ken4ord

For myself I never let it get to bad where I had to do anything more than gett the therabands out and the little mini 2 lb. dumbells.

Why don't you all shut the fuck up, just think you could be living in Kigali, Rwanda.......

Ken from I know you've been climbing awhile and I dont need to go in to detail of how tape works but this mark guy said within that context I said dont tape, get strong get healthy with correct warm ups and go easy on the holds at the beginning of your sesh, dont rely on tape to take the place of building tendon strength. Agreed, that is why I put in clarifications of 1. taping correctly and 2. continuing pulling hard on pockets and crimps before muscles and tendons strength is developed, that it won't do any good.

Recumbants are for old people who are afraid of falling down and breaking a hip. Seriously, they are a pain in the ass, becuase of extra cabling usually the gears and brakes don't work as well. Wheels need more work than normal bikes because it is dificult to lift up over bumps, this mean more hub adjustment and truing of wheel. You are more limited in the amount of stuff you can carry. It is also hard for vehicles to see you on the road ways, so there is more of risk of getting hit. Finally they are way more expensive than traditional bikes. No need to reinvent the wheel, at least yet not until they come up with better designs.

I've gotten some mileage out of gear. But the plans I have for future escapades will require more training. Arch Practice makes perfect for those sexcapades. Keep on practicing. Sweetheart, a little BDSM lesson for you: Training: Either referring to a short period of time (a scene) or an ongoing effort of the Dom/me teaching the sub how to act. Can either be a playful thing or a serious thing, depending on the couple. you gotta be kidding... I don't think she is.....which got me curious about the plans for future escapades?????? Do tell......

Well no change from last week, still at 184, still 9 to go. I got to get serious again this week. No beer or brownies this week, I think that was my down fall last week. I figured that I could get away with last week since I bouldered 3 times, ran twice and mountain biked twice, but it doesn't seem like it was enough.

:yawn: I guess if it floats there boat........

Saturday- Simone and I went to cafe and had breakfast, grocery shopped, set some new routes on the bouldering wall while she played with toys in the lawn, then we went for a run walk up a nearby hill with her on my back. Mom was a at conference all weekend so it just me and Simone. Sunday- I got a baby sitter so I could do some mountain biking, took Simone swimming, then hung out and listen to music and baked cheesecake brownies. Good relaxing weekend.

Dropping coils from great heights can be difficult depending on the harness and pants you have one. Shwacking Digging a snow cave in a raging storm at elevation after a 15 hour push. Sleeping in a tent when the winds are so strong that the poles are pushing down accross your head.

My favorite field trip was at the end of the school year our sophmore class got to go an amusement park, north of SLC. We spent the first half of the day amusing by get blazed for the first half of the day. Then rest we were going to spend it riding roller coasters. The first one was a double looped roller coaster, I had never been on one before because I was scared of heights. Between being really stoned and peer pressure, I managed to get in line. I just remember being scared shitless, screaming my head off on the first descent and through the two loops, after that though I must have been over it cause we kept on getting on one ride after another.

chicks with picks? yikes

Yes it can. Better quality rock for one.

There you go again man, as long you keep telling them that it is difificult to learn to place and remove gear, they'll buy it. I don't believe gear climbing is really that difficult, it is more common sense than anything. Yeah I agree part of the attraction is that it is simpler to sport climb than it is to gear climb, but you make out to be that it is really difficult to learn to climb with gear. Retailers I think would prefer to see more trad climbers as there is more equipment to be sold vs. just a set of draws and rope. Another part of the attraction to sport climbing is that it is cheaper set up inorder to climb outside.

I would suggest that some of the crack-bolters are sport-climbers who don't know how to climb cracks. Crack climbing is an art that takes practice. Given that a lot of sporto's are gym-graduates, many probably don't have the appropriate skills. Last time me 'n "pope" went to a gym (some place in Seattle), there was a just a little section in the giant complex with a hand crack. We walked right up this thing and most of the gym-rats stared at us like we were a couple of aliens. Not only aren't the sporty masses trained well (or at all) for cracks, they're not trained well to place protection. They learn, in the gym and at the sporty crags, that clippin' bolts is "how it's done". Crap like this is why I find myself defending the gym person more than the "old school tradie" I learned "pre-gym" for the record and go out of my way to teach the kids that climb in my gym about gear, natural climbing ethics style etc. Unlike raindawg, who seems to think a holier-than-thou, demeaning attitude is the answer to his "issues", I try to be positive and encourage the "newer generation" to see, do and respect all types of climbing. I climbed with them at smith (the spawn of the devil area to dawg) - got on the bolted climbs with them, had a great time and they were psyched. Then I said - lets go do these cracks. Guess what, they had a great time and were psyched. Now, they respected my views and as time goes on, I'm able to share my thoughts on grid bolting (negative) slab climbing (positive) etc etc. Guess what? two just started racks and asked when I was heading out to index next? Weird huh? Now imagine if I called them un-skilled sporto gym rats and mocked their abilities while praising my own. Yeah, they'd ignore any advice on ethics or anything else and the rift would grow. Great way to improve climbing knowledge and respect of the natural way. Stop being part of the problem. Well said Matt. I have experienced the same thing. Most people I have met in the gym who are learning to climb in a gym are interested in trad climbing, but sometime think they would never be able to figure it out or thinks it is dangerous. Sometimes all it takes is some education (taking them out on gear routes, showing them the ropes) to get them into trad climbing. Or you can call them a pussy, and pretty much be sure that they will put their money toward a bosch and set of draws.

