ken4ord

Dude...if you're trying to grab bragging rights for a big wall by climbing that dirty deed up on Mt. Garfield, I don't think you're going to get much support...maybe you can impress one of them pad people or them folks in the gym. And ditto if you want to call yourself an "alpinist", or an "alpine big-wall master" because said dirty-deed is located on a mountain. Kevbone to Gym Rat: "yo, yo, sup, so I climbed this alpine big wall last weekend...yo...you payin' attention? I said "BIG WALL", little man!" Gym Rat to Kevbone: "Big Wall? Is that the route with the red tape?" I have to agree, if I can take a newbie up it to the top of IB (her 5th time climbing outside), I would hardly consider it a big wall or that difficult, tiring yes, especiall the rapping. I liked Joseph's description of big wall, not something rising away from me, more looming above me making me feel really small, is what I consider a big wall.

No it is not ghey, but sort of pervy, since all this talk about twins being out and about.

Yes folks just when we thought it could get any worse on the highest mountain of the world, lighting the way of the future.

i will mostly be good next week but i might have to climb a little bit so i can show you what i mean when i start explianing the finer points of the hand jam :moondance: i climbed 4 routes today but yesterday i went to the barefoot sage and spent the whole afternoon getting a foot batch and a foot massage. P.S. this has been the best birthday week EVER!!!!! Naughty is Good Glad to hear you are getting out and feeling better.

I think you can also find that sort of mentality in the cascades as well, take for instance the Mountaineer trip planning. Where your at though, I think it is mainly due to the laidback nature of most Europeans. Most of my friends here are Euros and it is so funny to try and talk them into a 3 hour drive to go climbing for the day. To them if they are going to drive 3 hours, then they should spend the night. Me I would rather push a hard long day, and enjoy a nice comfy bed at home, good food and beverage.

Hell yeah, I love both of those routes, looked like a great day out 512. Mythos and Gary, thanks for the info on that variation, I will have to check that out sometime. Hell maybe this fall.

I am on my way........I wish. Looks like a great day out in dem hills. Super jealous.

Holy shite! What I want to know is if you guys can't find each other in a small park how do you all manage get in all climbing that you do?

I second the mutt. I had one and he was the best. Pure breds IMO are a waste of money and not pure by any means. I am not sure how we got the idea selective breeding is pure.

What hell man....be real your going to carry this shit on alpine route or the crags?

Having gone through 3 helmets due to crashes, I will gladly pay $100, because I know they work. The last wreck, I almost got knocked out, instead of be drain bamaged. The biggest problem with helmets, is that people who use them don't know how to wear them properly. I can't count the number of people I have seen with their helmet backwards, straps to loose or their helmet riding so far back it might well be a neck guard. The main difference in the higher priced helmets is that they fit better and have better ventalation. IMO fit is really important for a helmet to be effective. Sherri, it not the cars that you hit it is the pavement. Most road accident I have seen involve loose gravel, train tracks or wet pavement. I am more concerned about these things on the road than I am the cars.

But she so cute right now!!!! I know she'll turn into Satan's spawn when she gets older, I just can't picture it.

I haven't tried crucifix, I think having one of them in the house would keep me away from the house. Garlic won't work she likes it too much and now that she can stand one of her favorite pastime is to see if she can get away with hitting the full size mirror in the hall. I guess I am screwed.

Very interesting, so the Kong device works strickly by friction, and other devices don't? Well I don't know about you but when I am belaying with a Gri-gri using my 9.5, I actually have to lock off or else the rope will slip considerably. If I use my 10.5 hmmm, walla, it doesn't slip so much not so big of concern. I am sure the friction is exactly the same between to different ropes, the device must have mind of it's own. Sheath texture, diameter and conditions don't have any effect on friction, hence why we can say that once a little over 7kN is applied the rope will slip.

Damn those were some funny clips.

:anger:What!! No pictures!!!! I need more guidance than that. Yeah......I am not sure if I could ever get enough guidance to make fat sex work for me........eeeewwwwwhhh!!!

Yeah I got to that as well, though I don't know how to baby proof walls. Simone recently discovered paint chips, our mud brick walls are getting a little old and crumbly.

I have never thought of black flies being on the West Coast I thought that was an East Coast thing. Looks like you didn't get hit too bad. I lived out East and have experienced the wrath of black flies. My friend I went out one day, during the height of black fly season. I shit you not, I had blood running down my neck from my ears, Craig had two patches on one leg that blood was flowing from. Both of us got infections from the buggers, Craig wsa laid up in bed for about 4 day with swollen leg that he couldn't walk on, me my ear lobes puffed out and were twice size they normaly are. Living out there I found out that black flies taste quite sweet. I was in a crux one time and I had a sucker biting me on my shoulder, I turned my head and bit the bastard back, not even thinking about it twice.

Don't hate the player hate the game. Hey a 20 mile bike ride is much better than nothing at all. And you got movie theathers, ice cream, watermelon gazpacho, southern slaw dogs, not fair at all. For munchable item we had the bbq at the embassador house for cold burgers and very boring company (note to self: missionaries and diplomats have no life outside of God and the USA). One good thing is they did have Corona and lime, but damn fuck me hard with no lube at $4 pop.

I once again had a pretty damn good weekend. Got out and did pretty damn hard ride, I was wishing I had my armor and full face helmet so I could have really gone for it on some of the steeps I found. Still a good time, the pic below is on the easy relaxed part of the ride, pretty much back in town. On the 4th we headed out to Eastern Rwanda to do some exploring, we found some great boulders and small spires. I will hopefully go back out there soon before I head back to WA in mid-August. So my weekend was a little of this: And a little of this:

Pitches 15-17 could benefit from a single bolt if solid rock was found at the mid-point. As for adding bolt for protection, it is freaking 4th class terrain. Yeah lots of exposure but are you really going to fall on that terrain if you can climb 5.10?? If you are freaked by the exposure, belay out to the start of the 17th with two ropes. The same can be done on the descent lower out the inexperienced climber and pass the knot and then get a belay for the down climb (walk).

I agree RuMR, and also agree about CBS tool part too. CBS saying that a ATC locked off will put 2-3kN force on the rope and Gri-gri will put 7kN is rediculus. Basically you are saying there is no affect on how much the belayer moves and the diameter of rope. A skinny rope will slide a lot more than a thick rope, decreasing force put on the rope, no matter what device you choose to use. Like RuMR said learn to properly use the device you have.

Hell yeah, that is good use for it. Over here most people use the larger pieces for fencing or furniture. Small thin pieces are used for brochette's (shikabob). A friend of mine that had a house on Lake Kivu would use babmboo for the main mast on a makeshift sail boat. We always kept some on hand because inevitably we would break the mast when the winds were good.

What are you up to this weekend? Give me a call on my telephone. Definitely use the telephone, her ESP is down.

Yeah I probably got enough wool samples for ya on my velcro gloves.