kurthicks

Yea, I'll ask John about it. Kind of forgot about him...he's done everything out here.

LD Climber on Fat Albert (5.7ish)

What else would you expect? I was at the stadium after all. I did bypass the obvious ledge, hoping for the integral ascent. It was getting dark, but we didn't spend a forced night out, opting for instead. Maybe I'll have another go at it today. From the picture, I was one jam away from the send.

I'm out...I'm going to be in the Three Sisters this weekend for work . You should do "the Fin" while you're down there. ~10 pitches up to 5.7. Approach it on the left side, follow the obvious "sidewalk" out onto the arete, then climb to the top. walk off left. Kurt

Climb: Martin Stadium-Crack Route Date of Climb: 8/29/2005 Trip Report: For years it's been passed by, unnoticed to thousands of Wazzu students and climbers...until today. But there it was, begging to be climbed in all it's glory. The approach was a brutal 4 minute affair that included stopping by the Climbing Wall to get shoes and crash pads. We then proceeded to get lost and had to negotiate a vicious fence that blocked our progress. But we knew the battle would be won. Upon arrival, we deployed pads and began to send. We tried laybacking, but the fall looked pretty scary onto the hardest of concrete and asphalt. Jamming it was. And it was GOOD! Tight hands widening into perfect hands. The climbing felt like solid 5.9 or low 5.10. A slippery coating of algae in the top three feet prevented the FA today, but we will return and it will be ours! Who says there's nothing to climb in Pullman? Gear Notes: 2 crash pads Approach Notes: football players

Looks awesome Chris. J'Berg's arete looks a lot more unpleasant now than a month ago. Good thing you have the approach memorized now...I hear the NW couloir calling!

Just to clarify, I would say that NYC's climbing is solid at the moment, not his plans.

no luck Jason. sorry.

freaking republicans.

you can score free new antibots from petzl.com though. good deal on those pons.

it depends on how you access the mountain. camp lakes side requires no permit. I forgot about the Obsidian area though.

it is not a limited area. just be sure to have a wilderness permit on ya.

That sucks Jason. I'll look through my stuff (I haven't unpacked yet) to see if you stuffed it in there by accident.

Quite professional. Be careful about getting paid. It brings on all sorts of legal ramifications (permits, insurance, etc). Especially if someone was to get hurt (I doubt you have a $1,000,000 or higher insurance policy). As for making it a career, don't bet on it. Most guides would be stoked to earn $75/day every day, but it just doesn't work like that even after taking a number of AMGA courses. Usually, you bust your ass 3 months a year and dirtbag the rest. Looks like fun times though.

Western Mountaineering Bighorn -30 bag for $100. w00t!

The Sawtooths are sweet for alpine rock & backpacking. You can get topos at the Elephant's Perch in Ketchum. You can also mountain bike in the Boulder-Whiteclouds... it's a little bit of a drive though.

we took a half dozen nuts, green aliens to a 3.5", but i would go only to 3" because of the fixed #4 camalot (even the 3" is optional, if you sling the chockstone at the bottom of the offwidth). a 60m half rope is nice. it all depends on your comfort level...

From the gendarme the travese looked wet in spots on Saturday. No word on the down climb difficulty.

Yes, aluminum pons were fine. There is still some seasonal snow on the upper part of the glacier, but ice down low where steel pons would be nice (if you go low like I did). Take an axe or 3rd tool. John, we smoked the Cascadian in less than 3 hours! (the NR in 5:20 and the car-to-car was 17:45) with a fair amount of rest breaks.

Thanks. We found that out on Saturday. Thankfully we had brought them with us.

Nice to meet you guys. Sorry about your filter.

It seems like the family might have known about rockfall if they've been climbing for 3 generations...

We saw two other parties on it on Saturday (all of which topped out within 10 minutes or so), plus one group that appeared to be starting the complete ridge.

Last I checked Stuart is in the Alpine Lakes.... someone want to move it? Thanks Jason for the great day in the hillz! My legs are still feeling the love from the Cascadian. I think a 3.5 is totally overkill for the offwidth, it's easily protected with a 3--if you bump it up once.

What's the status on crampons/axe for the glacier?