I tape between the knuckles not on so that I don't restrict movement of my tendons through the pulley which are near the joint. As far as dong more damage than good, I would disagree. Taping can be done right to help support and reduce chance of injury, though if you tape and keep on the crimps and pockets before you muscles and tendons have become stronger, then yeah you can still expect problems. Again expect soreness after working out, but like jared said if it lasts and is continuous and ongoing (longer than 2 day after workout) then definitely seek medical advice. Tendon injuries suck, I partially tore a pulley and was out for months. Though it was outside on a natural route vs. being in the gym, it didn't make it any easier staying away from climbing for months.

Hmm, the other question I just remembered was that in the diagrams show the power point with two locker biners, a single locker per strand. Couldn't you just put a twist in one of the strands and similar to what is done in the sliding X?

So were you surfing for dino porn and this is what popped up? (No pun intended)

I disagree the on the portaledge and staying tied in is more difficult, though some of the new harness's with drop or detachable leg loops simplifies things considerably. With crampons it is not that difficult, unless you are foot person. Who is guilty of using their climbing equipment not for climbing???

I can be that person sometime, though a bowl at every ledge might be a little too much under normal circumstances. My favorite is at the end of the day either at the base of the crag or on the summit, ah yeah.

Vodka for mixing or getting started. Double of freezer kept vodka is good way of getting started for the evening. In general, I find because vodka's very little flavor, they are good for mixing. My favorites for vodka drinks are shots ( i made up a few the other day for a sluge that kicked ass), black russians (a favorite stand by drink that gets me wound up), vodka&juice (good summer drink), vodka tonic (another good summer drink though I prefer gin tonics especially T&T) and lemoncello ( I can't buy it here so when the meyer lemons are in store, I make my own).

dry toolin'

Hey Ken, lay out your cordalette, start at the center, tie a couple of overhand knots a couple of feet apart, and then tie off your pieces with clove hitches. Seems to take about the same amount of time to rig as a cordalette if you've already got the knots in the middle. Alright now I am seeing it, though I got a few more questions. *First about how far apart are people setting up the knots in the center? *All the pictures I have seen have been 4 point anchors. Setting up a three point would probably be set up the same way though one of the arms you would not have to use clove hitches? I would think that setting a three point anchor would change the load ratio would be 50% on the single piece arm and 25%/25% on the arm with two pieces?

It sounds like you are over doing it a little if you have only been climbing for a couple of months. After a work out you should expect some soreness and stiffness, after all you are strength training your fingers. I would suggest the following, try getting in more often like CBS said and shorter work outs. Make sure you are properly warming up, I usually start with a few minutes of aerobic activity, these days a brisk 15 minute walk or something like that to get the blood flowing, start with very easy routes, streching and taking your time through the moves, then after a few of them do some stretching. Since you are new I would try to stay away from crimping, though it might not hurt when you crimp it may be the source of your disconfort. Also stay away from fingery pocket problem. If you do decide to crimp using tape on your finger to support your tendon may help, make sure it is not too tight though and inbetween the joints not on the joints. After 17 years of climbing my fingers are sore sometimes after my workout when I have been climbing on crimpers and pockets or after a particularily long session, after all you are working out. If I notice that it is my tendons that are bothering me then I easy back up for a while and not climb so hard until they no longer bother me. If it is my finger muscles then I make sure that my muscles have recovered by the time of my next workout.

So anyone know where there is step by step diagram for rigging an equalette, I like to mess around with rigging one this weekend. This rig seems pretty cool ACR (alpine cock ring)

Well that wasn't what I was expecting, but pretty damn funny. That dinosaur seemed pretty happy. I thought it was Barney and prostitute photo shoot scandal. I wish I could find it.