if you don't mind cutting your rope down for bailing or throwing around a big block for an anchor, then I guess you got a good point. Now that I have been carrying cordelettes on my rack, I dont bring as many slings (10-12 slings and draws total). Again someone please explain a way of building a solid and truely equalized anchor, that is faster than clipping each piece, pulling a loop down inbetween each piece and tie. With slings and draws I was always girth hitching slings together, then doing sliding X or X's depending on how far the pieces were apart. I have found that sometimes I even prefer my cordelette for bolted anchors, I double up the the cordelette, girth hitch to one bolt, clip the other, pull and tie. You have an equalized anchor only using one carabiner and cordelette.

Damn right, that is awesome.

Never Never Man!

I would like to know the answer to this question too, hell if I can make things simpler trad and alpine climbing, please let me know. Also sliding X is not the same as a properly rigged cordelette, you still end up shock loading the remaining pieces if any pieces blow, though the friction in the twist does reduce the load slightly.

It seem like Ia m one of the few taking this seriously, well somewhat. This week I was feeling healthier and was able to exercise. Also my appetite came back. I was a little bad this weekend drank a few beers and had a big dinner party, where I chowed, but no net gain or loss for this week. Start 196 Last week 184 This week 184 I set a new goal too, instead of 180 I am going for 175. I don't think 180 will make my spare tire go away, hopefully 175 does.

:tup: Way more expensive than it used to be, but still a great town.

I guess it would work for me for a second night, but most of the time I think I would prefer Guiness in a can for single night stays in the mountains.

As soon as my girl is walking I am building her a mini-climbing wall, I figure she can get all the holds I don't like. I have taken friends kids out climbing as young as two.

Almost eveytime I go mountain biking I have some type of small accident. Last time was twoo weeks ago (last time I was on my bike), I slipped off of a 7 foot high terrace, luckily it was a soft landing. I have only wrecked a few times on the road.